Reviving an old Homelite XL-700

Wesspur
Rugged made
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KRS

KRS

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Oct 19, 2008
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Location
Arizona
Serial number 2125556

Hadn't run in many years.... I got it going but I need a few items.

I need the two air filters: large one and the little one that bolts next to the carb.

Please see the pics of the sprocket... I'm guessing it's time for a new one? Where's the best source?

Any idea what year this saw is?

Thanks,

KRS

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Heres a few more...

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Been cleaning it up.

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Been cleaning it up.

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This is the "internal" filter... where do I find one of these?

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Time for a sprocket???
 
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The "internal" filter is more of a shield than a filter. Later models dispensed with this part. Yours can be cleaned up and it will serve as well a new one. I have had a few of these saws. I still have one that I enjoy firing up, but only for a few cuts before I pick up something about half as heavy.
 
Thank you, I'm glad it's a "runner" and not a "sitter".

The oil pump (manual) takes a bit of priming to get it pumping oil... is this normal or is there a rebuild of the oil pump in my future?

KRS
 
I checked the compression after I had it running.

I let it sit for a while and checked it.... 126 psi.

I checked it yesterday but it hadn't run in several years so I thought I'd check again today just to be sure.

KRS
 
Need the sprocket, drum, rim, whatever. Want to convert to 3/8 pitch while i am at it. That's what my ms310 uses, would like to keep one set of chains on hand.
 
KRS said:
Can anyone help with parts?
Click to expand...

Gee, you take a while on a project. 2008?

Parts: Look thru the site supporters at the top of the page. Edge and Engine, Chainsawr and Baileys. There is always evilbay. Some sprocket/drum and rim/drum on there now.

I'd run .404 on it with a 20" bar or 3/8" with a 24".

126 psi is a little weak but will run acceptable. North of 135 is better. 150+ and you will have to eat your Wheaties to pull him over.

My Fisher-Price XL-800.
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Ya, we moved and I got sidetracked, back on my projects now
 
Found a source for a drum and rim sprocket (can't decide between 7 or 8 tooth sprocket).

Converting to 3/8", not sure which would be better.

I have what appears to be the original bar, it's Homelite C4575861.

I laid it next to a new extra Stihl bar I have, a Rollomatic ES, nose stamped H4, bar stamped 3003 000 8822 3/8" JB, 20", 72 link.

It's a little longer than the Homelite bar (about an inch), wonder if it'll work.

I've read about the differences between .404 and 3/8. The Homelite bar is very worn, and made for .404; it seems like a 3/8 ought to work just fine with it though for a little while until I can find a replacement?

Thanks for the help, vintage saws are still new to me and I don't want to screw up.

KRS
 
I'm also going to pull the muffler tonight and take a picture of the piston.

Let's see if I need to put in a set of rings (which will be a first for me) to help with compression.

KRS
 
If that saw is healthy, it will run a 3/-8 sprocket just fine with a 20" bar. Your original bar is a hardnose and had .404 correct? If so, then you will need a loop of 3/8-.063G chain. If the bar is 20", then it should take a 70DL loop. 21" would take a 72DL loop.
 
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Yes, hardnose. On my kindle at work, so typing short msgs
 
KRS said:
Thought 0.050 gauge right?
Click to expand...

Check the chain you have on that bar now. .404 bars on that era of Homelite should be. 063G. You will use the same gauge of 3/8" chain as you had in .404. Now if that bar originally had 3/8" pitch when the saw was new, then it is more likely to be .050G (and somebody swapped on .404-.050G chain). .404-.050G chain is not common anymore. You must check you bar groove measurement now to determine what gauge chain you need. .050G, .058G, and .063G 3/8" pitch chain is all easy to come by.
 
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