First try at chain sharpening

HuskyMike · Feb 12, 2009

So I rocked my chain pretty hard core. I was cutting a 16" Maple that I felled because it got the top snapped off during the Dec. ice storm. As I was bucking it up I found a rock hiding under the snow, when I saw the sparks fly I knew it was time to stop.

Anyways, I just sharpened my chain and wanted to ask about a couple things that I noticed.

I gave each tooth the same number of swipes. Is 10 to much?

Some of the teeth must have been more damaged than others because on some of the teeth the first swipe was hard as if the tooth was more jagged. the other swiped got much easier. Normal?

How much back pressure (pushing into the tooth) should I be applying?

Thanks for any info!

BobL · Feb 12, 2009

HuskyMike said:
I gave each tooth the same number of swipes. Is 10 to much?

10 might not be enough. When recovering from a rocked chain, more important than the number of swipes is to keep filing until all the jagged edges are removed and the cutting edge no longer glints under reflected light. The edge should look "black"

Then measure the length of the shortest cutter and file every cutter to the same length. I use a micrometer to find the smallest cutter and then lock the micrometer at that length. When measuring how much to take off the longer cutters they don't need to be all "exactly" the same - If they are within 0.01" that's usually good enough because raker penetration varies by more than that anyway. - and don't forget to set the raker heights.

How much back pressure (pushing into the tooth) should I be applying

You should push firmly and slowly enough to get a nice crisp slowish paper tearing sound - it should not be a scratching or scraping sound. Lift the file off the tooth for the back stroke.

Anyone got any good sound bites?

HuskyMike · Feb 12, 2009

I got the paper ripping sound. I figured 10 would be more than enough. I will see how she cuts and that will tell me how I did. I did notice that alot of the grooves and jagged edges from my rock mostly went away. I am using a brand new file also.

SteveH · Feb 12, 2009

Yeah, just go ahead and use it. The worst case would be that you didn't get it perfectly "repaired" so will have to sharpen again a bit sooner than if you had. I am talking about a case where you look at the teeth and feel like they're fairly close, no gouged or chunked out cutters. You'll be fine. In fact, for rocking a chain, you got lucky it only took you ten strokes per tooth....

Nitroman · Feb 12, 2009

I agree, just use it. After you get everything cleaned up, you will easily be able to see which links need just a touch, whereas the bad ones will stand out. Count the strokes to make the bad ones nice, then do the rest that number, now they'll all be equal. Takes time but I find chain sharpening a relaxing activity. I find a great deal of satisfaction when I take one of my saws out and it cuts sooooo nicely. I would strongly suggest Save-Edge files, they are the best.

HuskyMike · Feb 12, 2009

I gave it 10 more strokes just for fun. No real difference in sound or feel. Maybe I will give the saw another try tomorrow to see how I did.

climber17 · Feb 12, 2009

it is nice to keep the strokes the same and teeth the same but i take mine and have them machined when about half worn. i think its more important the chain is sharp so you dont use alot of pressure and wear out your bar faster.

David Y. · Feb 12, 2009

I usually use a couple more strokes on the side where I am using my left hand(I am righthanded). Otherwise, after 2-3 sharpenings, I've found the the chain starts cutting crooked.

J.W Younger · Feb 12, 2009

not sure my way is best but i try and keep every cutter as long as possible. angle is important and raker height between cutters get adj after sharpening. no way of knowing which cutter is gonna find metal or a rock next time

Crofter · Feb 12, 2009

HuskyMike said:
So I rocked my chain pretty hard core. I was cutting a 16" Maple that I felled because it got the top snapped off during the Dec. ice storm. As I was bucking it up I found a rock hiding under the snow, when I saw the sparks fly I knew it was time to stop.

Anyways, I just sharpened my chain and wanted to ask about a couple things that I noticed.

I gave each tooth the same number of swipes. Is 10 to much?

Some of the teeth must have been more damaged than others because on some of the teeth the first swipe was hard as if the tooth was more jagged. the other swiped got much easier. Normal?

How much back pressure (pushing into the tooth) should I be applying?

Thanks for any info!

When you rock a chain it is quite common to have hard spots on the burred edge that a file wont touch unless you really lean on it. I have broken files trying to break through this. Not uncommon to have to knock back the teeth 1/16 of an inch and 10 strokes doesnt surprise me.

The more solid you have your bar and tight chain the better you can come onto it and actually easier on the chain than when it is sliding not cutting. Try using one of your older files to break through the initial crust on rocked out teeth then switch to your better file. I think you will have to measure cutter length and not depend too much on number of strokes; if you are like most folks, one side is easier to file than the other, aside from the hardened ones.

Evanrude · Feb 12, 2009

HuskyMike said:
I gave each tooth the same number of swipes. Is 10 to much?

Not at all. Always start with your worst tooth, file until its good n sharp, then do the rest the same amount of strokes.

HuskyMike said:
How much back pressure (pushing into the tooth) should I be applying?

Whatever feels good to you. Just do them all the same, which can be hard going from right to left handed cutters. Getting in a good rhythm is whats important here.

timbrjackrussel · Feb 12, 2009

Crofter said:
When you rock a chain it is quite common to have hard spots on the burred edge that a file wont touch unless you really lean on it. I have broken files trying to break through this. Not uncommon to have to knock back the teeth 1/16 of an inch and 10 strokes doesnt surprise me.

The more solid you have your bar and tight chain the better you can come onto it and actually easier on the chain than when it is sliding not cutting. Try using one of your older files to break through the initial crust on rocked out teeth then switch to your better file. I think you will have to measure cutter length and not depend too much on number of strokes; if you are like most folks, one side is easier to file than the other, aside from the hardened ones.

I sometimes use a small grinding stone on a Dremel to get through the blunt, hard edge of the tooth. Just don't get it too hot.

spankrz · Feb 12, 2009

when the tooth you are filing is sharp, you will be able to feel it in the file. the only way to learn how to sharpen chain well is to sharpen a chain, and go test it out. trial and error.

madmax · Feb 12, 2009

Still learning myself, but I bet your gonna have to take the rakers down quite a bit before you know if its truly sharp, try the search on here, more info than the human mind can digest, good luck.

Raymond · Feb 12, 2009

When I hit a rock or nail I throw the chain in a bucket and buy a new one. The time you spend jacking with a damaged chain and trashing a file it just isn't worth it.

If you don't mine sharping hammered chains, I'll make ya a hell of a deal on a bucket of'em:agree2:.

madmax · Feb 12, 2009

Raymond said:
When I hit a rock or nail I throw the chain in a bucket and buy a new one. The time you spend jacking with a damaged chain and trashing a file it just isn't worth it.

If you don't mine sharping hammered chains, I'll make ya a hell of a deal on a bucket of'em:agree2:.

I'll pay shipping, :clap:

pm me

IchWarriorMkII · Feb 13, 2009

What size Raymond

Ill take them

madrone · Feb 13, 2009

I finally splurged a big $15.99 and bought a digital caliper from harbor freight. Hand sharpening chain is now much easier. No more eyeballing which cutter is longer.
I highly recommend these things. And no, I don't work at harbor freight.:monkey:

Raymond · Feb 13, 2009

IchWarriorMkII said:
What size Raymond

Ill take them:

Oh I don't know. I figured one day I would buy a chain sharpener and play with it. I just ain't sold on how good they are. Seems the angle is a little different or something.

Once I have one sharpened with a machine I don't think a file fits the hole right anymore.

When they inprove'em I'll be on it. :agree2:

STLfirewood · Feb 13, 2009

madrone said:
I finally splurged a big $15.99 and bought a digital caliper from harbor freight. Hand sharpening chain is now much easier. No more eyeballing which cutter is longer.
I highly recommend these things. And no, I don't work at harbor freight.:monkey:

You guys really measure every tooth to make sure it's the same length? Wow That sounds like a waste of time to me. I don't think it really matters. I have never noticed a difference because one tooth was longer then the others. I always just make sure the angle is correct. Not trying to tell you your wrong I just don't think it's worth it. I would think your loosing chain life for no reason.

Scott

First try at chain sharpening

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