Tuning advanced friction hitches.

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Lumberjack

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I have noticed that noone has posted different lengths of cord and braid combinations for various hitches.

Tomorrow and saturday I plan on playing with different knots and lengths of tress cords. All lenghts of the tress cord is untied, the fishermans knot takes about 10"s to tie, so 2 knots means take off 20" from the overal length to get the eye to eye length.

The rope is Samson Blue Streak, the tress cords are 5/16" sta set and 3/8" tennex, and I weigh around 235-240lbs with my gear on.

The format below is wraps on top:wraps/braids below

For my lanyard I am going to use:
4:1 Distel 40"

3:3 VT 46"
4:3 VT 46"

For my climbing hitch I am going to use:
3:1 Distel 40"
4:1 Distel 40"

3:3 VT 44"
3:2 VT 44"
4:2 VT 44"
4:1 Distel 44"

3:3 VT 46"
4:3 VT 46"

3:4 VT 48"
4:3 VT 48"
4:4 VT 48"

3:4 VT 50"
4:3 VT 50"
4:4 VT 50"


May try some others, this is a start. I will try and post the results on here so that others can look up this thread and glean info on where to start tuning for them.

One thing I figured out tonight is that on a VT the bottom two braids have to be the same (same leg on top).
 
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As you can see in the left pic is the bottom two braids are different, and it is making the end of the vt twist and come undone. The right pic is properly tied, the braids change from the top to the last two. This should cancell any twist the VT puts in the climbing rope.

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Distel tied 4:1 with 40". This is loaded so the distel is pulled apart some by the loading. Notice the small amound of room for any slack to be had in the system, more effiecent IMO.

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Notice this is my old lanyard VT with a too long tress cord (so i made an extra wrap and braid to get it to hadle properly). There is alot of room for slack to form from the distance the pulley pushes up the hitch till the hitch pulls out enough to set (if that makes sense).

attachment_22159.php
 
Looks like someone needs to whip them ropes!

As a matter of fact, I think there's a rule against that in ANSI.

love
nick
 
Look that them up there^.

And these:). The one on the right is my hugely long tress cord without melted tips. The rests tips were melted and rolled.

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NickfromWI said:
Looks like someone needs to whip them ropes!

As a matter of fact, I think there's a rule against that in ANSI.

love
nick
As long as the 4 to 1 rule is in effect, who cares how the ends are finished? Albeit, tape, melted, whipped, etc....
 
Chapter and verse from ANSI Z133-2000

9.1.10 Equipment used to secure an arborist in the tree or from an aerial lift shall not be used for anything other than its intended purpose. EXCEPTION: The arborist climbing line may be used to raise and lower tools.

9.1.11 Rope ends shall be finished in a manner to prevent raveling.

9.1.12 Ropes and climbing equipment shall be stored and transported in such a manner to prevent damage through contact with sharp tools, cutting edges, gas, oil, or chemicals.
 
Cool thread. I use a 4:3 VT. The tress cord is cut to 37" before ends are tied. I like a tightly braided smaller diameter rope like the yellow jacket and the new velocity and the 4:3 VT works well. If I use a normal 1/2" rope I just take one wrap off the top and the knot functions easier for me.
 
Carl, I've been using some Crystaline for the past couple months on my lanyard, it performs really well, but its $$$. You should check it out if you can find it.
 
treeman82 said:
Carl, I've been using some Crystaline for the past couple months on my lanyard, it performs really well, but its $$$. You should check it out if you can find it.


Whats the advantages Matt?



Stumper, most all flats suck, but if you can get them in harmony......
 

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