GB Mill modifications... yet again...

aggiewoodbutchr · Mar 13, 2008

I couldn't leave well enough alone.

When milling the large logs I post pictures of, most times I have to change the chain after every cut. I began tracking just how much time this consumed and found I was spending as much or more time setting up for each cut than making it. By the time I dismounted the saw from the mill, changed the chain and tighten it, fire the saw run it a few seconds, re-tighten the chain (required on the long bars), remount the saw, tweak the mill to compensate for bar sag and add fuel and oil, 15 minutes or more would pass. I began to ponder on how I could modify the mill so that the chain can be removed by loosening the bar only.

This is what I came up with. Instead of modifying the original uprights I fabricated new ones.

I cut a 1/4" plate stiffener to connect the mill and power head and bolted them together sandwiching the bar. I also bent an open chip guard to replace the sprocket cover.

I cut out a plate washer for the bar nuts.

My GB bars come with a hole in the nose but my Cannon bar needs to be drilled.

Oiler in place.

Continued...

aggiewoodbutchr · Mar 13, 2008

Complete for now...

I lengthened the uprights to give me a 24"+ cut capacity. This will be useful when we want to quarter a log.

Chain install...

Now I just need to cut some wood! :chainsaw:

Freakingstang · Mar 13, 2008

looks good!!!! Have you ran the open cover yet, and if so how much more prone to dust is it, if any???

I love people that think outside the box

Dai Sensei · Mar 13, 2008

Looks good to me. Involves a lot of drilling the bar though, if it doesn't have the holes already, but overall you would be well ahead.

You say changing the chain every cut. I assume to sharpen, or put on a newly sharpened one, not a new one?

BobL · Mar 13, 2008

Hey . . . . nice fiddlin' !!! . . . looks good and strong.

I find its a real bonus to not have to remove the bar from the mill to replace the chain. The pathway to do this on the BIL mill is a bit more tortuous than yours but it still works.

I can't tell from your photos but I assume you chip guard is not welded to the mill frame?

Anyway, I'll be interested to hear how it goes.

irishcountry · Mar 13, 2008

Very smart mod as always good work! I am sure I have asked before but would you reccomend a GB? I will be making the decision between the alaskan or the GB pretty soon (still no freetime yet!!) and I am still wondering if the GB with no mods is the way to go for me or if I should just go with the alaskan which seems to mount quicker and be a little simpler maybe can even change the chain due to the way its mounted. I do really appreciate the construction of the GB though. Tough decison. Thanks

dustytools · Mar 13, 2008

Way to go Aggie. :clap:

Gumnuts · Mar 13, 2008

Freakingstang said:
looks good!!!! Have you ran the open cover yet, and if so how much more prone to dust is it, if any???

I love people that think outside the box

+ 1 .
also hows deflection goin to work.....not build up where the dogs would be ?

Aggy... your refining what we'll ,probably all end up doing
THANKS FOR THE PICS.

Your Pecan slabs sure look choice

DRB · Mar 13, 2008

Nice customizing :clap:

I have thought of mounting a bar that way but could not come up with a good way to make a chip/chain guard. Looks like you have mounted your chip guard to the dog bolt holes

Thanks for the pics. Let us know how it preforms

opcorn:

stonykill · Mar 14, 2008

thats great aggie! I see a new mill in the works for me, after seeing those pictures!

rayvil01 · Mar 15, 2008

Fantastic ingenuity! That ought to save a lot of time.

So, you just drilled right through the center of the sprocket? I had no idea that was an option.

aggiewoodbutchr · Mar 16, 2008

I've been out a few days so I'll attempt to answer all the questions in one shot.

Freakingstang said:
... Have you ran the open cover yet, and if so how much more prone to dust is it, if any???...

Gumnuts said:
+ 1 .
also hows deflection goin to work.....not build up where the dogs would be ?...

I haven't had the opportunity to run it yet. I'll be sure to let ya'll know how it works in this department when I do.

BobL said:
....I can't tell from your photos but I assume you chip guard is not welded to the mill frame?....

DRB said:
.... Looks like you have mounted your chip guard to the dog bolt holes....

It's bolted to the power head only and uses the bottom dog hole plus one I added to the top. I epoxied in a brass threaded insert because cast aluminum doesn't hold threads well in thin sections.

irishcountry said:
I am sure I have asked before but would you reccomend a GB? ...

My opinion is the GB mill has the edge over the Alaskan when using 42"+ bars due to the additional support for the power head. With practice you can mount and dismount a GB just as quickly as an Alaskan.

rayvil01 said:
....So, you just drilled right through the center of the sprocket? I had no idea that was an option.

This bar had a hole in it from the factory but I have drilled Powermatch bar tips. You have to take extreme care to keep all the metal chips out of the bearings though. I use my shop vac to suck them up as I'm drilling.

aggiewoodbutchr · Mar 16, 2008

missed one

Dai Sensei said:
.... Involves a lot of drilling the bar though, if it doesn't have the holes already.....

It's not too bad with the right bits. I use sharpened carbide tipped hammer drill bits with my drill press and it takes about 2 minutes total per hole. I tried many other types of steel bits a these are the best by far.

Dai Sensei said:
You say changing the chain every cut. I assume to sharpen, or put on a newly sharpened one, not a new one?

To put on a sharpened one. I rarely hand file these chains to keep my sanity. Godda love a chain grinder.

irishcountry · Mar 17, 2008

OK thanks for the info as always a wealth of information. Again good clean looking mod!!

BobL · Mar 17, 2008

Thanks AGWB. It will be interesting to see how the guard works out. if the sawdust builds up too much, when you make your next drive sprocket/chip guard you may want to consider flaring the section of the guard in the region of the normal sawdust escape path.

Dai Sensei · Mar 17, 2008

Thanks for the reply.

I just finished my mill, haven't used it yet, and you have already got me thinking about mods

aggiewoodbutchr · Mar 17, 2008

BobL said:
Thanks AGWB. It will be interesting to see how the guard works out. if the sawdust builds up too much, when you make your next drive sprocket/chip guard you may want to consider flaring the section of the guard in the region of the normal sawdust escape path.

I have an idea on how I want to do this if necessary but I think there's enough room in there for the chips to drop free. I'll know for sure soon...

aggiewoodbutchr · Mar 30, 2008

Well.....

She performed like she should have. :clap:

In use... flattening a slab for a table project (more to come on that).

The chip guard worked great too. I might add a sloped deflector just for s&g's but it doesn't really need it.

BobL · Mar 30, 2008

Alright!

Grain shots? or are ya saving those for the table shots?

Matildasmate · Mar 30, 2008

Hi Aggie ......... I didnt think you would have any hassle's with your set up , look's great mate , look's like a huge unit mate , no wonder you alway's have a helper with it , great pic's and info Aggie as alway's and some great idea's too . Cheer's MM

GB Mill modifications... yet again...

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