Sharpening spikes

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treemandan

Tree Freak
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I just replaced my 1 year olds with new shiny gaffs. Oh boy! 75 bucks! Well worth it. Seems to me to be a good idea.
I will send the olds ones to be sharpend along with the rest of the things that get sharpened.
There was a viable differnce for sure! I have tried to file some gaffs before but there is a right way and a wrong way I guess.
I would just buy the sharpening kit but it makes me feel like an executive when I get to pay someone to do it for me. I had a boss who told me that I should have an accountant do my taxes cause I was mechanic (then) and not a tax guy. I told him that since he paid me cash I didn't need a tax guy and I just spent my money on food, rent, tools and bottlerockets which to shoot under the bathroom door while he was in there taking a crap. ANYWAY, the point is; its nice to have service provided so I can operate at a more professional level. Its nice to be able to afford the service and its nice to be able to give my reciept for the service to my tax guy so I can deduct it... now.
First tree with the new gaffs was a sycamore and I was glad for the sharp, precision. I advise everybody not to lack in this department.
My heart bleeds for those janking around with a pair a screwed up spikes. Please do something about before you get hurt... its worth it, it really is.
 
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Yeah, I just sharpened mine the other day with my precision eye and a bastard file. Then I billed myself and put the payment in the beer fund.

It is something to stay on top of for sure.
 
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Yeah, I just sharpened mine the other day with my precision eye and a bastard file. Then I billed myself and put the payment in the beer fund.

It is something to stay on top of for sure.

I bet you got a wet grinder for those chipper knives too. Man I sure could use one of those.
 
Nails. Mind going over the proper technique to sharpen 'em up? My new ones are just about at that point where they could use a touch up. Thought about just taking a flat file to them at a few different angles and hoping for the best. Any suggestions?
 
Nails. Mind going over the proper technique to sharpen 'em up? My new ones are just about at that point where they could use a touch up. Thought about just taking a flat file to them at a few different angles and hoping for the best. Any suggestions?

file from the bottom of the spike (part that punctures the wood) up towards the top. not to a point and do not remove that curve on the underside.

easiest if done on the vice. wear gloves in case you misfire so you dont puncture your hands.

flat file is good for the job. you dont need to file the outside of the gaff just the underside of the edge in a long even stroke. remember not to make a point, try to get it back to the original shape. if you look at the gaff you'll notice that it sweeps a little on one side and straight on the other.


although i lack the proper terminology i hope this helps. lol
 
file from the bottom of the spike (part that punctures the wood) up towards the top. not to a point and do not remove that curve on the underside.

easiest if done on the vice. wear gloves in case you misfire so you dont puncture your hands.

flat file is good for the job. you dont need to file the outside of the gaff just the underside of the edge in a long even stroke. remember not to make a point, try to get it back to the original shape. if you look at the gaff you'll notice that it sweeps a little on one side and straight on the other.


although i lack the proper terminology i hope this helps. lol

You have not helped in any way but thank you. There seems to be a two stage angle on mine and I have done what you sugested and it helped but it ain't like cream son. You know, cream? Smooth, cool and refreshing?
Thers is something about those curved Klien gaffs that make pole running sweet business. There is alittle more to sharpening them than just running a file over them like that.
Sure it sharpens em up but what you might be experiance is being used to it and being able to compensate. With a new set it felt like the equipment was doing some more of the work I was doing; They worked better at what they do.
 
Oldirty did a pretty good job of summing it up, it is quite simple.

Look at the shape of the gaff originally and try to match it by filing on the underside of the gaff only. Give it a good side view and pay attention to how it "sweeps" at a slight curve and the tip. Usually you only need to remove a little metal. Just like a saw, the more you do it, the less you will need to remove at a time.

I stick my spikes in a vice for stability.
 
Oldirty did a pretty good job of summing it up, it is quite simple.

Look at the shape of the gaff originally and try to match it by filing on the underside of the gaff only. Give it a good side view and pay attention to how it "sweeps" at a slight curve and the tip. Usually you only need to remove a little metal. Just like a saw, the more you do it, the less you will need to remove at a time.

I stick my spikes in a vice for stability.

I want you to look at the spec in the manual and look at what you did and tell me if you think it is the same. Would you do that for me?
Not only that but the dia, gets thicker as the gaff wear and the gauge will compensate for that.
Only problem with sharp spikes is punky trunks, especially when you have to rig em down.
 
well dan. if i ever decide to waste money on having someone else sharpen my equipment i'll feel the same as you.

nothing wrong with the way i do it, the problem is the way i am explaining it. see, i try not to talk in jibberish circles in all my posts but i do try to convey the message i am trying to get across.

the point i am trying to convey here? if you cant sharpen your own spikes then maybe you shouldnt be using them.
 
well dan. if i ever decide to waste money on having someone else sharpen my equipment i'll feel the same as you.

nothing wrong with the way i do it, the problem is the way i am explaining it. see, i try not to talk in jibberish circles in all my posts but i do try to convey the message i am trying to get across.

the point i am trying to convey here? if you cant sharpen your own spikes then maybe you shouldnt be using them.

ouchie....I was waiting for someone to say it.

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

The more I can do myself, the more professional I feel, but I guess some see that differently.

Like rope splicing...can't wait to learn, but haven't the time just yet.
 
ouchie....I was waiting for someone to say it.

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

The more I can do myself, the more professional I feel, but I guess some see that differently.

Like rope splicing...can't wait to learn, but haven't the time just yet.

Hey now tough guys... I just said that the new gaffs are much more precise and lovely. I never could ascertain the exact same dimensions with hand filing and I notice a rather impressive diference on the factory edge. You know what 3/8 " feels like? Of course you do.
I haven't priced out the cheap stamped steel gauge but from what they tell me at reputable arborist supply houses is that its not just a quick file.
I also brought up that eventually we get used to the slow drop in performance in gear ( not related but fuel injectors for example) and adapt to its poor performance. Well i say NO, M and fe'r gonna work like I do and its gonna work for me, the best way possible. Of course discretion is used in prioritizing what we need and how its done.
Still yet my jibberish goes on but for sure I was curious to see if spending 75 bucks a year for new gaffs was something that should be calulated into my profit margin but more importantly, calculated in my saftey and comfort margin.
Good to know you cheap ass hacks can't hang.:blob2: That, of course could not be resisted but I didn't mean a dam thing by it.
So anyway what are you on. For ten cheap years I stuck with the steel Buck's with the long straight gaff before I tried the curved Klien's. The Kliens seem to be pretty decent as far as the way the gaffs works the wood, a little more responsive than the straight gaff type I think.
One thing for sure, a set of the Kliens in Ti sounds ticklelish. Another thing I find very interesting is the way the 'radius' meets the 'angle' which is cut precisley and made to cut and push together. I wouldn't mind having a set for hard wood and a duller pair for punky stuff. Maybe a gaff that kinda works like a ski pole and doesn't let in keep on digging in.:blob2:
 
ouchie....I was waiting for someone to say it.

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

The more I can do myself, the more professional I feel, but I guess some see that differently.

Like rope splicing...can't wait to learn, but haven't the time just yet.

Hey now tough guys... I just said that the new gaffs are much more precise and lovely. I never could ascertain the exact same dimensions with hand filing and I notice a rather impressive diference on the factory edge. You know what 3/8 " feels like? Of course you do.
I haven't priced out the cheap stamped steel gauge but from what they tell me at reputable arborist supply houses is that its not just a quick file.
I also brought up that eventually we get used to the slow drop in performance in gear ( not related but fuel injectors for example) and adapt to its poor performance. Well i say NO, M and fe'r gonna work like I do and its gonna work for me, the best way possible. Of course discretion is used in prioritizing what we need and how its done.
Still yet my jibberish goes on but for sure I was curious to see if spending 75 bucks a year for new gaffs was something that should be calulated into my profit margin but more importantly, calculated in my saftey and comfort margin.
Good to know you cheap ass hacks can't hang.:blob2: That, of course could not be resisted but I didn't mean a dam thing by it.
So anyway what are you on. For ten cheap years I stuck with the steel Buck's with the long straight gaff before I tried the curved Klien's. The Kliens seem to be pretty decent as far as the way the gaffs works the wood, a little more responsive than the straight gaff type I think.
One thing for sure, a set of the Kliens in Ti sounds ticklelish. Another thing I find very interesting is the way the 'radius' meets the 'angle' which is cut precisley and made to cut and push together. I wouldn't mind having a set for hard wood and a duller pair for punky stuff. Maybe a gaff that kinda works like a ski pole and doesn't let in keep on digging in.:blob2:
 
sorry about the 2 post, i don't know what happened and I tried to delete in but it didn't take. The bouncing blob? I don't know either.
 
Golly Dan, didn't think I was being tough on you, just making some observations. If getting your gaffs sharpened for you makes you feel more professional, confident, and safe, more power to you.

I’m just not at all surprised that someone made the comment they did. I have to admit that the thought crossed my mind as well, though briefly…as most thoughts do.

It’s kinda like if one of my guys didn’t want to learn to sharpen his own chain, then he wouldn’t have to worry about it anymore, as he can just drag and chuck.

Now, I don’t know if the same needs to apply to gaffs necessarily, but I can certainly see why some might feel this way. For example, I’ve got a guy that went to lineman’s school, but didn’t make it through a college level algebra class, so now he’s looking to make it into the industry via spending some time with a cheap hack. This young man can’t sharpen his own gaffs, but he sure knows how to sink em. Ran up a tree the other day like a pro, needed some coaching cause that ain’t no utility pole, but he really did well. I do think he'll eventually want to sharpen his own, but in the meantime it's not a needed skill.

My original reference might be summed up better with this:

"Jack of all trades, master of none" is a figure of speech used in reference to a person who is competent with many skills but is not outstanding in any one. The term has become a cliché and often used as an insult in its current form. Though this is only half of the quote. The full quote "Jack of all trades, master of none, though ofttimes better than master of one." is actually a compliment.

A Jack of all trades may also be a master of integration, as the individual knows enough from many learned trades and skills to be able to bring their disciplines together in a practical manner. Such a person is known as a polymath or a Renaissance man, and a typical example is someone like Leonardo da Vinci.


I think this explains the mindset of many a tree man, Dan.
 
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well dan. if i ever decide to waste money on having someone else sharpen my equipment i'll feel the same as you.

nothing wrong with the way i do it, the problem is the way i am explaining it. see, i try not to talk in jibberish circles in all my posts but i do try to convey the message i am trying to get across.

the point i am trying to convey here? if you cant sharpen your own spikes then maybe you shouldnt be using them.

Nice! Lol. Seriously, the way a friend taught me is: like oldirty said, put spike in vice (gloves are for girls and people that clean toilets for a living), file just the tip on the underside trying to keep the original angle you bring it into a small triangle that will match the other spike if done properly, when tip is sharp you should be able to hold it pointed up to sky and see a small triangle, then simply run your flat file along the rest of the underside to sharpen that. Done. I have never had a problem with this method, however if you really wanted to get them factory I suppose you could add the additional step of rounding the bottom of the triangle to the main body of spike underside. Hope this helps Pam- er I mean dan. :)
 
Biggy, lineman school is where I learned to sharpen gaffs. I am surprised to hear your buddy didn't learn this. Oh well, at least he can climb. You're right about trees not being poles, they are different. They teach you in lineman school to look up as you climb, not always a good practice in trees due to the imperfections in the limbs. Poles are easy as pie to climb, just use shorter gaffs, a different belt, and a belt like scarestrap.

Ahh, the days of lineschool, takes me back.
 
sharpening gaffs

as most people have said I do the same. Put them in a vise, only sharpen the bottom and always wear gloves. Make them look like they did when new. As I said always wear gloves, as my old foreman said your hands are your most valuable tools take care of them. .... Mike
 
Ok, just to clarify, the "underside" you guys keep referring to. If your gaff was buried in a tree, are you guys sharpening the 2 sides that faces the tree, or faces out away from the tree?

Everything I've read/seen in video about sharpening gaffs says to NEVER remove any material from the underside of the beehive (the side facing out away from the tree). They tell you to evenly remove material from the 2 "inner" edges that face the tree. Something about loss of strength, and removing that factory curve. :confused:
 
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