026 rebuild

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doc874

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Hi. I am currently rebuilding my old 026 i had a neck of a time breaking apart the case halves but have succeeded with no damage to them. I did manage to pop the bearing out along with the crank shaft which is why i am writing this now. My question is this, can i reheat and reinstall this bearing, it works fine no grabbing or damage etc... I am replacing the oil seals and of course the gaskets. What say you?

Doc
 
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Hi. I am currently rebuilding my old 026 i had a neck of a time breaking apart the case halves but have succeeded with no damage to them. I did manage to pop the bearing put along with the crank shaft which ic why i am writing this now. My question is this, can i reheat this an reinstall this bearing, it works fine n grabbing or damage etc... I am replacing the oil seals and of course the gaskets. What say you?

Doc

IMO you should change the bearins too since theyre so cheap and save alot of trouble since if your oil seals are leaking its quite likely that your bearings will fail in next 100 hours or so...
 
I agree, replace the bearings. Im glad i didn't just put new seals in cuz when i was tearing the saw apart, i found out one of the bearings was seized.
 
Hey: Where can I get a work table like yours?:)

Its easy! Just produce kids and the rest will fall into place. Before ya know it, you'll have a work bench just like mine, along with the bills and puke etc... Lol:hmm3grin2orange:
 
No reason at all to replace the bearings as long as they're smooth and had no radial play before disassembly. To reinstall, heat the clutch side case half to 300F for 20 minutes in the oven, and the crank will go in by hand. Just be prepaired to knock it in if necessary. The heat from the case will quickly tranfer to the bearing and it will not go in easily. You can then pull the crank back into the flywheel side bearing with the case bolts. Make sure to use a criss-cross pattern to pull the cases together evenly. Only a little turn on each bolt at a time. You will then need to lightly tap the ends of the crank to relieve axial stress to get the crank to spin easily. Really, it's much easier than it sounds.
 
Don't "knock it in"... the force would be directly on the bearing race, and that nice smooth bearing you started with will get real rough. I'd pull it off the crank and put it back in with some care.

On the 026, press it in TOWARDS the interior, then mount the oil pump and press it back until it mates exactly with the oil pump flange. This sets the correct distance in the casing and sets the required tolerances for the clutch and pump drive. With a 2 ton arbor press, you don't need to heat the casing, but if you do, it will just drop in and bottom on the oil pump nicely... but us a METAL PRO oil pump for this - not the plastic version...

Check my responses in the "Need help splitting my 066 case" thread. The process is identical with an 026. Starting around post #20.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=40590
 
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IMO you should change the bearins too since theyre so cheap and save alot of trouble since if your oil seals are leaking its quite likely that your bearings will fail in next 100 hours or so...

Sorry to disagree.. The clutch side is not cheap.... and the bearing condition has little to do with the oil seals....
 
Thanks guys for the tips. Still need the re-order/part #'s for the bearings ( both ) so i can see if scare-bay has any new ones. Anybody have these #'s or know a good source to supply these?

Doc
 
Found the part #'s called my dealer and yes Lake you are right the bearings are very expensive per/side.

Doc
 

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