coppermouse
ArboristSite Operative
Can someone help me out?
Where can I order a good quality sawhorse
- Thread starter coppermouse
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
BlueRidgeMark
Addicted to ArboristSite
How about building one? If you have the tools and the know how, you'll have a much better product than you can buy.
http://www.plansnow.com/sawhorse.html
http://www.plansnow.com/sawhorse.html
coppermouse
ArboristSite Operative
I actually meant the sawbuck type to hold logs.
I thought about making one and still might, but I would like a folding metal one.
I thought about making one and still might, but I would like a folding metal one.
BlueRidgeMark
Addicted to ArboristSite
Ah! Sorry, I misunderstood. Northern Tool has them. Dunno about the quality.
Search on this site for some ideas for building them. A few of us have done so.
Here's one that I did:
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=35417
The pics went away, so you can now find them at:
http://server6.theimagehosting.com/album.php?album=30321
Hope that helps!
Search on this site for some ideas for building them. A few of us have done so.
Here's one that I did:
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=35417
The pics went away, so you can now find them at:
http://server6.theimagehosting.com/album.php?album=30321
Hope that helps!
Last edited:
coppermouse
ArboristSite Operative
I looked at the one at Northern and it got bad reviews on their website and looked kinda flimsy
logbutcher
Addicted to ArboristSite
Take the advice, build one. Wood ones are better for cutting than steel anyhow, and you build it the way you want. Just some 2-bys, pressure treated if you want, simple joints and construction screws.
We've made sawhorses out of scrap timber from broken boat cradles.
You can use saplings or thick branches for a sawhorse, notched and tied or nailed. Not difficult.
Then you can stand back with a nice brew to gaze at your skill ......
We've made sawhorses out of scrap timber from broken boat cradles.
You can use saplings or thick branches for a sawhorse, notched and tied or nailed. Not difficult.
Then you can stand back with a nice brew to gaze at your skill ......
Zodiac45
Paleostoveologist & Sawwhisperer
Yep build one. It's quite easy too do and you'll have a better sawbuck cause you can make it too the size you want your wood too be cut. Enclosed is picture of one that Splittah made and that I used too make mine.(Thanks Dave!) I only used 3 sets of legs versus the 4 so mines a bit smaller than the one in the pix but it works great. I use 16" wood for my cookstove so that the distance plus an inch that I used between the sets of legs. I also used carriage bolts large washers and locknuts versus the dowels/pegs that Splittah used only because that's what I had handy. I believe I used 60% of the length of the legs as the bolting/sissoring point. So a 30" set of legs would bolt or dowel at 18". I had some old decking boards (2x6s) that I ripped in half but 2x4s are even beefier. Also a wooden sawbuck is preferable too metal for the obvious reasons that eventually/ and more often that you think, you are gonna nick the sawbuck with your chainsaw. You'll be happy it's made of wood then! 
Last edited:
strongback
ArboristSite Operative
I make disposable saw horses out of pallets:
Take a couple pallets, knock off the top few boards of each, lean them together and use the boards you pulled off to nail across the bottom on the ends. It takes about 5 minutes and at least where I am, there are pallets of all sizes seeminlgy everywhere. When I clean up the cutting area I just take the maul to it and throw it in with the other kindling.
Take a couple pallets, knock off the top few boards of each, lean them together and use the boards you pulled off to nail across the bottom on the ends. It takes about 5 minutes and at least where I am, there are pallets of all sizes seeminlgy everywhere. When I clean up the cutting area I just take the maul to it and throw it in with the other kindling.
Macguy
ArboristSite Lurker
Wow, that is an impressive sawbuck
That is a very nice looking sawbuck, I think I will make one like it, hope it is not patented or copyrighted, or trademarked, or ......
Usually I make mine out of slabs from the sawmill and they are rougher than a cob. By the time I am through with them they are almost past kindling, lol. Thanks for the pic
Yep build one. It's quite easy too do and you'll have a better sawbuck cause you can make it too the size you want your wood too be cut. Enclosed is picture of one that Splittah made and that I used too make mine.(Thanks Dave!) I only used 3 sets of legs versus the 4 so mines a bit smaller than the one in the pix but it works great. I use 16" wood for my cookstove so that the distance plus an inch that I used between the sets of legs. I also used carriage bolts large washers and locknuts versus the dowels/pegs that Splittah used only because that's what I had handy. I believe I used 60% of the length of the legs as the bolting/sissoring point. So a 30" set of legs would bolt or dowel at 18". I had some old decking boards (2x6s) that I ripped in half but 2x4s are even beefier. Also a wooden sawbuck is preferable too metal for the obvious reasons that eventually/ and more often that you think, you are gonna nick the sawbuck with your chainsaw. You'll be happy it's made of wood then!
That is a very nice looking sawbuck, I think I will make one like it, hope it is not patented or copyrighted, or trademarked, or ......Usually I make mine out of slabs from the sawmill and they are rougher than a cob. By the time I am through with them they are almost past kindling, lol. Thanks for the pic
BlueRidgeMark
Addicted to ArboristSite
No need for the weight of the 2x4 cross pieces. Mine uses 1x4 cross pieces and has held up just fine. I've tossed in the truck a few times to go other places, and I load it up heavy, so it hasn't been babied.
Here are some pics:
http://server6.theimagehosting.com/album.php?album=30321
And here is the original thread, if you want the 'whys' of the design:
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=35417
And here's a PURDY one:
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=47715
Here are some pics:
http://server6.theimagehosting.com/album.php?album=30321
And here is the original thread, if you want the 'whys' of the design:
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=35417
And here's a PURDY one:
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=47715
arlen
Me and my wife at Wild Amimal Park San Diego
blue Ridge Mark.
OK how do you set up your sawhorse so that you are cutting 12" 16" 20" 24" rounds. Do you put a scale on it, or do you cut in the middle of the uprights.
I would like to mostly cut 16" rounds so should I make the inside diameter between uprights 16" and either cut in the middle or near the upright.
I would like to throw small diameter pieces of wood up on the sawbuck and cut them to length without guessing. Thanks David:monkey:
OK how do you set up your sawhorse so that you are cutting 12" 16" 20" 24" rounds. Do you put a scale on it, or do you cut in the middle of the uprights.
I would like to mostly cut 16" rounds so should I make the inside diameter between uprights 16" and either cut in the middle or near the upright.
I would like to throw small diameter pieces of wood up on the sawbuck and cut them to length without guessing. Thanks David:monkey:
arlen
Me and my wife at Wild Amimal Park San Diego
Zodiac 45 I pretty much copied your design. I used 1/2" carriage bolts 4" long fender washers between the studs. Used all 2 by 4' used the common stud for framing walls 8' high. I looked into 1 by 4"s but they were low quality and more expensive than the 2 by 4"s so I went with all 2 by 4"s I placed the bolts 30" off the floor and cut the length at 44" this left me with an 8" higher back. I nailed the cross bracing 6" off the floor and than measured from the top of the stud 12" for the next brace. I added a stud to the bracing sticking out 4" on the left end and 9 1/2" on the right so I could cut more rounds and keep my cuts more to the middle of the vertical wood. It worked great. I also Incorporated some of BlueRidgesMark's design thanks 
David
David
Last edited:
Zodiac45
Paleostoveologist & Sawwhisperer
Zodiac 45 I pretty much copied your design. I used 1/2" carriage bolts 4" long fender washers between the studs. Used all 2 by 4' used the common stud for framing walls 8' high. I looked into 1 by 4"s but they were low quality and more expensive than the 2 by 4"s so I went with all 2 by 4"s I placed the bolts 30" off the floor and cut the length at 44" this left me with an 8" higher back. I nailed the cross bracing 6" off the floor and than measured from the top of the stud 12" for the next brace. I added a stud to the bracing sticking out 4" on the left end and 9 1/2" on the right so I could cut more rounds and keep my cuts more to the middle of the vertical wood. It worked great. I also Incorporated some of BlueRidgesMark's design thanks
Well done Arlen,
Don't ya love it when you make something that works well! Mine's a little shorter than yours cause I had some 2x6 decking that I ripped for the legs. Think they were 33" or so and I bolted at 18" or about 60 some% of the length. I did have some 1x3 that used across as Mark mentioned for a little weight taken off. I placed the cross pieces so that I could get my saw blade up under if need be. Use a good chain too. My first one was too light and after throwing some large stuff on had spread the links. I replaced it with a beefier one and set it at the ideal spread.
Thanks to Dave (Splittah) for the inspiration.
arlen
Me and my wife at Wild Amimal Park San Diego
Well done Arlen,
Don't ya love it when you make something that works well! Mine's a little shorter than yours cause I had some 2x6 decking that I ripped for the legs. Think they were 33" or so and I bolted at 18" or about 60 some% of the length. I did have some 1x3 that used across as Mark mentioned for a little weight taken off. I placed the cross pieces so that I could get my saw blade up under if need be. Use a good chain too. My first one was too light and after throwing some large stuff on had spread the links. I replaced it with a beefier one and set it at the ideal spread.
I have to admit I used light weight jack chain and putting the rounds up on the saw buck pulled the links apart. So I will have to also go with a sturdier chain
David
Zodiac45
Paleostoveologist & Sawwhisperer
Yes I use a timberjack too buck logs on the ground and save my chain from ground strikes, but a sawbuck is always handy too have. I sometimes get a load of sawmill hardwood slabs for my cookstove and it's way easy too take bundles, throw them on the sawbuck, bungy them down and cut em up.
coppermouse
ArboristSite Operative
Well I like the idea of not constantly bending over, I have a pile of small diameter logs to do, also my partner cut a bunch of logs too long for my stove and I have to cut them a little shorter. It seem a sawbuck would be well suited for this. I am going to make one.
SawTroll
Information Collector
Last edited:
BlueRidgeMark
Addicted to ArboristSite
I built the sawbuck to do the length I wanted by the spacing of the uprights. I stack the wood so the butt ends are lined up on the left end, then I cut just to the right of the uprights, starting at the right end. THis gives me 18" wood, except for the odd pieces from the ends. Here's what it looks like with a load ready to cut.
Here's a pic that should give you the idea. This is just after the last cut was made. Notice that the spacing of the leftmost two uprights is a tad smaller than the others. That's because You have to allow for the width between the two uprights differently than the others. For 18" wood, the spacing from left edge to left edge of the other uprights is 18", but the last bay is 18" MINUS (two 2x4 thicknesses).
Here's what that looks like:
See how the spacing is measured differently for the last two on the left? For the rest of them, you measure from right edge to right edge. For the last set on the left, you measure from right edge to OUTSIDE, or left edge.
BTW, I used carriage head bolts through the Xs, and made sure the carriage head was on the right side of each one, except the far left one. That way, there isn't a bolt and nut sticking out where I'm cutting, nor on that outside left end, where it could catch someone walking too close.
If I get sloppy, I knick the uprights, which is why I wouldn't want one made of metal, and why the direction of the bolts matters, and the side you cut on.
Looky here and you'll see the bolt and nut on the LEFT side of the rightmost uprights.
Hope that helps!
BlueRidgeMark
Addicted to ArboristSite
I've thought about it, I've done it. I still do it, with the larger stuff.
With the smaller stuff, this is less work. Less bending, stooping, and really, less handling of the wood. Loading is quick, and cutting is even quicker. The wood mostly unloads itself, and then the two methods are even - cut wood on the ground, waiting to be stacked.
With my boys helping, I can be stacking while they're picking up, or vice versa. It makes for some very quick work. MUCH faster than doing it on the ground one at a time, and easier on the back.
And with kindling (about 2 inch and up, I don't bother with smaller stuff), it's a night and day difference in speed.
Did I mention that this is MUCH faster?
Similar threads
