I have found spraying Carb cleaner anywhere near the intake boot causes the carb to suck in the vapour, you probably have no issues at all with your intake boot.
036 carb/ intake boot air leak
- Thread starter idiotwithasaw
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Magic string. I like that!
And if you have used it, you understand.
And if you have used it, you understand.
Do not use the paper gasket. The gasket was only used with the Tilloston carburetor. The gasket will block the impulse port
on the Walbro carburetor. Make sure the impulse hose is connected. They have been know to come off. The face of the intake boot looks compromised. I would change it out with an OEM. If the saw had previously had a scored piston and cylinder I would stop and change out the crankshaft seals. Again I would only use OEM crankshaft seals. There is a 50/50 chance on aftermarket quality and it’s not worth the hassle! Seal presses are readily available and definitely worth the investment especially when installing the flywheel side seal. The flywheel side press counter sinks the seal to proper specifications. The Stihl 036 is a great saw!
on the Walbro carburetor. Make sure the impulse hose is connected. They have been know to come off. The face of the intake boot looks compromised. I would change it out with an OEM. If the saw had previously had a scored piston and cylinder I would stop and change out the crankshaft seals. Again I would only use OEM crankshaft seals. There is a 50/50 chance on aftermarket quality and it’s not worth the hassle! Seal presses are readily available and definitely worth the investment especially when installing the flywheel side seal. The flywheel side press counter sinks the seal to proper specifications. The Stihl 036 is a great saw!
Acrylic yarn works great. Soft and won't cut into the boot and flattens out when you pull in through the tank housing. My girlfriend knits so I have a free supply....
Filed down tooth brush handles work good for helping to pry the boot through.
Also handy for working rings into a cylinder and not mucking up the piston.
And by chance, that's also a 036.
idiotwithasaw
another row to hoe
I'm not sure I've ever heard of the magic string method for stihl intake boots but it looks like it would work. Honestly this design is why I don't tend to work on too many stihls, great saws lots of power but a PITA to work on.
Also I ordered a new west boot from wolf creek saw shop and as expected it didn't really seal either, as soon as i saw that the mold line went right though the sealing surface I had major doubts. I need to just break down and order an oem boot tho I'm not sure that's the solution.
I wish i could machine a metal ring that I could remove the studs from the plastic install the ring on the back side of the divider wall and reinstall the studs through the ring to support the plastic. Ine thing thsy would have to be worked around tho is the impulse elbow on thw back side. I'm not sure I'm describing this well enough but I hope you get the idea.
Also I ordered a new west boot from wolf creek saw shop and as expected it didn't really seal either, as soon as i saw that the mold line went right though the sealing surface I had major doubts. I need to just break down and order an oem boot tho I'm not sure that's the solution.
I wish i could machine a metal ring that I could remove the studs from the plastic install the ring on the back side of the divider wall and reinstall the studs through the ring to support the plastic. Ine thing thsy would have to be worked around tho is the impulse elbow on thw back side. I'm not sure I'm describing this well enough but I hope you get the idea.
idiotwithasaw
another row to hoe
I do like the idea of a block off plate I know stihl makes one and I have one for the strato saws but not the older ones for some reason, maybe I should order one.
idiotwithasaw
another row to hoe
https://www.ebay.com/itm/235376153309
Ok I ordered this block off tool, this should replicate the carb being installed and help narrow things down, or confuse me. Either one is likely.
Ok I ordered this block off tool, this should replicate the carb being installed and help narrow things down, or confuse me. Either one is likely.
Never had a new OEM boot leak at the spot. The issue is age of the original boot. Get the OEM.
Like we say, order two aftermarket parts. You MIGHT get a good one.
idiotwithasaw
another row to hoe
Update, I ordered this blockoff and was able to vac test it and it will hold pressure but vaccum is kinda weird. Vac will bleed off and I can watch oil/brake clean be sucked in, but it seems like once the liquid gets between the boot and block it seals up. Where i was able to notice it was around the impulse but I don't know if that's the only place.
I ordered some new oem boots off ebay because my dealer told me they were NLA from stihl, can anyone else confirm that.
I ordered some new oem boots off ebay because my dealer told me they were NLA from stihl, can anyone else confirm that.
That part being no longer available sounds like we don't want you to repair that tool. The second half of that sentence is we can sell you a new one.
Have you checked the impulse line port to see if it's clogged?
Rubber or wood blocks do the same thing.
Boot not available. Guess I need to check that out. Was last I knew. We do seem to be losing part quite a bit lately. Stihl isn't the only one. Tried a part for a cutoff saw with Husqvarna. NLA
Yup, no longer in price book. Epa gets another one.
Retiredboomer1
ArboristSite Lurker
- Joined
- Jun 17, 2024
- Messages
- 29
- Reaction score
- 8
I see so many things wrong there Or presented wrong (NOT A GRIPE)
the green gasket there is no good at all blocking the impulse hose IT IS.
that impulse hose run the carb (bottom) fuel pump, if that fails the carb is dead. period
you hold the carb upside down?, I guess with impulse at top not bottom, SURE. i guess.
the old boot looks ok
do pressure test in the impulse hole there? for pulsing and holding small vac, and the holds pressure. full testing is called for if carb is new.
new impulse hose, not used, that old ever.
the carb is bad I bet.
after main seals not leaking. 1st is this not last .
fuel tank vent clogged
bad fuel. (top cause in repair shops is bingo fuel)
choke on carb works? if does do no over choke any saw.
yes it is tricky to get any old carb to work, even with good impulses and good fuel.
The carbs parts inside can clog up easy, just like all lawn care and motorcycles do over wintered.
YMMV
yes some cheap AF boots are too thin at the outer boot flange and suck air. or the lower handle casing blocks this from happening,
oops my answer was late, has new carb now.
so bad boot. or not put in correctly or the base housing is warped or cracked, etc.
the green gasket there is no good at all blocking the impulse hose IT IS.
that impulse hose run the carb (bottom) fuel pump, if that fails the carb is dead. period
you hold the carb upside down?, I guess with impulse at top not bottom, SURE. i guess.
the old boot looks ok
do pressure test in the impulse hole there? for pulsing and holding small vac, and the holds pressure. full testing is called for if carb is new.
new impulse hose, not used, that old ever.
the carb is bad I bet.
after main seals not leaking. 1st is this not last .
fuel tank vent clogged
bad fuel. (top cause in repair shops is bingo fuel)
choke on carb works? if does do no over choke any saw.
yes it is tricky to get any old carb to work, even with good impulses and good fuel.
The carbs parts inside can clog up easy, just like all lawn care and motorcycles do over wintered.
YMMV
yes some cheap AF boots are too thin at the outer boot flange and suck air. or the lower handle casing blocks this from happening,
oops my answer was late, has new carb now.
so bad boot. or not put in correctly or the base housing is warped or cracked, etc.
Retiredboomer1
ArboristSite Lurker
- Joined
- Jun 17, 2024
- Messages
- 29
- Reaction score
- 8
pure genius answer, yes it is hard to get it all locked in at the flange. dang
Retiredboomer1
ArboristSite Lurker
- Joined
- Jun 17, 2024
- Messages
- 29
- Reaction score
- 8
100% correct.
036 1991 or 1996 is old saw, some things go bad that old like carb boots shrink. I have M361 and the boot was bad.
I did new bearings so no seal puller need, split case, then last step new seals easy as can be. (using socket drivers)
and if saw does not cut wood the carb is lean and will wreck the piston and both main bearings fast.
just because it runs , is not proof of any saw being good. (same with 2 stroke motor cycles)(non autolube kind ,mix kind) << my first one 1964
good luck to you.
Ps some of those clone tubes, are not consistent in quality, so saying they are good, means nothing like this. but if OEM is not in-stock the saw is a door stop.
hint by 3 boots from 3 places , cross fingers. that is how I do it. If must.
idiotwithasaw
another row to hoe
Hey guys sorry I dropped the ball on this one, I've honestly gotten out of saws for the moment adhd things lol. But on this saw it was never a runability issue it was just something I ran across on accident, it was showing a air leak at the carb base only when I shot it with cleaner. I am fairly sure however it's been a few months since I've messed with this saw, or any other for that matter. That I tried several different parts and did find some nos oem boots, even with that it would still die out when hit with spray. Only thing I didn't try was a new tank, and honestly that ain't gonna happen. this is why stihl isn't my favorite. Good saws but a pain to work on.
