036 pro rpm issue?

[made_of_stihl]

The metering lever looks correct. Did you take some pics before hand?

Good morning. Thanks for your insights again. No, I didn’t get a pic. If I remember correctly, I had to lift the tail end of the lever some to get it where it is now in the picture. Would that mean the needle is not seating properly? I don’t think it was a ton of bending.

Did the smoke pour out of your crank seals, or someone elses?

someone else’s, they just happened to be testing a saw when I was there.

If you dont have a Mitivac, I doubt you have the OEM tool that allows you to Easily vac test with the tank and boot attached. It bolts in where the carb goes.

Yeah, I don’t have that. I saw them using it at the dealer, so I know what it looks like. My plan was to put some inner-tube rubber under muffler and carb to seal ports. Then attach mitivac to impulse line and vac or pressurize, and clamp off line with small vice grips or locking needle-nose. I have a new impulse line on there now.

Dont forget youll need to plug Your decomp valve to get an accurate test, but you’ll probably be ok leaving it in.

Ok, what’s the best way to plug this?

I’m down on Long Island. Dave @fruecrue is in Alden, which I think is close to you.

Yeah Alden is east of Buffalo, probably 75 miles or so from here.

again, thanks for taking the time to help me. I have to wait for my new vent from eBay, so I might have the mitivac before I’m able to get everything back together.

 

[CausticUC]

Ok, what’s the best way to plug this?

Quick trip to a hydraulic - hose shop, pick up a plug, or couple. Few cents apiece.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Stihl dealers can get them, most have a few in stock, # 1122 025 2200 plug.

 

[drf255]

Good morning. Thanks for your insights again. No, I didn’t get a pic. If I remember correctly, I had to lift the tail end of the lever some to get it where it is now in the picture. Would that mean the needle is not seating properly? I don’t think it was a ton of bending.

someone else’s, they just happened to be testing a saw when I was there.


Yeah, I don’t have that. I saw them using it at the dealer, so I know what it looks like. My plan was to put some inner-tube rubber under muffler and carb to seal ports. Then attach mitivac to impulse line and vac or pressurize, and clamp off line with small vice grips or locking needle-nose. I have a new impulse line on there now.

Ok, what’s the best way to plug this?

Yeah Alden is east of Buffalo, probably 75 miles or so from here.

again, thanks for taking the time to help me. I have to wait for my new vent from eBay, so I might have the mitivac before I’m able to get everything back together.

When you get the Mitivac, pressure test the assembled carb. Apply pressure to fuel inlet, the carb should hold at least 15psi. If it doesn’t, put a few drops of mix in the inlet and apply pressure again. Sometimes a dry needle/seat will leak a bit. If it won’t hold pressure, something is wrong and you may have the lever too high.

An easy way to vac test is to use Gorilla tape. Clean the intake and exhaust flanges off with acetone and apply a cut piece of tape. Works for vac, but will peal off for pressure. I’d pull you decomp valve, depress button to open it and add some grease where the stem seats. Reassemble. Should give you enough seal to get a test. Test through impulse line. You’ll need to pull the tank to do this.

Again, other people’s experiences may vary, but any saw I’ve tested with a vac leak big enough to cause a running issue will be obvious. The saw won’t be able to hold any vacuum for over 3-4 seconds.

 

[drf255]

Here’s the factory attachment to check vac on a few Stihl’s





A bad needle/seat on an AM Zama for MS360-this is pressure testing as above.



And here is an 1125 that tore a defective OEM seal-fast forward to 4 minutes in.

 

[made_of_stihl]

Happy New Year everyone. Long story, but finally got my hands on a mityvac.

The carb nearly held 15 psi, but slow bleed off. Crank passed pressure but failed vacuum.

For testing, I went through impulse line. Rubber under muffler and carb, and decomp valve left in.

Next step, replace seals?

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

Probably, yes. Careful on their removal. Remember their exact depth and take pics.

Wiggle that crank... any play?

 

[huskihl]

Happy New Year everyone. Long story, but finally got my hands on a mityvac.

The carb nearly held 15 psi, but slow bleed off. Crank passed pressure but failed vacuum.

For testing, I went through impulse line. Rubber under muffler and carb, and decomp valve left in.

Next step, replace seals?

If the decomp button is still there, hold out on it while you do the vacuum test. Usually when they pass pressure but fail vacuum, it’s because the decomp button is being sucked in

 

[made_of_stihl]

If the decomp button is still there, hold out on it while you do the vacuum test.

I did the test again holding out on valve. Still wouldn’t hold vacuum. Should I get a decomp port plug? Or is it safe to say the seals are bad? Thanks again.

 

[drf255]

Pull valve, grease the stem with it open, then pull closed. Reinstall. A plug would be better, but you don’t have one.

Have saw disassembled enough to see both seals. Turn saw on one side, put some oil around seal, pull a vacuum. See if it holds vacuum or sucks the oil right in. If it’s a bad leak it will either stop the vac leak or you’ll see it suck the oil in. Repeat on other side if nothing changes.

It’s usually the flywheel seal.

 

[made_of_stihl]

I was supposed to have a plug, but it never came. Need to get one I guess.

I broke a tip of a fin off the fly wheel trying to get the clutch off. Did I ruin the fly wheel? I think I’ll try impact wrench... clutch is really on there (turning clockwise).

 

[drf255]

You’re good

 

[made_of_stihl]

Got my second port plug in the mail (lol don’t ask). Redid the vac test. It was better, but ultimately vac drops down to 5 and then slowly down after that.

Pulled the clutch. Does it usually look this oily in there? It looks like oil pump is maybe leaking?? Put some oil around seal and pulled vac ... oil didn’t get sucked in. I have a fly wheel puller coming and so I’ll get that off and try testing seal on that side this week.

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

Any play in the crank?

 

[made_of_stihl]

Any play in the crank?

No it’s solid.

 

[drf255]

Looks pretty normal for an old saw to me. Spray with a little cleaner, then brush and rinse. Then blow off.

Don’t try removing pump completely. If you have to pull it, pull off crank and flip to the side. The oil lines in those are tricky and you don’t want to play with it. As long as oil line is intact, and not torn, you should be good.

Its usually the fly side seal.

 

[made_of_stihl]

drf255, thank you, thank you, my friend for sticking with this. I got my puller today. Pulled flywheel. Put oil on seal and watched it disappear into crank case under vacuum! It was awesome to finally find the issue, especially knowing that my local dealer wouldn’t even do a vac test. Now I need to replace seal. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again!!

 

[BangBang77]

I bought a crankshaft seal puller and insertion tool on Amazon. It has worked on everything from an 026 to a 460.

I can search my order list tomorrow and send you the links if you don't come up with something before.

 

[made_of_stihl]

I can search my order list tomorrow and send you the links if you don't come up with something before.

Thanks, that would be great. Haven’t looked yet.

 

[BangBang77]

Thanks, that would be great. Haven’t looked yet.

Will do man.