026 throttle question

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Finnbear

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I'm working on Dad's 026 which has a few problems but the one I need some help with concerns the choke/throttle trigger assembly. When the choke is in the full position (red lever all the way down) and the trigger is locked should the carb butterfly be open somewhat? Doesn't a saw usually start with a partially open throttle when the choke is closed?
 
I'm working on Dad's 026 which has a few problems but the one I need some help with concerns the choke/throttle trigger assembly. When the choke is in the full position (red lever all the way down) and the trigger is locked should the carb butterfly be open somewhat? Doesn't a saw usually start with a partially open throttle when the choke is closed?

Yes.............I believe its like, 20 deg open........but I'm not sure on that,
I'm sure someone in the know will............................
 
Yeah, the throttle should be cracked a little. I believe w/o one in front of me.....
 
An 026 choke is in the air filter, similar to an 028, but to answer your question, yes, the throttle plate has to be open a little, not much, about one to two turns after the idle screw contacts the throttle plate lever which your linkage from the trigger is attached too. You might also want to check and make sure the linkage isn't bent holding the throttle plate open more than it should regardless of the idle screw setting. If the linkage is bent it could also affect your WOT by not allowing your throttle plate to open up to the max.

I have had two 026's with that bent linkage problem, how I don't know, but it can be a bugger to figure out if everything else checks out on the saw.
 
I'm working on Dad's 026 which has a few problems but the one I need some help with concerns the choke/throttle trigger assembly. When the choke is in the full position (red lever all the way down) and the trigger is locked should the carb butterfly be open somewhat? Doesn't a saw usually start with a partially open throttle when the choke is closed?

You likely have a part broken off your throttle shaft or trigger. The throttle will lock in the fast idle speed postion - either choke or the next position up - it just opens a crack... goes to idle when you blip the throttle.

A bear to start without it.
 
My 028 starts at partially open throttle and as soon as I blip the throttle and the trigger releases it comes back down to idle. This saw (026) must have a bent linkage since the locked throttle/choke position leaves the throttle plates in the carb in the same closed position as when the choke is in the "Run" position (choke off, trigger at idle). In thefull choke/locked throttle position the linkage is loose and sort of floppy and in my estimation should be pushing the throttle lever on the carb just a bit to slighyly open the throttle plate in the carb. Its possible that there may be some small piece broken off some part of the throttle assembly but I don't think so. I'll completely disassemble and scrub each part clean tonite and inspect them closer but my first look last night didn't reveal anything broken. One thing I did notice is that the idle speed screw doesn't seem to change the throttle plate position no matter how far it is screwed in or out. Maybe the arm on the throttle shaft is bent and the screw can't contact like it should. I may pull the carb tonite for a closer inspection.
A little history on this saw - it was Grandpa's and when he moved to assisted living last spring he gave it to Dad who put it on the shelf next to his other saws and forgot about it. My 028 tried to kill itself this winter when a wrist pin keeper lost one of its "ears" which caught in a port and gouged the piston and cylinder (which WERE in very good shape otherwise). I got the 026 from Dad with the idea of tuning it up and using it until I got my 028 back together and here I am. The 026 was always hard starting when cold but seemed to run OK once warmed up. It would often die when coming back down to idle but you could pull it once and fire it back up and keep cutting. You just couldn't set it down and let it idle or it would stall. The idle speed screw not contacting the throttle lever appears that it would definitely cause the stalling at idle since idle is at a fully closed throttle position.
I think Grandpa got this saw from one of his buddies, an old logger named "Mountain Man McCool" when it was nearly new and I'd like to keep it around for sentimental reasons more than anything. McCool was a BIG ham fisted guy (still is but now he's really old and his health is poor) who wore a big floppy leather hat, often carried a snub nosed S&W 44 Magnum inside his coat, a flask of whiskey in his pocket, and always had a wad of chewing tobacco in his mouth. He was one of those guys who just crushes your hand when he shakes hands with you just because he could. He could use more cuss words in one sentence than anyone I've ever met and usually had a bit of spit from his chew dribbled into his beard. I remember once when I was a kid seeing him pick up a 4ft long piece of an oak log that weighed at least 300lbs and put it on his shoulder. He collected all sorts of stuff, guns, old tools, Indian relics, amd more. They just don't make 'em like McCool anymore.
 
Great story...


Back to the 026--- It's rare to find a "bent" throttle rod...unless someone has previously messed with it. Don't "adjust" it unless you are really sure it's bent... If you press the trigger and the throttle opens fully, the rod is correct.
 
It doesn't look bent out of shape-all the bends look factory. What about the partial throttle/full choke thing? Is it my imagination that my 028 throttle would be partly opened when the choke is full on? I can't check it right now because its in about a hundred pieces on my workbench waiting on a P&C kit.
 
Still not there

I fixed the broken clutch spring and put the saw back together. It is still hard starting and the throttle is not open at all with the choke on/trigger locked. In this position the linkage is actually loose and putting no pressure on the throttle arm of the carb. I tweaked the linkage very slightly to lengthen it so that it is under compression and the throttle plate is slightly open when the choke is on/trigger locked. The saw now starts OK but still doesn't run worth a damn. If I throttle it it seems to run OK but when it comes back to idle it wants to die. It is sluggish/hesitates going from idle to high speed and then takes off. I started with both the H and L screw out 1 turn. A quarter turn either direction on the L screw and it still won't idle. This saw has one of those black plastic carb vents like was mentioned in the Stihl Tank Vents post from last nite http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=45911 and it seeps a good bit when the saw is not setting level (installing the bar/chain). Could this give me any problems? The saw has been sitting for almost 2 years so I'm thinking maybe a carb kit is in order-maybe there is some old gas crud clogging up the carb. This sound correct or am I full of it? I guess I also should suspect the fuel filter since it sat around with old gas in it for a long time. How do you reach the filter inside the tank? My service manual tells me this symptom may also be bad seals or a leaky manifold or base gasket. I can check the manifold and I'll have to rig up a leak tester setup this weekend. Someone here posted a great DIY leak test setup a while back. Guess I'll have to use the search and find it and print it out at work tomorrow.
 
Definitely change your fuel filter (just hook it out with a wire), and look in the carb at the inlet screen and general condition.

Did you manage to get the LA screw to contact the throttle arm plate?
How's the compression?
 
Took the carb off tonite and the fuel line fell apart as the carb came out. The portion inside the tank is all mushy like the gas is breaking down the rubber. I assume the replacement fuel line will better withstand today's gas additives? My filter is an orange and black gizmo with Stihl's name on it. Looks just like the one in the Bailey's catalog (Item# 14588). The black part is a rubber cap that holds the filter element inside and there is a little slug of metal (zinc?) that is starting to disintegrate between the cap and filter element. I assume the whole filter is a throw away and buy new kind of thing. I remember reading a while back about one type of filter to avoid but I couldn't come up with it in a search. Is this the one or can I just buy the same as I had? Once I got the carb apart I did find some gray/black sludge in the inlet screen so once I get the carb cleaned and a new fuel line & filter I hope this thing will run like it should.
 
Chuck that junk filter as far as you can and buy a new one (Black/white - Stihl only) - it's likely the orginal filter that came with the saw. Replace the fuel hose... It's been superceded many times so get it from your Stihl dealer. There are are three styles so make sure you get the correct hose. Take the tank with you if your unsure. Check your inlet screen in the carb - the old filters tend to fall apart and get stuck in the carb screen.

Your throttle interlock issue... The high speed start is an interlock between the trigger and the master throttle lever. It's very likely that your throttle lever has the tiny arm or tip broken off. As I mentioned in an earlier post, if you operate the trigger and the carb butterfly opens fully, that all it has to do - the rest is a mechanical interlock with the trigger.
 
Disassembled the carb and cleaned thoroughly. Put the new fuel line and filter in. Installed the tank vent flapper (it was missing from the saw and let it drool fuel all over itself every time I tipped the saw). Set the L and H screw at 1 turn out and put it all back together. It took a dozen or so pulls on the starter to get fuel into the cylinder and then it fired right up. I adjusted the L screw and then once it warmed up set the idle speed. It runs perfect now-I cut up a couple big pieces (24"dia.x3') of Sassafrass into firewood lengths tonight and it ate them up. I also limbed and blocked a nasty old paper birch that came down in the back yard during a storm in February.
The throttle interlock worked fine but it did not open the throttle at all when locked so I slightly un-bent the linkage rod to lengthen it so it would start choked/partial throttle. The idle speed adjustment screw did not contact the arm on the throttle plate rod at all so a slight tweak on the arm allowed it to function also. Now I understand why this saw was so damn hard starting and wouldn't idle for Grandpa and Dad. I don't know who worked on this saw before but they had it screwed up just enough that it was a real pain to use. Dad should like it now.
An odd thing about this saw is that it has a 20" Sandvik Speed-Tip bar in .325"-.058" gauge. Boy do I like that 20" on a light saw like the 026. I'm 6'3" and not bending over as far to limb a downed tree is nice. My experience with small-mid size Stihls tells me they would normally come with .325"-.063" chain. The saw came with a rim sprocket so I guess any Stihl mount .325 bar would work but the .058" gauge seems odd to me. Maybe it is a regional thing and is more common in PA where Grandpa lives. I picked up two new Oregon chains at the Stihl shop Friday and this thing is ready for the woodlot. Thanks to everyone who helped with info on this saw/repair-you guys are the best.
:rock:
 
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