Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
Back to part 1: http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=31559
Back to part 2: http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?p=409998#post409998
Just a quick assembly and we're done.
Insert the oil hose into to the tank taking care that the tab locks into the casting - if not, your hose will kink in the tank. Insert the B4x2 seal in the upper pump outlet.. UPDATE: wife walking dog yesterday - brings back a seal "is this the one you lost?" grrrr...
Insert pump into the casing and gently and evenly tighten the screws... Don't overtighten... use a torque wrench if you have one. These are only 4mm screws and easy to strip out.
Drop some oil into the pump around the crank and insert the worm/drive. Spin it clockwise - should stay in the pump and rotate freely. If it binds, figure out why - it will strip the worm if there is any binding.
Place the big washer on the crank exactly the same way it came off - flare down. If you put it on upside down, the clutch will jam. Spin on the clutch counter clockwise (left thread) until it bottoms. Rotate the engine counter-clockwise until the piston is just near the top, insert the rope again, torque to 51.5 ft/lbs... some cheaper (and some expensive) torque wrenches do NOT work for left hand threads. If you don't know, test it in the vice before trying to use it on the clutch.
IMPORTANT: use a thin screw driver and make sure the pump drive arm rotates after torquing the clutch. If it doesn't, you'll shear off the worm or drive arm.
Grease the sprocket bearing and insert on the crankshaft. Locate the pump drive arm and be sure it locks into the clutch drum notch when you insert the drum. If not, it can damage the pump housing.
Rim sprocket, washer and a the circlip - replace the circlip if you haven't for a while.
All that remains is to put back the plastic side cover and metal shield, screw in the plug, put the handle back on and off to cut wood.
So... does it pump more oil? definitely - about 25-30% more... is it enough for milling? better, but I still might need and aux oiler for the wide stuff.
Back to part 2: http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?p=409998#post409998
Just a quick assembly and we're done.
Insert the oil hose into to the tank taking care that the tab locks into the casting - if not, your hose will kink in the tank. Insert the B4x2 seal in the upper pump outlet.. UPDATE: wife walking dog yesterday - brings back a seal "is this the one you lost?" grrrr...
Insert pump into the casing and gently and evenly tighten the screws... Don't overtighten... use a torque wrench if you have one. These are only 4mm screws and easy to strip out.
Drop some oil into the pump around the crank and insert the worm/drive. Spin it clockwise - should stay in the pump and rotate freely. If it binds, figure out why - it will strip the worm if there is any binding.
Place the big washer on the crank exactly the same way it came off - flare down. If you put it on upside down, the clutch will jam. Spin on the clutch counter clockwise (left thread) until it bottoms. Rotate the engine counter-clockwise until the piston is just near the top, insert the rope again, torque to 51.5 ft/lbs... some cheaper (and some expensive) torque wrenches do NOT work for left hand threads. If you don't know, test it in the vice before trying to use it on the clutch.
IMPORTANT: use a thin screw driver and make sure the pump drive arm rotates after torquing the clutch. If it doesn't, you'll shear off the worm or drive arm.
Grease the sprocket bearing and insert on the crankshaft. Locate the pump drive arm and be sure it locks into the clutch drum notch when you insert the drum. If not, it can damage the pump housing.
Rim sprocket, washer and a the circlip - replace the circlip if you haven't for a while.
All that remains is to put back the plastic side cover and metal shield, screw in the plug, put the handle back on and off to cut wood.
So... does it pump more oil? definitely - about 25-30% more... is it enough for milling? better, but I still might need and aux oiler for the wide stuff.
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