mechaniacal
ArboristSite Lurker
First, This site has a remarkable amount of information. Thanks to those who make it go.
I see people have already asked all the good questions about this saw.
So here is my story. I have a 028 WB that my dad bought new for firewood/ homeowner use. All the castings appear to be date stamped 78, which makes sense. He gave it to me 6-7 years ago because it was a finicky runner and that whole hand it down to your son and then upgrade thing. I cleaned and reset the carb and had it running well for while. Over the next few years, it seemed that it would need to be re-tuned often to keep it running well. Latest symptom was that it would idle, but not accelerate or rev. It seemed that feathering the throttle just right would get it to rev, but if it sat while I moved logs around, it wouldn't rev again until I feathered the throttle just right.
I was fixated on the fuel delivery. I wore out the H&L screws. I think I have chased my tail with a comedy of errors in mis-reading coincidences as cause and effect for years. The saw would run great in spurts. Recently, I re-built the carb and pressure/vac tested the crankcase. The piston and cylinder appear remarkably clean for age and use. There are no signs of poor compression.
I just put a spark tester on the saw. That is a tool which I have owned and used for years and never thought to introduce it to the saw. It showed intermittent spark that corresponds with the engine surging. There is a full bright spark every 2nd or 3rd engine revolution, dim or no spark on revolutions between firing. I think the points, coil, and or condenser are the root of the problem.
Based on posts here and a downloaded parts list...
I will replace the coil with the solid state ignition # 0000 400 1300, doesn't require pulling the flywheel and removing the points/ condenser.
I would like to put in the chain brake option Kit # 1118 007 1002 This has the 1st gen brake band that is open IE. does not wrap completely around the clutch drum. Pictures of this chain brake match my saw.
My sprocket "1118 642 1205" has a chipped tooth and is an older design that is separate from the clutch drum. I would like to get a rim sprocket kit which is shown as 1118 007 1003 or an aftermarket.
My questions.
Did I miss anything with the coil, brake, and sprocket? Other suggestions?
Any chance I can find a part saw that has all this? I think saws with the chain brake I need will have points and saws with solid state ignitions will have 2nd gen brakes.
The case is leaking bar oil at the lowest point in the tank. I think I would
rather live with the leak than replace the seal. I didn't find much on this while searching. I can see a couple while-your-in-there's and special tools making this a bigger job. Should I replace the seal? What does it entail?
Thanks, Mech.
I see people have already asked all the good questions about this saw.
So here is my story. I have a 028 WB that my dad bought new for firewood/ homeowner use. All the castings appear to be date stamped 78, which makes sense. He gave it to me 6-7 years ago because it was a finicky runner and that whole hand it down to your son and then upgrade thing. I cleaned and reset the carb and had it running well for while. Over the next few years, it seemed that it would need to be re-tuned often to keep it running well. Latest symptom was that it would idle, but not accelerate or rev. It seemed that feathering the throttle just right would get it to rev, but if it sat while I moved logs around, it wouldn't rev again until I feathered the throttle just right.
I was fixated on the fuel delivery. I wore out the H&L screws. I think I have chased my tail with a comedy of errors in mis-reading coincidences as cause and effect for years. The saw would run great in spurts. Recently, I re-built the carb and pressure/vac tested the crankcase. The piston and cylinder appear remarkably clean for age and use. There are no signs of poor compression.
I just put a spark tester on the saw. That is a tool which I have owned and used for years and never thought to introduce it to the saw. It showed intermittent spark that corresponds with the engine surging. There is a full bright spark every 2nd or 3rd engine revolution, dim or no spark on revolutions between firing. I think the points, coil, and or condenser are the root of the problem.
Based on posts here and a downloaded parts list...
I will replace the coil with the solid state ignition # 0000 400 1300, doesn't require pulling the flywheel and removing the points/ condenser.
I would like to put in the chain brake option Kit # 1118 007 1002 This has the 1st gen brake band that is open IE. does not wrap completely around the clutch drum. Pictures of this chain brake match my saw.
My sprocket "1118 642 1205" has a chipped tooth and is an older design that is separate from the clutch drum. I would like to get a rim sprocket kit which is shown as 1118 007 1003 or an aftermarket.
My questions.
Did I miss anything with the coil, brake, and sprocket? Other suggestions?
Any chance I can find a part saw that has all this? I think saws with the chain brake I need will have points and saws with solid state ignitions will have 2nd gen brakes.
The case is leaking bar oil at the lowest point in the tank. I think I would
rather live with the leak than replace the seal. I didn't find much on this while searching. I can see a couple while-your-in-there's and special tools making this a bigger job. Should I replace the seal? What does it entail?
Thanks, Mech.
