3 Non-running Poulans

scrampbell · Dec 3, 2009

Boy am I glad I found you guys! My old-man retired neighbor asked me the other day if I knew anything about small engines. Next thing I know he's loading 3 Poulan-green chainsaws into my truck that a relative of his picked up at a pawn shop. Says if I get any of them running, he wants one.

I'm planning to dive in this weekend and need some getting started advice. I've had success doing DIY repair work on my 1984 Johnson outboard boat motor, but the leaf blower I tried to fix last year remains in about 100 pieces (I don't think it was meant to be worked on).

Back to the saws... one is a 2550, one's a 2055, and I can't remember the 3rd (but I think it's nicer than the other two - neighbor said he got this one running for a short time). From what I've seen on the forum, these are pretty puny saws at 20 and 25cc, right?

Anyway, where do I start with these?

Where can I find the correct spark plug numbers to go in these saws?

My plan is to start with fresh fuel mix and new plugs and see if they'll run. From there, I guess I should check fuel lines and I can test for spark on my tester (what gap should I use?). After that I figure I'd need to tear down and clean the carb?

As you can tell... I'm kind of winging it here. Any advice would be great!

husqvarmit · Dec 3, 2009

Saws

Got any pics for us to see?

Varmit

bejay · Dec 3, 2009

would start with a compression test to see if thats ok first.

scrampbell · Dec 3, 2009

bejay said:
would start with a compression test to see if thats ok first.

What number am I looking for here? I assume just give it 3 or 4 good pulls?

Also, I'll try to add some pics tonight.

sefh3 · Dec 3, 2009

Where to start... OH boy... Let's see.....

Check for spark on all the saws... If no spark then start digging into why not. If they have on/off switches start looking for wires that are bent/broke.
If you have spark, that's good, now let's check for compression. If it's over 120ish your rocking. After that we need some fuel and you should be running.

Brian VT · Dec 3, 2009

Pull the mufflers and look at the pistons/cyls. for scoring.

scrampbell · Dec 3, 2009

Compression seems to be good. No spark test yet. I measured the Bar length from the body to the tip of the chain. I noticed that a couple of them are rated for a different size Bar than what they've got on them.

2055 - 100 Compression - 14" Bar
2150 - 120 Compression - 18" Bar
2550 - 120 Compression - 15.5" Bar

Can you guys tell me anything about these saws? Are they any good?

scrampbell · Dec 4, 2009

So is the one with 100 compression okay or is this too low?

Also, how would you guys test for spark?

67 Mustang · Dec 4, 2009

Poulan Website

You can got to Poulan's website at:

http://www.poulanpro.com/node4020.aspx

Click on Customer Support link at top, then Archived Manuals and put in model number of saw. There are op manuals and parts manuals for all three listed there.

I check for spark by removing plug, plugging plug wire onto it, ground the base against the closest metal part of the saw (usually the cylinder head) and pulling rewind. Make sure ignition is on. May need to dim light to see the spark. The 2055 Op Manual lists Champion RCJ7Y as the spark plug. Probably all the same but you can check the manuals.

All three of those saws are the plastic case, clamshell design engines. It's not that they're of no use but are not as desirable as some of the older, metal split case design saws. 100 lbs of compression is probably too low to crank & run properly. 120 lbs may start but may not run well or very powerfully.

What major city are you near in NC?

scrampbell · Dec 8, 2009

Spark looks good on all of them, but the existing plugs don't match what the website says should be in them.

The piston on the 2055 looks pretty bad, the 2550 looks a lot better, but not as good as the 2150.

Pics attached for your viewing pleasure!

mowoodchopper · Dec 8, 2009

Three non running poulans?? Wasnt that the name of a 90 s band?

Or was it four non blondes? :greenchainsaw:

HimWill · Dec 8, 2009

I would set the saw in pic.4250 aside for later,it has serious issues.It can be fixed,it will take a few parts and some time.
The saw in pic.4256 shows carbon build-up,drip a little kerosene (or STP gas treatment) on the ring and let it soak a while.Check the muffler on that saw for carbon blockage and clean it out.Standard cleanup should get it running.
The last pic.,4258 looks fine,a standard cleanup should get it going without too much trouble.
A standard cleanup is just a new fuel line and fuel filter.Check flywheel to coil gap and re-build carb if needed.
Don't worry too much about the 120 lb. compression numbers,get them going and then see how they perform.

scrampbell · Dec 9, 2009

So the 2150 started up pretty easy, but hesitated a little bit once running and then finally died out. Started up easy again right away. Any thoughts? I still need to do the standard cleanup.

I was going to try to start the 2550, but the purge bubble stuck in the first time I pressed it. So I guess that suggests that the carb can't suck any fuel, right? The standard cleanup ought to correct this issue I think. In the mean time, how do I get the purge bubble unstuck? Is there a way to get at (and under) the carb without taking the saw completely apart?

By the way, thanks for all the replies guys.

-I'm right outside of Wilmington, NC.
-I think the 4 Non Blondes qualifies more as a "group" than a "band."

HimWill · Dec 9, 2009

Try turning the primer bulb a quarter turn to the left and pull it straight out.Not much slack to work with so take it easy.(The saw should run even if the primer bulb is shot.)

scrampbell · Dec 10, 2009

I actually took off the air filter plate and one of the lines was totally kinked. I rerouted it to remove the kink, but now the purge bubble doesn't move any fuel at all like I think it should.

Unfortunately, I had already put it back together before I realized this. I'll work on it again tonight.

scrampbell · Dec 11, 2009

alright, i'm focusing on the best looking one. it starts up but then dies as described above. I'm going to replace the fuel lines and plug.... how do I clean the carb really well?

huskydave · Dec 11, 2009

Brian VT said:
Pull the mufflers and look at the

pistons/cyls. for scoring.

yup check exhaust side of pistons before picking a saw to rebuild. I always try to get saws with compression and no spark and it has payed off.

scrampbell · Dec 11, 2009

pics of the cylinders are posted earlier in the thread. This one had good spark plus decent compression. It starts well but runs a little weak and then dies. It starts up easy right away but does the same thing.

Any thoughts on what this is?

sefh3 · Dec 11, 2009

Adjust your carb. Does it die when you give it full throttle? Adjust your H side of the carb. 1/8 turn at a time.

crane · Dec 11, 2009

sefh3 said:
Adjust your carb. Does it die when you give it full throttle? Adjust your H side of the carb. 1/8 turn at a time.

+1

By your description, sounds like it's just an adjustment issue. Worst case, proably a carb rebuild. Don't think that will be too hard.

The first pic with the scored piston, I would leave till last. Looks like someone ran straight gas thru it. That will take some open heart surgery and a few parts. No biggie tho.

3 Non-running Poulans

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