how to mount degreewheel on dolmar 6400

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polkat

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I know it may seem like a stupid question but how do you guts mount the degree wheel, the only way I can think is to get the bar stud off and mount it on the rim and sprocket. I tryed to tap the stud on the flywheel side but to no avail I snaped the tap off and put it away. this did work on the other 6400 that i have but i just thought that there must be a better way. any suggestons thank you
 
My plan for my Husqvarna is to pull the flywheel nut and install a custom made spacer with internal threads. I hope to have it done soon and will work on posting pics.
 
Not sure about the Dolmar but on some saws you can mod a flyweel puller to hold a degree wheel.

I've also used a few dabs of glue to attach a degree wheel. Just make sure it is centered as the glue sets up.
 
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In the past few days there have been a number of posts about port timing. I would guess the most popular method to measure port timing is with a degree wheel. I thought I would do a how to on setting up a degree wheel, as once this is done the rest is easy.



The earlier questions were posted in this thread, and this thread.



First, strip the saw to the point that allows access to the flywheel and the spark plug hole.

I then thread the Stihl flywheel puller into the flywheel.


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/41385771@N03/4450698248/" title="puller by zweitakt250, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4021/4450698248_4b95b6526e_b.jpg" width="750" height="500" alt="puller" /></a>


Second, attach a pointer wire to a solid mount on the cases. you don't want this to easily move.


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/41385771@N03/4450699664/" title="wire by zweitakt250, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2664/4450699664_57dc04ccc1_b.jpg" width="750" height="500" alt="wire" /></a>


Third, attach the degree wheel to the puller(pic3). Look through the plug hole and put the piston at approximately Top Dead Center, position the wheel near 0°(pic4), then lightly snug the clamp bolt. I use a large degree wheel as it allows a higher level of precision than a small wheel. A 4.8" wheel made from a CD has about .04" between degrees. The 10.8" wheel shown allows .095" between marks. This same concept is why you will see auto racing engine builders use 36" wheels.


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/41385771@N03/4450701184/" title="wheel by zweitakt250, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2772/4450701184_144d0146a5_b.jpg" width="750" height="500" alt="wheel" /></a>


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/41385771@N03/4450701820/" title="near top by zweitakt250, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4009/4450701820_7842eac6b3_b.jpg" width="750" height="500" alt="near top" /></a>


Fourth, rotate the crank slightly ATDC and insert a piston stop. The stop is necessary to find TDC. After the stop is in place rotate the crank back toward TDC until the piston rests against the stop.


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/41385771@N03/4449929671/" title="stop by zweitakt250, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4042/4449929671_d1a05b5065_b.jpg" width="750" height="500" alt="stop" /></a>


Fifth, Read the figure on the degree wheel and make a note of it, some math skills will be required. You will notice that I have sharpened the pointer so that a more precise measurment may be made.

54° here.


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/41385771@N03/4450703316/" title="stop2 by zweitakt250, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4038/4450703316_405e5d2f45_b.jpg" width="750" height="500" alt="stop2" /></a>


Sixth, rotate the crank around until the piston rests against the stop at BTDC. make a note of this reading.


52° here.


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/41385771@N03/4450704000/" title="stop3 by zweitakt250, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4005/4450704000_7f8da0f6f6_b.jpg" width="750" height="500" alt="stop3" /></a>

Seventh, here is where the math skills are needed. Add the two recorded figures together, then divide by two. The result is the point at which this particular piston stop holds the engine before or after TDC.

(54+52)/2=53°

You can see that it was close to begin with. If the original locations had been 66° and 40° the result would be the same.

(66+40)/2=53°



Eighth, while holding the flywheel still with the piston against the stop, rotate the lightly snugged degree wheel until the pointer is on the number that you obtained. Tighten the clamp bolt.

Rotate the crank on around until the piston is against the stop. It should read the same BTDC as it did at ATDC. If it does then the wheel is indexed correctly. If not, then repeat the procedure.


Now when you place the wheel on zero the piston will be at TDC and port timing measurements can be made.


<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/41385771@N03/4450704714/" title="TDC by zweitakt250, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2781/4450704714_04462a18b4_b.jpg" width="750" height="500" alt="TDC" /></a>


I hope this helps.




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I know it may seem like a stupid question but how do you guts mount the degree wheel, the only way I can think is to get the bar stud off and mount it on the rim and sprocket. I tryed to tap the stud on the flywheel side but to no avail I snaped the tap off and put it away. this did work on the other 6400 that i have but i just thought that there must be a better way. any suggestons thank you

No need to remove the flywheel. Just install the wheel on the clutch side.
 
I use this set up on almost all saws. It will work on either the clutch or flywheel side.
 
thats what I wanted to see thank you thank you

Your welcome.
The only time I use it on the flywheel side is I get an outboard clutch that is on super tight. Rather then fight with them I just pull the flywheel.
Later
Dan
 
Here's my first setup.

Old plug tapped for a 3/8" bolt I use as a piston stop.

attachment.php


CD with a printed degree wheel and a bolt in it.

attachment.php


I remove the flywheel bolt and slip a piece of rubber line on the crank stub.

attachment.php


Now it just needs a pointer.

attachment.php


This setup works fine, but as always could stand improvement so I ended up using a metric bolt as the arbor in the wheel and have found a thicker than stock nut for the flywheel. Now I can just thread it together without the rubber section of hose. I found it to be too easy to knock it out of kilter with the rubber connection.
 
Your welcome.
The only time I use it on the flywheel side is I get an outboard clutch that is on super tight. Rather then fight with them I just pull the flywheel.
Later
Dan

Awesome idea Dan, good to have you on here posting. I may have to machine something like that up for my next saw.

Thanks allot

Will
 
Awesome idea Dan, good to have you on here posting. I may have to machine something like that up for my next saw.

Thanks allot

Will

Will
I made that arbor at least 8 years ago. Sometimes my ideas work, sometimes they don't. I used an Allen head set screw that locks it fast to the crank with the same size head as most Husky and Stihl screws. My plan was that I would not have to keep changing Allen wrench's when I worked on the saw. That part was fine. My dumb one is the knurl on the arbor. I thought it would be a nice feature to hold while I tightened the outside wing nut. The problem is I cant get my hand between the case and the wheel to touch it when its on the saw. Duuuhh. I do use it when I put my wheel away. I hold it and tighten up the wing nut so that I don't loose the parts in my pile of crap.
Later
Dan
 
Will
I made that arbor at least 8 years ago. Sometimes my ideas work, sometimes they don't. I used an Allen head set screw that locks it fast to the crank with the same size head as most Husky and Stihl screws. My plan was that I would not have to keep changing Allen wrench's when I worked on the saw. That part was fine. My dumb one is the knurl on the arbor. I thought it would be a nice feature to hold while I tightened the outside wing nut. The problem is I cant get my hand between the case and the wheel to touch it when its on the saw. Duuuhh. I do use it when I put my wheel away. I hold it and tighten up the wing nut so that I don't loose the parts in my pile of crap.
Later
Dan

Cool, how many cranks does it fit? I imagine you want a good fit so it is centered.
 
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