Jonsered 70e idling tuning questions

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holycow72

holycow72

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Hello...I've included some pictures of my first chainsaw rebuild...things went well with a lot of help from folks on this forum...thank you!!

I had a friend who knows a lot more than me adjust the high/low and throttle on the carb after it was rebuilt...he couldn't get it just right...so I'm asking for help again...He said that the idle seems to "pulsate" and he's having difficulty gettting it to idle low w/o the chain/clutch engaging....other than idling he says that it's awesome...and he understands now, why these are considered to be such good saws...

he did say I need to tighten up my starter cord...how "tight" should I set it...

Any and all advise is much appreciated....Thanks again guys...:confused:
 
holycow72 said:
Hello...I've included some pictures of my first chainsaw rebuild...things went well with a lot of help from folks on this forum...thank you!!

I had a friend who knows a lot more than me adjust the high/low and throttle on the carb after it was rebuilt...he couldn't get it just right...so I'm asking for help again...He said that the idle seems to "pulsate" and he's having difficulty gettting it to idle low w/o the chain/clutch engaging....other than idling he says that it's awesome...and he understands now, why these are considered to be such good saws...

he did say I need to tighten up my starter cord...how "tight" should I set it...

Any and all advise is much appreciated....Thanks again guys...:confused:
Click to expand...

That is a great looking saw there! It looks like it is new. The pulsing idle could be a result of many things. It could just be a bad needle or dirty needle hole in the carb. It could also be bad crank seals or a leak in the crankcase somewhere.

I would open up the carb and give it a good cleaning with a carb spray.
 
the 1 I have idles on the slow side, I replaced the clutch spring and the chain engauges at the same speed. just set idle and low speed mix so the chain doesn't spin when warmed up. it may jerk around a bit untill its warmed up
 
70e

I rebuilt the carb just a few days ago...and replaced the needle...I did srpay/soak in cleaner...it looked clean before I put it back together...could something have gotten in there when it first started uP?

As far as the clutch spring..I didn't replace, but disassembled...cleaned well!...can put back together...

Crankcase...I don't see any leaks anywhere....is there something else to look for?

When we tried to get it to idle llllooooowww...she'd die out...speed it up..and the clutch/chain has a mind of it's own....
 
holycow72 said:
I rebuilt the carb just a few days ago...and replaced the needle...I did srpay/soak in cleaner...it looked clean before I put it back together...could something have gotten in there when it first started uP?

As far as the clutch spring..I didn't replace, but disassembled...cleaned well!...can put back together...

Crankcase...I don't see any leaks anywhere....is there something else to look for?

When we tried to get it to idle llllooooowww...she'd die out...speed it up..and the clutch/chain has a mind of it's own....
Click to expand...

The springs could be worn out. If you hold the saw in different positions, does the idle speed change? Sometimes even after a good cleaning, some junk is left at the bottom of the needle. If you spray it out with air or carb cleaner, and hold it up to the light. If there is something in there, no light will get through.
 
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Simmer down

When you cleaned the carburetor did you pull the welch plugs and clean all the idle passages?
 
Ok...

What did you use to pull the plugs and what did you use to install the new ones

What tool did you use to get out the plugs?
 
Last edited:
Hold the phone

Welch plugs do not just pop out.

The plugs are under the metering diaphragm and cover where the needle and seat are.

If you were able to get them out by hand and if you just stuck them in by hand the saw would not run at all.
 
Get your camera

And take off your carb.

But if you want to rule out case leaks use the WD40 with the extension tube behind the flywheel then behind the clutch then all joints between the back of the carburetor and the cylinder
 
Get your camera

And take off your carb.

But if you want to rule out case leaks use the WD40 with the extension tube behind the flywheel then behind the clutch then all joints between the back of the carburetor and the cylinder

Case leaks can cause surging but usually not
 

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