lets see pics of homemade log splitters

hey guys, lets see pics of homemade log splitters!, I was lookin at factory ones, nothing impresses me with the "tank axel" . little rams wont be useful with a 4 way wedges, nor would be something that looks like it will break the first time you use it. aswell as false advertisement of tonnage capabilities.
Lets see some real mans wood splitters!

Nuff said!!!!

yeah right

i know as well as everyone on here that you cannot run a firewood buisness by splitting all of your wood by hand. sometimes it can be faster, but is it really worth it when you already have shoulder problems? besides the more time you spend splitting the more money is wasted. everyone will say that production is key when selling wood. unless one has alot of time on their hands lol.

:biggrinbounce2:

It runs off the tractor's hydraulics. 4 foot cylinder is attached with a pin so it's adjustable to split pieces from 16 inches to 4 feet. Notice the cylinder pushes the wedge. One of the pieces was broken in the picture, but there are 3 pieces of removable square channel that hold big pieces from rolling off after being split. Also on the other side are 3 lengths of 4" channel to create a "skidway" to stack 4 foot lengths on for splitting.

Mine looks just like this!

http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=35268&stc=1&d=1150746348

(this pic was originally posted by KMB, but mine is identical)

i would

I would show you a picture but you already know what mine looks like!

btw, you select a axle yet?

-Leo-

Here is mine. Boom was installed today and I can't wait to use it.

critter splitter



New pix are going to happen (eventually). Now has changable blades.
15hp Kohler, 16 gpm pump, 5 in cylinder. low mileage creampuff.

-Pat

sefh3, what are you running for a pump, engine and ram?

I am putting together a NON stock antique TJD "18hp" 2 cyl wisconsin engine that will drive a 28 GPM Barnes 2 stage pump via PTO clutch and Chain coupling.

I am using a 30 GPM valve to feed my 5X30 cylinder.

right now i am looking for a IHI RHB3 turbo to strap on, cuz I am sick like that
(they used them in chevy 1985-89 Sprint 1.0L and Daihatsu Rocky's.... if any1 has one)

the frame is built, waiting for my engine be4 i go any farther.

engine mods:
-3 angle valve job,
-backcut and polished valves.
-pocket ported
-aluminum heads (they also used cast iron)
-bored out .010
-custom 6v generator with magneto drive (I dig 6 volt)
-6v starter & hand crank.

to do:
-turbo her
-drill and tap oil fill hole in block
-assemble

I calculated that I will have 10.073 seccond cycle time (all down all up total of 60 inches) at WOT with the faster side of my 2 stage pump, that makes for an average of almost 6 inches of travel per seccond. to Limit the speed (for safety and for ease of use I am going to use a flow control valve to adjust cylinder speed from 0-6 IPM.

-Leo-

Patrick, how well does that 3 way wedge hold up? what kind of steel did you use? arc/stick welded?

New Type Log Splitter

At the risk of being blasphemous in the midst of all this raw power, I would like to offer pictures of a ¾ hp electric log splitter (protective cover removed). This splitter splits logs as good as and faster than any 8 hp hydraulic splitter I have ever used (and I have been splitting wood for 25 years). I’m using a totally different principle than any other splitter.

To understand the principle, imagine a 10 penny nail. If you were to PUSH the nail into a piece of wood it would take much more power/force and more structure supporting the wood than if you were to HAMMER the nail into the wood with your trusty hammer.

This splitter HAMMERS the wedge through the log at 600 “hits” per minute, with each “hit” averaging well less than 1” (an eccentric cam follower contacts the wedge with each rotation of the shaft to supply the “hit”). This is a similar principle that a jackhammer uses to break up concrete that is, many multiple, short, quick blows.

To the operator, the splitter works just like a hydraulic splitter. Place the long on it, pull the handle, the large screw turns and moves the whole large mechanism along the H-beam. The wedge gets successively hammered through the log. Let go of the handle and it stops moving. Push back on the handle and the screw turns in the other direction moving the whole mechanism back along the H-beam. The large screw needs very little torque driving it as it is only moving the mechanism which is on rollers. You can turn the screw with your hand.

Advantages include:

- Almost no maintenance (clean & grease and very occasional belt and chain tightening)
- No fluids of any kind needed (zero leaks, no engine oil, no hydraulic fluid)
- You don’t have to stop to gas up (saves time and $$$)
- You can split in the garage or barn (no cold, wind or rain in there)
- Large forces do not build up in the machine (avoids kick outs & violent breaks and the structure of the machine can be much lighter)
- Dead silent except when actually splitting (a few seconds per log)

I split mostly around the house where electricity is available but I have used a 2500 watt generator (6 HP B&S motor) for the few times I’ve used it in the woods.

Sorry for getting off theme (very powerful splitters) but bigger is not always better.

I would appreciate any thoughts for improvement.

VERY interesting log splitter kellog! was this your idea?

I like to see "different" ways of doing things and this I think is rather clever, simple and effective I reakon.

is your eccentric mearly a diameter off center or a lobe? if it were me I would make it a diameter off center and use either a plain bearing or a needle bearing (to increase surface area for load)

for the screw, one could gain efficiency with a ball screw assuming the lead/pitch is correct for the power at hand, of course it would only be affordable if you get one used (like from a milling machine or lathe)

all this makes me think, this seams to be the perfect application for a low RPM Hit and Miss engine!(another excuse to run an antique) or even a small steam engine OOOOR an alcohol engine. the later 2 would be great for those trying to use alternative fuels (electricity, at least from the grid is not exactly clean, tho it might be cheap.....)

what kind of wood do you split? I seam to have a lot of elm around here. Thus part of the reason I build my splitter how I am.

btw, you do your own machine work?

3 way

Old_School_Nut said:

Patrick, how well does that 3 way wedge hold up? what kind of steel did you use? arc/stick welded?

Click to expand...

Grader blade for steel. Stick welded. Then a monumental grinding job. It works very well. When going to the interchangeable blade I created a slightly different 3 way. The blades have a deep curve cut into them. This makes the log start easy, and stay centered. 6 way splits with 2 strokes....

-Pat

Reply

Old School Nut, thanks for the thoughts. Yes it was my idea. Thought of it in the late 1980’s while watching a guy using a jackhammer. Built a concept prototype in the 1990’s and finally got to what you see in the pictures. I have a pretty extensive machine shop in my garage however the machines are 1896 – 1940 vintage and are of the castoff/fix up variety. (I love old machines.)

The cam follower is a needle roller type as you suggest. The ball screw would get better efficiency as you said however the screw has so little load on it when it is turning that it likely would not be worth the expense. There is a slip clutch that limits the torque going to the screw to 10 ft-lbs. Good thought though.

I would love to run it with a hit and miss engine (love old machines) however since the flywheels move I am not sure how to couple them to the motor. Any ideas? I could easily mount an alcohol converted 3.5 hp B&S on it. I have a 3.5 B&S hanging around. Great thought.

I have never tried to split any elm with it (learned pre-splitter to avoid the stuff) and it is not very plentiful here. It would be a good test though. I mostly split oak, beech, birch and maple. Some of the maple can be ugly. The other stuff splits easily. I have the luxury of only splitting for myself, friends and neighbors so I can be a little picky with wood types. If you do a lot of elm I can understand why you would build with a lot of power.

Thanks for the input.

Very neat splitter. Your the kinda guy I,d like to hang around and watch. Not alot of things better than watching someone who really knows what they are doing.

how to power something on the move.

well their are a few ways you could power your splitter with the engine mounted on the non moving part, as one would wish to do with a hit and miss, Like you, I am crazy for old machines and here again in history is where you can find the answer, old lathes for example (but newer than yours ) would drive the carriage via hex drive, or in other words a hex shaft spinning a gear or pulley with hex shaft hole, the gear would then be allowed to slide on the hex, much like the gears do in old transmissions. the gear or pulley would mesh with another gear or pulley to drive a shaft, and in your case, then drive a pulley, obviously one can use splined shafts as well, or even sliding shafts (like on the PTO of a tractor).

another way, but more clumsy way is to use a spring loaded idler to take the slop, as the wedge is driven down belt wrap would increase and tension would increase preventing slippage of course you could use 2 more idler pulleys, one next to the drive and driven pulley to keep belt wrap constant.... it still tho, to me is not as sweet tho as a shaft driven setup. of course if you like hit an miss engines you probably like spinning shafts and things moving every which way :biggrinbounce2: anyways, these are things that came to mind right away...

-Leo-

Patrick62 said:

Grader blade for steel. Stick welded. Then a monumental grinding job. It works very well. When going to the interchangeable blade I created a slightly different 3 way. The blades have a deep curve cut into them. This makes the log start easy, and stay centered. 6 way splits with 2 strokes....

-Pat

Click to expand...

ok patrick, but I bet all the welding was worth it, now the big question! how fast can you go, and is it road legal? or havent the cops caught you yet to find out???

more seriously, got any more pics?

Hex shaft idea

Old School Nut, I'm sure your hex shaft idea is perfect for this application. It will take me a while to figure out a good way to incorporate it (I'm a bit slow) but I'm sure it can be done. With this type of set up it can be powered by virtually anything that turns. Thanks for the great thought.

kellog said:

Old School Nut, I'm sure your hex shaft idea is perfect for this application. It will take me a while to figure out a good way to incorporate it (I'm a bit slow) but I'm sure it can be done. With this type of set up it can be powered by virtually anything that turns. Thanks for the great thought.

Click to expand...

anytime! I like this kind of stuff!

btw I would mount the hex shaft on pillow blocks on the side of the I beam towards the bottom on your splitter, as its empty space anyways... because the "busy" end of the splitter does not go all the way down the beam to the foot you really don't need much hex shaft, maybe 6 inches or so more than your stroke. also its location would also help protect it, and the fact its a hex shape means it will stay cleaner than a splined shaft as dirt will be less likely to stick to it, which might be a reason they used it on lathes to start with.... definitely a cool setup you have, its low power requirement means you can have more creative means of powering it