new granberg small log mill

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

jkupcha

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2008
Messages
76
Reaction score
2
Location
Southern Jersey
Hi guys
I just recieved my mill today! Really excited to use it. I'm shopping craig's and local garage sales for a used stihl I can cut with. My question is do you think just to try out the mill and until I can snag a bigger saw, I can hook up the echo 440 I have? Just to try a small 12" diam log?
 
Hi guys
I just recieved my mill today! Really excited to use it. I'm shopping craig's and local garage sales for a used stihl I can cut with. My question is do you think just to try out the mill and until I can snag a bigger saw, I can hook up the echo 440 I have? Just to try a small 12" diam log?

For sure, just be careful of it heating up. Do you have a ripping chain?
 
No not yet. I do have a brand new chain for the echo I just bought at the HD. I plan on going super slow. Just doing this because I'm like a kid at Xmas and wanna play. Just wanted to get an idea or not if I would do any damage to the echo. You know for the money, the echo has been a good saw. Takes 5 pulls to get it going but it just runs and runs. Just not enough power for milling. I heat with wood and have been cutting 4+ cords every year with this guy.
 
No not yet. I do have a brand new chain for the echo I just bought at the HD. I plan on going super slow. Just doing this because I'm like a kid at Xmas and wanna play. Just wanted to get an idea or not if I would do any damage to the echo. You know for the money, the echo has been a good saw. Takes 5 pulls to get it going but it just runs and runs. Just not enough power for milling. I heat with wood and have been cutting 4+ cords every year with this guy.

I really don't know what an echo 440 is but you can try. But when cross cutting you are going to need ripping chain. Of course you can try with regular chain but you mush be very careful not to heat up the saw because you will if you go to far. Better question would be, do you know what ripping chain is? If not I will direct you to some.
 
You know I've been reading this site for a couple months now and it seems there is honest disagreement on whether a ripping chain is really all that effective. Someone even posted that Bailey's stopped selling them for that reason. Now I know everyone has there own opinion, but I thought since I'm just getting started that I'd try going low budget at first and if things work out then graduate to upgraded equipment. Thanks!
 
You know I've been reading this site for a couple months now and it seems there is honest disagreement on whether a ripping chain is really all that effective. Someone even posted that Bailey's stopped selling them for that reason. Now I know everyone has there own opinion, but I thought since I'm just getting started that I'd try going low budget at first and if things work out then graduate to upgraded equipment. Thanks!

As long as you know. Good luck. Post some pics!:cheers:
 
Ripping chain is a generic name for just about any chain that has a top plate angle that is less than the common 25-30º toplate angle as used in cross cutting chains. The top plate angle used in ripping chain can vary from about 15º downwards.
Theoretically rip chain can provide a
1) smoother finish and
2) less chain vibration since the cutter does not dig in as far sideways as regular chain and should
3) a slightly thinner kerf which should lead to
4) less strain on a saw and
5) faster cutting.

What I find in reality is that 1) and 2) are correct, especially 1) if a semi-chisel chain is used. If you want to see extreme chain vibration try starting a rip cut using the full extent of a 60" bar with a regular top plate angle chain - the bar oscillates up and down about +/- 1/4" in the middle from this effect and makes for a messy start. The anti bar sag device really helps keep the bar steady in this regard. Chain vibration is less obvious once the bar is buried in the wood because the bar prevents this extent of vibration. Dropping the top plate angle to 10º makes a big difference and it feels much smoother all the way thru the cut. This effect is generally less noticeable on smaller bars.

3), 4) and 5) are less obvious because the kerf difference is very small. In addition a low top plate angle is also cutting woodfibres fully at high angles so the cutting action is mostly chipping, whereas an angled top plate has some slicing action which helps cut fibres. Chipping requires a very sharp cutter so as soon as the chain goes slightly blunt, rip chain is definitely way slower. This is compounded by users that buy new regular chain and gradually convert top plate angles cannot always sharpen their chains as well as a new chain so reckon the rip chain is way slower.

Another key factor in chain sharpening is keeping the rakers at the right depth and this is not a constant depth (eg 25thou) below the cutter. The wider the gullet, the lower the rakers should be. By the end of a chain's life my rakers are 45 - 50 thou below the cutter. Then you will see the rip chain can cut closer to as as fast as regular chain.


You can mill on a regular basis with regular chain on a small saw - thats what I have dome with my 50 cc plastic homelite with a 20" bar for several dozens of shortish hard logs. Like adkpk says, I wouldn't push it on long logs but if you take it easy it can be done,
 
I run regular chain and it works fine 36" bar/chain running regular top plate angle (25 degrees) with a solo 681, the finish is suprisingly good. You should be able to use your echo 440 for milling small stuff. I've used similar saws before in a mini mill on 10-12 inch cuts 8-10' long, but its not very fast.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top