024/026 Frankensaw Project

[gritz]

Okay, so I've been lurking on the forum for awhile and now have something I think may be worth posting up. My newest project is to get my father a saw that he can run a 16" bar on to cut firewood. He wants something bigger than his little Husqvarna (40cc, not sure what model, maybe a 142??) but light enough for him to carry around without being a burden. I looked around for a saw to get him used, or fix up a little, but everything seemed to be too big, too small, too worn, or too expensive. I now have 5 saws (3-024s and 2-026s) and plan to piece together some type of "frankensaw" for my dad. I also have a new aftermarket cylinder for an 026. Here's a couple pictures of what I have right now.

So far it looks like I've got one broken crankcase (literally, the case is broken), two fried cylinders, a whole lot of missing random pieces, and several extra bits and pieces. The good thing is that the total cost of this project so far is $0. I ended up trading a little labor for them, actually, but I don't consider working on saws to be labor. I call it fun! Any suggestions, or words of caution are greatly appreciated.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Looks like you have plenty there to make one good running 026. They make a fine 50 cc class firewood saw. The radial/oil seals under the flywheel are one thing that should be checked closely before putting one to work. Check all rubber parts like the intake manifold, gasline, filter and impulse line for cracks or tears. I wouls also rebuild the carb with a new kit and the saw should be trouble free for quite some time.

 

[H 2 H]

Okay, so I've been lurking on the forum for awhile and now have something I think may be worth posting up. My newest project is to get my father a saw that he can run a 16" bar on to cut firewood. He wants something bigger than his little Husqvarna (40cc, not sure what model, maybe a 142??) but light enough for him to carry around without being a burden. I looked around for a saw to get him used, or fix up a little, but everything seemed to be too big, too small, too worn, or too expensive. I now have 5 saws (3-024s and 2-026s) and plan to piece together some type of "frankensaw" for my dad. I also have a new aftermarket cylinder for an 026. Here's a couple pictures of what I have right now.

So far it looks like I've got one broken crankcase (literally, the case is broken), two fried cylinders, a whole lot of missing random pieces, and several extra bits and pieces. The good thing is that the total cost of this project so far is $0. I ended up trading a little labor for them, actually, but I don't consider working on saws to be labor. I call it fun! Any suggestions, or words of caution are greatly appreciated.

Kinda wish those were seating on my bench right now :msp_wink:

Those are easy to work on I have a 026 just wish it was a 026S

I would ask members here if they had a OEM cylinder and do some trading for the cylinder

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Great saws and worth the effort to get one good runner outta all the parts ya have there. Bear in mind that an 024 itself doesn't necessarily have the overall compatibility parts-wise with an 026 that may initially seem so convenient.

An 024 Super is essentially an 026. Anything else 024 has a different case/crank/stroke, so those parts won't swap/interchange. Just about everything else will.

Do some searching and you'll find tons of info on these saws. Lots of us cut our teeth rebuilding the rascals and learned about the flywheel side crank seal the hard way.

Very much worth your effort to dive into that pile o' parts head first and get a runner goin' for your dad.

Lotsa help here if you run into trouble.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I have a 026 just wish it was a 026S

026S?

opcorn:

 

[nstueve]

the best saw you can make will be a 026 saw with the 44mm OEM cylinder, with a 026 crankcase that has a side chain tentioner. I also like the translucent gas tank so you can see when how much gas you have and when you need to fill up. Also look through the carbs. The best carb you can put on a 026 is a walbro 22b/g or even better yet a walbro 194.

 

[H 2 H]

026S?

opcorn:

Sorry 026 PRO :msp_wink:

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Sorry 026 PRO :msp_wink:

Jes doin' my small part to try keepin' it real 'round here - hehe.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

The best carb you can put on a 026 is a walbro 22b/g or even better yet a walbro 194.

Yay!!! Another WT22 fan!

 

[Trx250r180]

these are good little saws ,i have a 026 pro i use a lot around the yard

 

[gritz]

Thanks for the replies. I have new seals for both sides and I'll replace basically all the rubbery bits mentioned regardless so that my dad won't have to worry about anything for awhile. I did a little more fiddling last night and I think that I'm going to end up making the main effort on the 026 (Pro?) that has a decompression valve, adjustable oiler, and heated grips. It didn't have a cover or any other markings that distinguish it other than a tiny 026 on the sticker on the inertia bar/brake handle. I have four different carbs that I can choose from (more if I go back and dig around). I don't think there was a WT22 in the mix, but they all look pretty promising. It looks like I'll be making a frankencarb for this frankensaw, lol. I'll post up the list of carbs that I have this evening along with my progress.

BTW, wasn't the difference between the 024 and 024 pro just a longer stroke (both 42mm piston?) and the 026 has a bigger bore? If I can get a 44mm piston on the longer stroke, then I should have a good bit of torque in that little saw, right (if the piston will still clear the combustion chamber?)?

 

[nstueve]

Yay!!! Another WT22 fan!

the walbro 194 is still the best for this saw but the 22b/g is 2nd in line. You can also use the wt427 off a ms260 too. You just have to swap out the diaphram cover (ie: auto compensator cover than has the built in tube running to the air filter) with an old style carb cover than can be found on any 024/026, 009/012, etc carb.

Thanks for the replies. I have new seals for both sides and I'll replace basically all the rubbery bits mentioned regardless so that my dad won't have to worry about anything for awhile. I did a little more fiddling last night and I think that I'm going to end up making the main effort on the 026 (Pro?) that has a decompression valve, adjustable oiler, and heated grips. It didn't have a cover or any other markings that distinguish it other than a tiny 026 on the sticker on the inertia bar/brake handle. I have four different carbs that I can choose from (more if I go back and dig around). I don't think there was a WT22 in the mix, but they all look pretty promising. It looks like I'll be making a frankencarb for this frankensaw, lol. I'll post up the list of carbs that I have this evening along with my progress.

BTW, wasn't the difference between the 024 and 024 pro just a longer stroke (both 42mm piston?) and the 026 has a bigger bore? If I can get a 44mm piston on the longer stroke, then I should have a good bit of torque in that little saw, right (if the piston will still clear the combustion chamber?)?

024: 42mm bore, 30mm stroke
024S or 024 super : 42mm bore, 32mm stroke
026: 44mm bore, 32mm stroke

DO NOT use a 44mm piston and cylinder on a 30mm stroke crank case! You'll barely get more power than a 024! You can use a 026 crank case to make a 024 super but you're just not going to be happy with the power going the other way. If you have a 026 with broken crank case, you can swap it's crank into a 024 crankcase and make that saw a 024super or 026. Whatever carb you use, just check and see if it has all THREE set screws for high low and idle adjustments. For some reason Stihl made a fixed high jet carb and it doesn't work real great with 024s/026 saws. I'd also recommend popping an extra hole or two in the muffler so the saw breathes better and will have better chain speed acceleration.

The decomp ports on these saws are worthless. Stihl just put the decomp ports on these saws so they could talk guys into spending another $75-$100 for the "PRO," and what amounted to a decomp port and adjustable oiler... In hinde sight after making myself a couple "Pro" saws... the non-adjustable oilers pump just as much oil to the bar, and the decomp valves are just another spot for the cylinder to bleed and loose compression and something more to break. Unless you have the saw professionaly ported and the compression is 220psi+ you don't need the decomp. I've bought plugs for all the "026pro" cylinders i've ever worked on. They don't save your shoulder all that much strain only being a 50cc saw. Ask any guy who runs 026's and they'll say the same... "Pro" on a 50cc saw is a gimic to make people spend more.

Lastly, as I said above... Make sure you use a case that has the side mounted chain tentioner. Some of the 024 saws had front mounted tentioners and they are a PITA to deal with since they always clog with saw dust. It would make it just that much nicer/easier for your old man to use.

 

[gritz]

the walbro 194 is still the best for this saw but the 22b/g is 2nd in line. You can also use the wt427 off a ms260 too. You just have to swap out the diaphram cover (ie: auto compensator cover than has the built in tube running to the air filter) with an old style carb cover than can be found on any 024/026, 009/012, etc carb.



024: 42mm bore, 30mm stroke
024S or 024 super : 42mm bore, 32mm stroke
026: 44mm bore, 32mm stroke

DO NOT use a 44mm piston and cylinder on a 30mm stroke crank case! You'll barely get more power than a 024! You can use a 026 crank case to make a 024 super but you're just not going to be happy with the power going the other way. If you have a 026 with broken crank case, you can swap it's crank into a 024 crankcase and make that saw a 024super or 026. Whatever carb you use, just check and see if it has all THREE set screws for high low and idle adjustments. For some reason Stihl made a fixed high jet carb and it doesn't work real great with 024s/026 saws. I'd also recommend popping an extra hole or two in the muffler so the saw breathes better and will have better chain speed acceleration.

The decomp ports on these saws are worthless. Stihl just put the decomp ports on these saws so they could talk guys into spending another $75-$100 for the "PRO," and what amounted to a decomp port and adjustable oiler... In hinde sight after making myself a couple "Pro" saws... the non-adjustable oilers pump just as much oil to the bar, and the decomp valves are just another spot for the cylinder to bleed and loose compression and something more to break. Unless you have the saw professionaly ported and the compression is 220psi+ you don't need the decomp. I've bought plugs for all the "026pro" cylinders i've ever worked on. They don't save your shoulder all that much strain only being a 50cc saw. Ask any guy who runs 026's and they'll say the same... "Pro" on a 50cc saw is a gimic to make people spend more.

Lastly, as I said above... Make sure you use a case that has the side mounted chain tentioner. Some of the 024 saws had front mounted tentioners and they are a PITA to deal with since they always clog with saw dust. It would make it just that much nicer/easier for your old man to use.

That's basically what I'd thought. I'm putting on my boots now and heading out to see what I can come up with for carbs. I am not worried about a decomp, but I thought it might be nice for dad to have. The one that has a decomp will get a plug for sure as the saw has been dropped and bent the decomp, it holds pressure, but I don't trust it. I'm just going to send a plug with the saw for Dad so he can plug it if he decides he doesn't want it. Well, on my way to tinker. I'll report back soon.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

the walbro 194 is still the best for this saw but the 22b/g is 2nd in line.
026: 44mm bore, 32mm stroke

Agreed on the carbs. I just find it interesting that a WT-22 is often overlooked as a perfectly adequate, fully adjustable carb as a replacement for the fixed-jet carbs on even a moderately modded 026. Heavily modded? Go with the extra fuel flow of the WT194 -- and pay the extra $$$ it's gonna cost.

As for bore, let's not forget the later 44.7mm version.

 

[nstueve]

Agreed on the carbs. I just find it interesting that a WT-22 is often overlooked as a perfectly adequate, fully adjustable carb as a replacement for the fixed-jet carbs on even a moderately modded 026. Heavily modded? Go with the extra fuel flow of the WT194 -- and pay the extra $$$ it's gonna cost.

As for bore, let's not forget the later 44.7mm version.

I don't like the 44.7mm as they usually have worse port timing than the 44mm cylinders. The "D" shaped combustion chambered 44mm cylinders also had higher stock compression if I remember correctly...

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I don't like the 44.7mm as they usually have worse port timing than the 44mm cylinders. The "D" shaped combustion chambered 44mm cylinders also had higher stock compression if I remember correctly...

Point was if he happens to have a 44.7 cylinder on the 026 and only needs a piston for it, well, 44mm may be a little sloppy!

 

[gritz]

Point was if he happens to have a 44.7 cylinder on the 026 and only needs a piston for it, well, 44mm may be a little sloppy!

How do I tell whether it's the 44 or 44.7? I'm assuming I'd find a part number, or other marking somewhere, but I'm too lazy to go back out and look right now.

 

[gritz]

Well, it appears that I have two WT-194s, a WTE-5 (???), and a WT-394. They all have the same bore and look pretty much identical. I'm researching now to see more about the WTE-5 and WT-394 to see the specs. After closer inspection, the one WT-194 is pretty rough. It appears somebody had it apart before and wasn't too careful or knowledgeable. They took the butterfly out and marred it up before they put it in backwards (not a huge deal, but it always makes me wonder what else they didn't pay attention to) and possibly removed the welch plug at some point. It was all mashed in there funny. I'll probably pull it for cleaning anyway if I decide to use it. I'm going to post a picture separately because it takes a mod to approve my posts first.

The worst part about tonight was that I'm all out of small needles for the carb! I grabbed the last k20 kit I had and sure enough, I'd already robbed the small needle out of it. That'll cause me a little delay. Maybe one of the other carbs uses the larger needles which I have a bunch of still.

 

[gritz]

And the picture of the carbs.

 

[gritz]

Its alive!!

Its alive! Barely, but it makes noise. I think it'll run fine once I get the rest of the pieces on there and tune the carb. Here's a video of it running. This is with the WT-194, btw.


If you watch, you can see a screw pop off when I first rev the saw. This is where it came from.

I guess I'll have to drill and tap the hole. I don't think I have a tap that small. Hopefully there's one at the shop.