028 Super Muff Mod, no brazing

[scootr]

I wanted to add a pipe to muffler after opening it up, can't have exhaust getting my purty saw dirty. I am on the mountain, no welding shops up here. I don't have the correct setup to braze with, so I started thinking, how can I attach a pipe without welding it? JB!!

I run down to the Hardware store, see what they have. Quicksteel, made by JB. This stuff is like the JB stick with steel particles in it. I had a piece of 1/2" aluminum tube, took the hacksaw and cut some grooves around it for the JB to get a bite on. Whip out the Dremel with a wire wheel on it and clean the rust off the exhaust cover. Cut a piece off the JB stick, knead it until it is all one color. Put the pipe on, start putting the JB on there, pressing in tight all around it.

This stuff starts to harden rather quickly in the hot weather, work fast. In about 5 min. it is hard enough to start shaping with the Dremel and a sanding drum. By the time I get shaped and painted, it is setup. 1 hour, start to finish. Now to see if it holds up, ran it for about half an hour, solid as steel. I will take it out this weekend to see how it holds up and report back.

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[woodchuck361]

Sure looks good. The test will be if it holds up to the vibs. A for effort. Might want to add another bar nut though

 

[Evanrude]

Yup, looks nice. Those 028's are sure a great saw.

 

[teacherman]

That saw looks like it is brand new! :greenchainsaw:
Nice header pipe.

 

[scootr]

Woodchuck, had to steal a bar nut from this to use on an Ebay saw. Got her ready to go now.


Teacherman, yep, it looks and runs like new. I love to use it, but I want to keep it in new condition. I watched one like this go for $380.00 on Ebay.

 

[teacherman]

Woodchuck, had to steal a bar nut from this to use on an Ebay saw. Got her ready to go now.


Teacherman, yep, it looks and runs like new. I love to use it, but I want to keep it in new condition. I watched one like this go for $380.00 on Ebay.

I wonder if Stage 6 of CAD is when you affix clear protective film to the outside of your saws to protect the paint while you're using them....:greenchainsaw:

Yeah, $380, that's a lot of money.

Does anybody know what that NIB 028 finally went for the second time around?

 

[scootr]

Where do you get that protective film?

Are you talking about the one that had a buy it now price of 750.00? If so, I think it went for about 575.00.

 

[teacherman]

Where do you get that protective film?

:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:

Yup, Stage 6.

I don't know if there is a relatively durable, heat resistant, transparent film that is removable, and leaves no adhesive residue. I was thinking of the stuff that comes on a new cell phone, protecting the plastic display. Heck it even covers the nameplate on some Stihl saws. But it would need to be more durable than that.:greenchainsaw:

 

[husky455rancher]

looks really good man. jb is the best im interested in seeing how long it will hold up under the heat.

 

[kevin j]

clear protective film,. now that is symptom of obsession.

But it is sold by motorcycle shops to protect plastics and swing arms from boot marks. try dennis kirk online I think they have in the dirt bike category.

neither saws nor trials bikes look like new for me, but I've heard the film works well for those who do use it.

 

[woodchuck361]

Hey they make that clear film for the front of cars and bikes. friend of mine has it on the front of his bike. he dropped it and we all though it got a bad gouge in the front plastic faring. He pulled the plastic film off and it was like new underneath! the film took all the damage and it left no adhesive on the bike. Don't know what its called but I know it does WORK.

 

[scootr]

Might park this one

I may just park this one, I put together a running 28WB yesterday from 2 parts saws. All I need is the internal brake assy. It won't win any beauty contest, but it runs like a champ. Might use it for most cutting jobs. I hate to mess up my purty one. They bring a good price when in this condition.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?p=1055201#post1055201

 

[Lakeside53]

Quicksteel.... I couldn't find the data sheet on that exact product, but most epoxys are 250F to 500F rated.... JBWeld is 500F, the rest of their products are 300F...


Use the saw hard and the epoxy will fail. It won't "melt' - just crumble or crack away.. Exhaust gases can approach 1450F, and 1000F is very common.

 

[andrethegiant70]

Quicksteel.... I couldn't find the data sheet on that exact product, but most epoxys are 250F to 500F rated.... JBWeld is 500F, the rest of their products are 300F...


Use the saw hard and the epoxy will fail. It won't "melt' - just crumble or crack away.. Exhaust gases can approach 1450F, and 1000F is very common.

I'll agree... I used it to shlep together some auto exhaust parts (oh, those college days). It held up for a spell but it basically it ended up breaking away from the metal in large chunks (as Andy suggests). I think the stuff just doesn't shrink and swell at the same rate as the metal.

That is one NICE looking 028... a shrink wrap candidate for sure.