what realy is the best rip chain

What realy is the best style of rip chains? what are some of the pros and cons with regard to eficiency, maintainability, cost, longevity, saw wear and opperator danger?

As I talk with differnt folks, and the guys at a couple of the local saw shops I find several differnt opinions on what style of rip chain is best. Bering in mind im ripping mostly 10-24 inch softwoods and softer hardwoods using a Stihl 066 with ether a 20" or 32" bar

---shop 1 recomends low profile "pmx" (I think) chain (I Thought this was ??? on a stihl 066 with a longer bar). Apparently a bit pricy as it not a stock item for them.

---shop 2 takes standard semi chisle chain and regrinds to 10 degrees, they seemed to know what they were talking about and charged ~20 bucks for the service.

---shop 3 can order some pricy chisle chain (~70$ for 105 drive links) with alternate top plates removed, the remainder of the cutter ground to 20 degrees, and the other teeth ground to 0 degrees. Though another guy at the same shop sugests chisle chain square filed all top plates to 0 degrees with a 50 degree point and the sides to 20-25 degrees.

---shop4 looked at me like I was from mars, they did not seem to understand why anyone would want to cut a log lengthwise, and were more intersted in trying to sell me a weed wacker or a skidoo.

and of the individuals I have talked to one says just use a skip tooth chain, another says use a regular chain but keep it sharp and drop the rakers a bit.

and then there are specialty chains available through granberg, ripsaw and others.


What is realy the best way to go, any advise that might save me time money and agravation would be appreciated.

Timberwolf

Try this

http://www.forestryforum.com/cgi-bi...sawmill;action=display;num=995596176;start=13

I have a very limited experience with ripping chains, but was impressed with Baileys RIP 50 30RP. low profile chain they recommend for bars under 32". 29cents/DL

I only buy factory ground ripping chain, I`ve seen too many guys destroy good chain trying to modify it with a grinder.
They take the hardness out of the cutters.
Full skip Oregon RA is what I`m using after trying several others.
Cuts clean, stays sharp and takes the abuse.

I've used four different styles of ripping chain. The first was the Granberg style that was made by a local saw shop (cutter, 2 scoring teeth, cutter, and so on). I tried this on my neighbor's Stihl 039 with a 24" bar and his Husky 3120 with a 36" bar. For me it wasn't very fast or smooth. Maybe it was not ground correctly by the shop. The second was Bailey's low profile chain (I think they sell the same chain reground as a ripping chain now), .370 pitch, .050 gauge, which I reground to 10° across the top and 45° side angle. I ran this on a Husky 2100 with a 32" Sandvik bar. It cut fast and smooth and held an edge pretty well. The only problem that started to develop was the inside edges of the bar rails started to wear down really fast. I think a 32" bar on that large of a saw is really pushing it for that small chain. I wrecked the chain on a Harbor Freight lumber maker and shortly thereafter sold the saw so I don't have a long term test result for it. The third, and my favorite, is Oregon 52L (.404 x .063) full comp. round chisel that I grind to 0°across the top with a 50° side angle. I’ve used this in my 084 with a 36” bar with very good results in oak and pine. The forth is Oregon 27A (.404 x .063, Micro-Chisel Skiptooth) ground the same as the 52L. I’m running this on the 084 with a 50” bar cutting 40”+ red oak. It seems to be pretty good but I don’t have anything to compare it to - I’ve never cut anything this big. I bought it because Oregon doesn’t make the 52L anymore. I’ve since found a half roll of 52L and am in the process of making a ripping chain for the longer bar so I can compare the two. I’ve also traded the 084 for a 090.

With your saw and bar combo I would try the low profile from Bailey’s, at least with the shorter bar. Of course that depends on the gauge of your bar. The .370 runs fine on .375 sprocket and rim.

Hey Kevin, where did you find the RA? I’ve heard about it but can’t find anybody that sells it. In fact, I can’t find anybody locally that even carries Oregon chain in bulk.

So far I have heard a couple votes for the 0° cutters, I will have to give it a try.

G'day,

Kevin put me onto the Oregon RA, and its brilliant. Ive got a jpg that I could email you with some info on this chain. Its a bit large to post here, and if I reduce the quality, you prolly wont be able to read it. Email me if you want it.
Cheers
Charlie.

I like to see the specs on the chain

Please email me the pic/jpeg at [email protected]

Thanks Slaberman!
Here is the JPG, I hope!

To the best of my knowledge you can only get Oregon full skip RA from a Husqvarna dealer.
My dealer has it if you can`t find any elsewhere.
Oregon reps I have spoken with won`t even admit they have it.
I have purchased Oregon RA chains in 050 and 058.

Can you get it in 3/8? I only see .325 & .404.

Yes, 3/8 pitch is available.
That is what I`m using.

I use a grinder to even up the cutters if they get too long on one side or the other but generally I file.
I`m extremely careful not to generate too much heat when I use the grinder.
I`m a bit of a fanatic when I file, I`ll blacken the edge of the cutter with a black marking pen so I can see exactly where the metal is being removed.
I only take the top plate to 10o.
It works well for me so I don`t see a need to change anything.

Originally posted by Kevin
It works well for me so I don`t see a need to change anything.

Click to expand...

Amen to that. I almost always use the grinder but I go really slow, not taking off very much at a time and not letting the wheel stay on the cutter for very long so it doesn't get too hot. It takes me forever to sharpen and almost all day to regrind a new chain. I do use a hand file to touch up every now and then. When I get better at it I'm sure I'll use it more often for touching up.

Robert,
As I understand it ...
RA was developed for one or more countries in Europe,I`m not sure why, when or where but Husqvarna Forest and Garden was the company that requested Oregon make the chain for a special market.
I just happened to stumble on it a few years ago and after testing it,ended up buying several loops of it that will last me many moons to come.

What are the top and side angles of the RA chain as comes from from the factory? Do you keep the same angles as you file?
The 10º top angle worked well for the low profile chain but I haven't tried it with the big chain.

Also, if you could email me the info. about your dealer I might have to try a loop.

G'day Kevin,

I guess Im lucky then, as I can get 25' rolls of it here (thats .404, dont know about the 3/8). I was inquiring about the .404, when they sent me that pic, so theres prolly a sheet for the 3/8 too.
Best tip I ever got, that chain! Thanks Kevin!
Cheers
Charlie.

G'day Robert,

This pic may answer your angle questions.
Oh, I see now the photo limit has gone up drastically, so I could have posted the original one originally!
Cheers
Charlie.

Slabberman What kind of wood are you milling?

What kind of wood are you milling down under?
Is there allot of wood or allot of government control.?