Break in question?

Great site! Lots of knowledge displayed here, thanks all.
My question regards the references to the correct break in process for a new saw( just bought a 357xp).
If some of you in the know would give your opinions on best procedure i would appreciate.

I usually just run my first three tanks a little rich, I.E. Turning the high end needle out.

At our shop we run 1 tank of fuel threw it and tach it to factory specs and then let it rip. We use opti 2 mix oil to break it in as it is not a synthetic base oil. most mix oils are synthetic so be carefull read the label first because if you use synthetic it will never break in.

John W

Howdy,

I have a pet procedure for break in of a brand new saw:

First, I make sure I have the best possible gas and mix oil as per the factory recomendation exactly.

Then I fire up the new saw, avoiding an initial race for just a minute, and make sure it is set for reasonably correct idle. Then I check the high end, very briefly not to adjust.

Then is set the saw in a previously made bore cut in a stump or fence post, and let it set there and idle for several minutes, observing on occassion to see if it is loading up at idle. If it does, (most do) I take it out of bore cut and rev it up enough on highspeed to clear it, and to check the high end setting, should blubber a bit. Definitely do not let it scream. Then I put it back in the bore cut, and let it idle out the tank.

On the second tank, I check the high end and make a cut or two. Important not to work the new saw continuously right at first. Heat is the big enemy. A really good quality saw will be a might tight and hotter running as brand new. Looser saws, are made figuring most people are not going to break them in correctly. I take the breakin very seriously.

Personally, I follow the same procedure even if someone has brought me a new Poulan or weekender Husky. (A few folks around here do, just to be sure they get off on the best foot. I give a lecture about fuel and storage, and guess what? Those people do not have trouble and the saws seem to last indefinitly).

The correct thing to do with an 026 Pro Stihl, according to Stihl, is to have the dealer rejet the carburetor for this elevation. (2,500 - 3,000 ft.) Personally, I don't like this, as it will be too lean if someone takes it to the coast. I'm testing that suggestion from this forum about substituting Tillotson HU40b. I am having some Stihl pros do this on the sly. (I'm sure Stihl would have a hairy fit).

Regards,
Walt Galer

Breaking her in gentley..

JW,
How long does it take to break one in? Is it one tank under load and in a log or at idle? I really don't know, I just go by the way the saw cuts (usually seems to be about 2 carb adjustments and 10-20 hours of cutting till she really rips). I try not to run her wide open until I get thru at least one tank of fuel. I have noticed most of my saws require adjustment after only one tank when new out of the box. You "break in" saws for your customers? Now that's service! Thanks,
Sean

Sorry about that. Walt slipped in w/ most of the answers to my questions while I was typing! Is it true? Can he really read minds? If so, he will find me an easy read lol! Still interested to hear what you have to say on breakin' in a girl JW.
Thanks,
Sean

Howdy Seesaw,

Sorry to butt in on you like that!

As for the breakin procedure for the gal, it is the same as for a saw: You idle it first and then rev it up! Keep both eyes open however, as the kickback can be brutal.

Regards,
Walt Galer

Walt, I wear my Peltor gear religiously in both circumstanses regardless. She has reservations at first but safety is always a good idea!

Thanks all for the input as always I'll do a print out as I have a great but short memory.