3 Non-running Poulans

[scrampbell]

The carb repair kit is on order. I opened up the diaphragm side of the carb and it looks like there's some kind of a clear jelly buildup all around.

I think I need to clean the tiny fuel nozzles inside the carb throat.... do I get at these from inside the diaphragm or from the carb throat side?

Thanks again for all the help guys.

 

[Rookie1]

You should totally take the carb apart. There are two little screws with springs that keep them tensioned. Those are the mix screws. screw them in until they seat and note how many turns it took. Then remove them. Get a can of carb cleaner and put the straw on and spray away. Make sure you take out the needle and clean passage too.

 

[knockbill]

you really got some good info there,,, those saws should be up and running soon,,, on teh one that starts and dies on acceleration, try to set the lo screw a little richer,,, the carb cleaning and rebuilds will probably take care of it, tho
good luck with your saws...

 

[timberwolf]

Or take one of the other 2 carbs if they are the same and swap it on.

 

[scrampbell]

How do I get the red circled parts out?

I haven't taken the green circled parts out yet.

 

[timberwolf]

Not easy to tell for sure by the drawing but if they are aluminium welch plugs, then drill a hole in them carefully and pry them out. Not all kits have new plugs and you can end up hunting for them. I'v turned up a number of them on lathe if I don't have the right one on hand.

If the carb was gummed up most likely you will need to pull them and clean the fuel passages below

 

[scrampbell]

A lathe... right. I'll add it to my Christmas list.

Timberwolf, you're officially my hero.

 

[crane]

Those are welch plugs. Leave them in. They should only be removed if there is EXCESSIVE buildup in the carb. They can be a pain to get sealed(new ones). Remove all the parts and give the carb a good soak. Clean and flush again with carb cleaner, then use a little compressed air to blow clean. Install new kit. I'll find and post a carb cleaning link for you by a member here. Not the same carb, but the principle is the same.

 

[crane]

here is the link

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=64450&highlight=Tillotson+rebuild

This was put together by GASoline71(Gary). It is for an older Tillotson HP carb, but the principle is the same, as well as most of the parts. Yours will just be smaller

 

[Rookie1]

It may be a pain to put on and take off again if its not right but I wouldnt pop them out either. Clean it and try it. If it runs well you good,if not youll get more expierience popping carbs off.

 

[crane]

Rookie's right. 99% of carb jobs do not require the plug to be removed. It can cause more problems than you need right now.



With all those nova's, "Rookie" just doesn't seem right

 

[Rookie1]

With all those nova's, "Rookie" just doesn't seem right

That was my CB handle when I started driving truck. Oldtimers called me newcomer then switched it to Rookie. I figure your always learning and it better than Knowitall.

 

[scrampbell]

Thanks for the link. That is pretty much the most helpful thing ever in my situation.

I'm going to leave the welch plugs alone for now... The thing's definitely gummed up, but I wouldn't say it's excessive.

 

[crane]

Give Gary a nod when you can, and never post a "which oil" thread LOL.

That carb rebuild thread helped me out a lot when I started here, along with a ton of other people. Was not long ago when I was in the same boat as you. New to the board with a lot of questions. Tried to be polite and asked my questions, and people here helped me out. Now I'm just trying to pay it forward.

 

[scrampbell]

So, I rebuilt the carb and I swear when I was taking the fuel lines off at the beginning I made a mental note of which line went on which fitting. As you've already figured out, now I'm not real sure.

On the carb there are two fittings...
+ one fitting is black with a 90 degree elbow,
+ the other fitting is brass and is just a straight fitting.

And I have two fuel lines that need to be connected to the above two fittings...
+ one fuel line is 1/8" that runs into the fuel tank and has the fuel filter on the end. This is the fuel pickup line obviously.
+ the other fuel line is 1/4" and would run from one of the above two fittings, into the primer bulb, and ultimately then dumps back into the tank. This is the purge line.

So, which fitting is for the fuel pickup and which fitting is for purging? I actually tried it both ways with no success. The primer bulb should prime all the lines after a carb rebuild, right? It didn't really seem like the primer bulb was pulling up fuel in either configuration.

In case it's important, the 1/8" line and fuel filter are new as I replaced them when I had the carb off. I did not replace the two 1/4" lines that run in and out of the primer bulb.

- The fittings on the carb appear to be the same size by eye... And I can get the 1/8" line on each one with equal difficulty.
- Unfortunately, neither of the carbs on my two other saws are the same setup.

Thanks once again for all the help and don't tell anybody how extremely clueless I am here.

 

[knockbill]

someone will be along shortly to sort it out,,,
1st thing i do when disassembling anything is take pics,,, doesn't mean it was together right in teh first place, but i can get back to square one ,, i can't remember anything any more...

 

[damifino]

3 non-running Poulans and a partridge in a pear tree.

Sorry.... its just that time of year.

Merry Christmas!

 

[scrampbell]

Make that TWO non-running Poulans! Haven't cut wood with it yet, but the 2150 is up and running!

Turns out the two primer lines were hooked up backwards. It was trying to pull air from the tank and push it into the carb. I think it was probably pulling a little bit of air through there when the engine was running which made it run weak and die.

Also, for reference, on this WT-324 the black fitting with the 90 degree elbow gets the purge line (connection goes from black fitting to primer bulb, then from primer bulb to tank. The brass fitting is for the fuel pickup.

Thanks for all the help everyone. I'm moving on to the 2550 now....

 

[DEG305]

Boy am I glad I found you guys! My old-man retired neighbor asked me the other day if I knew anything about small engines. Next thing I know he's loading 3 Poulan-green chainsaws into my truck that a relative of his picked up at a pawn shop. Says if I get any of them running, he wants one.

I'm planning to dive in this weekend and need some getting started advice. I've had success doing DIY repair work on my 1984 Johnson outboard boat motor, but the leaf blower I tried to fix last year remains in about 100 pieces (I don't think it was meant to be worked on).

Back to the saws... one is a 2550, one's a 2055, and I can't remember the 3rd (but I think it's nicer than the other two - neighbor said he got this one running for a short time). From what I've seen on the forum, these are pretty puny saws at 20 and 25cc, right?

Anyway, where do I start with these?

Where can I find the correct spark plug numbers to go in these saws?

My plan is to start with fresh fuel mix and new plugs and see if they'll run. From there, I guess I should check fuel lines and I can test for spark on my tester (what gap should I use?). After that I figure I'd need to tear down and clean the carb?

As you can tell... I'm kind of winging it here. Any advice would be great!

these three saws are all in the 36+ CC range. the saw in your first picture is beyond logical rebuild (COST) In fact all three will cost more to fix than it would be to go to WalMart and buy new.

 

[scrampbell]

I worked on the 2550 last night. Fuel tank was so gummed up that I thought there were chips of wood in there. But when I tried to pull them out with needlenose pliers they were just balls of sludge.

I need some help with a couple of problems I ran into...

1. The primer was hooked up backward again, which makes me wonder if the problem might be me. Am I right to think that the primer bulb should pull air (and some fuel) out of the top of the carb and dump it back into the tank?

2. This is the major problem... I need some help on getting the throttle cable hooked up. On the 2150 and 2055, the throttle linkage is a solid rigid linkage between the trigger and the carb. On the 2550, it's a flimsy cable that I can't get routed correctly. There's too much slack in the cable, so that when I pull the trigger it doesn't even come close to actuating the throttle at the carb. Do I need to shorten up the cable somehow? (probably in the handle.) Any help here would be much appreciated.

Even without the throttle working, I tried to fire it up just to see what would happen. It TOOK OFF on the first pull and ran for about two seconds then died. Is this an adjustment issue?