365 special to 372 conversion

[Lanedrew]

I’m sure this is a topic that’s been discussed quite a bit over the years, but I’ve got a super nice 365 special that I’d like to “convert” to a 372, and it’s the non x torq older model. Just wondered what all parts would be necessary to properly do this, want to try to keep the factory air filter and low top, but I wasn’t sure if the 365 carb would work or if I would need a different carb, just wanted to see what folks recommended as far as Piston and Cylinder kits that would work best and the best carb upgrade option, thanks!

 

[Woodslasher]

I'm trying to recall, but I think a p/c and possibly an intake boot/clamp/base are all it would take, the latter only being needed if the saw has an intake block.

 

[sean donato]

Should just be the 372 top end is needed.

 

[steele_109]

If it has a zama carb you may want to get a walbro.Its what comes stock on a oe 372.

 

[Gord404]

Some of the specials had an oddball boot on them some didn't so you may need one of those, cylinder, oem if you can get a decent price for them but most of the time I use Metior or Hyway with a meter piston or at the least a caber ring with Hyway, stay away from cheap China knockoffs.- Mind you I do a little tweeking to my cylinders because i am setup for it.

 

[gurwald]

Better keep the 48mm cylinder if you plan to use a hyway/meteor or any other am cylinder.

 

[farmguywithasaw]

Some of the specials had an oddball boot on them some didn't so you may need one of those, cylinder, oem if you can get a decent price for them but most of the time I use Metior or Hyway with a meter piston or at the least a caber ring with Hyway, stay away from cheap China knockoffs.- Mind you I do a little tweeking to my cylinders because i am setup for it.

I did one a while back 52mm with a pop up hyway seems ok

 

[farmguywithasaw]

All I needed was the cylinder

 

[Gord404]

Better keep the 48mm cylinder if you plan to use a hyway/meteor or any other am cylinder.

Why is that ?

 

[gurwald]

Because am cylinders are less than perfect, a 365 close port cylinder are very good, strong, made to last, not made in china.
I can see no reason to put any am cylinder on that saw.
Even a oem 50mm wont make much of a difference, but if you can find one for a good price try it.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Because am cylinders are less than perfect, a 365 close port cylinder are very good, strong, made to last, not made in china.
I can see no reason to put any am cylinder on that saw.
Even a oem 50mm wont make much of a difference, but if you can find one for a good price try it.

But what if you do not live in Sweden, or the United States of America?
Here an OEM cylinder kit is going to cost me North of $500 and a Meteor same size is going to be a touch over $200- what do you suggest then, especially if bolting it onto a $100 parts saw chassis and not making a shelf queen but a working saw?

 

[huskihl]

But what if you do not live in Sweden, or the United States of America?
Here an OEM cylinder kit is going to cost me North of $500 and a Meteor same size is going to be a touch over $200- what do you suggest then, especially if bolting it onto a $100 parts saw chassis and not making a shelf queen but a working saw?

I’d say save your $ then. If you don’t have the money for oem, you’ll just have that much less when the AM cylinder scores itself from being out of round or the plating flakes off and takes the crank with it.

If you need it to cut wood for $ or heat, that’s different. Gotta do what you gotta do. But the AM big bore stuff doesn’t usually run any better than the smaller oem cylinder they took off, so it shouldn’t be done with an upgrade in performance in mind

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

I’d say save your $ then. If you don’t have the money for oem, you’ll just have that much less when the AM cylinder scores itself from being out of round or the plating flakes off and takes the crank with it.

If you need it to cut wood for $ or heat, that’s different. Gotta do what you gotta do. But the AM big bore stuff doesn’t usually run any better than the smaller oem cylinder they took off, so it shouldn’t be done with an upgrade in performance in mind

It was more the OEM V Aftermarket options, was not so much the 2mm step up I was aiming at and I was talking if coming from a non serviceable original cylinder.
Plus I would have to say in my experience I have never seen a Meteor (note I only used Meteor above to compare) loose the cylinder coating.

 

[steele_109]

I can buy a oem cylinder kit 50mm for 230.00.From husqvarna it will be a 371 single ring piston, mahle 2 ring kits are mostly nla.But if you order from parts tree you will have to wait because they order them from Italy.You can find them on ebay sometimes but the last one was 300,00.But me personally I won't run after market period, not in 372.

 

[gurwald]

But what if you do not live in Sweden, or the United States of America?
Here an OEM cylinder kit is going to cost me North of $500 and a Meteor same size is going to be a touch over $200- what do you suggest then, especially if bolting it onto a $100 parts saw chassis and not making a shelf queen but a working saw?

They are the same price in Sweden, I buy used/parts saws or from ebay.
Dont know prices now but I got a xpw 51.4mm new cylinder kit for 150$ 3 years ago, 400$ at the dealer.
If your 1 saw breaks down and you have to stay cutting then you are out of options and have to pay overpriced AM or OEM...

 

[Gord404]

Meteor is made in Italy and has been in business for 71 years and Hyway is made in Taiwan not mainland china junk but prefer to put a meteror piston in the Hyway or at least a caber rings and I do a little cylinder work on them befor I put them on mostly squish and a lightly ported mufler but my shop is setup for that kind of work and yes I agree that unless this work is done he will have no real gains on his 365 unless the cylinder and piston and rings are worn or damaged.

 

[tmillthetreekiller]

I’m sure this is a topic that’s been discussed quite a bit over the years, but I’ve got a super nice 365 special that I’d like to “convert” to a 372, and it’s the non x torq older model. Just wondered what all parts would be necessary to properly do this, want to try to keep the factory air filter and low top, but I wasn’t sure if the 365 carb would work or if I would need a different carb, just wanted to see what folks recommended as far as Piston and Cylinder kits that would work best and the best carb upgrade option, thanks!

Hey all,

I just picked up a 2166 for $200 bones did a fair bit of research sounds like a killer saw I’m trying to replace my 261c-m since it’s a total lemon! Hopefully I made a good buy she seems to run good anybody have an opinion on these j-reds

 

[farmguywithasaw]

Hey all,

I just picked up a 2166 for $200 bones did a fair bit of research sounds like a killer saw I’m trying to replace my 261c-m since it’s a total lemon! Hopefully I made a good buy she seems to run good anybody have an opinion on these j-reds

Basically the same as a Husqvarna 365 x torque which is 71 cc

 

[tmillthetreekiller]

I’ve never ran the red but looking forward to seeing how well it rips

 

[Snojetter]

Hey all,

I just picked up a 2166 for $200 bones did a fair bit of research sounds like a killer saw I’m trying to replace my 261c-m since it’s a total lemon! Hopefully I made a good buy she seems to run good anybody have an opinion on these j-reds

I paid $450 for my 2166 which looked practically brand new when I got it, and I thought it was a great price. I don't often need a 24" bar, but I picked it up for those once or twice a year occasions. I'd say you got yourself a killer deal. Enjoy the saw and you'll look much better running red than the orange version!