.043 vs .050 gauges. Is my understanding correct?

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JustSomeOldDude

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Ok so as i understand it the "gauge" refers to the thickness of the metal that make up the links and cutter sections.
.043 being thinner
Also the .050 takes out a bigger chip than the .043
The chip the .043 takes out is also often shallower than the .050
The .043 chains make a thinner cut and ( theoretically) require less power to run.
The .050 endures impacts better because of the thicker metal and remains sharper longer for the same reason.
Is this understanding correct?
 
Ok so as i understand it the "gauge" refers to the thickness of the metal that make up the links and cutter sections.
.043 being thinner
Also the .050 takes out a bigger chip than the .043
The chip the .043 takes out is also often shallower than the .050
The .043 chains make a thinner cut and ( theoretically) require less power to run.
The .050 endures impacts better because of the thicker metal and remains sharper longer for the same reason.
Is this understanding correct?

Close. The gauge is the thickness of the drivers that fit into the channel in the bar. Nothing really to do with chip size.
 
As others have already said, it's the thickness of the drive link. That being said, if we're talking about 3/8lp chain(small saws, top handles, etc) the .043 chain usually has a smaller cutter than the .050 chain in the same pitch. That's why a lot of us run .043 chain on our top handles rather than the .050 that came on them stock.
 
Some .043 is referred to as "Narrow Kerf" and indeed the cutter profile is different so it is removing less wood thus less HP required to pull it through the wood. The bar also has to be thinner to work with the NK chain, otherwise the chain would not cut enough away to clear bar.

Mark


































































Mark
 
Ok so as i understand it the "gauge" refers to the thickness of the metal that make up the links and cutter sections.
.043 being thinner
Also the .050 takes out a bigger chip than the .043
The chip the .043 takes out is also often shallower than the .050
The .043 chains make a thinner cut and ( theoretically) require less power to run.
The .050 endures impacts better because of the thicker metal and remains sharper longer for the same reason.
Is this understanding correct?
At a saw (typically a top handle) at less than 36cc, the .043 super narrow kerf chains (Stihl / Oregon) offers significantly smoother cutting and faster cut speed. The draw back is that at 14" and longer bars it might derail more easily, and if it does the chain might get more damaged more easily than a heavier tougher chain.
Also these chains are usually "kickback safe" chains that don't do plunge cut.
 
At a saw (typically a top handle) at less than 36cc, the .043 super narrow kerf chains (Stihl / Oregon) offers significantly smoother cutting and faster cut speed. The draw back is that at 14" and longer bars it might derail more easily, and if it does the chain might get more damaged more easily than a heavier tougher chain.
Also these chains are usually "kickback safe" chains that don't do plunge cut.
Hence why I run the WoodlandPro set up on my 2511t, it's one of the few non-safety narrow-kerf setups I could find. I only run the narrow-kerf on the 2511, my 201tcm just runs .050 gauge chisel chain...both saws have 16" bars, which is kind of a standard size for the local trees.

The sturdier setup of the .050 is partly why I still run it on the 201. The other reason is that my particular 201 does just fine with standard 3/8lp chain...I've done minor port and machine work to it and it pulls the 16" well, even in hardwoods. The 2511t is running in a much higher state of tune to run the 16", but it does it pretty well now. The bar on that is a lightweight laminate bar, that is a bit more flexy than stock, so I do remain cognizant of avoiding derailments.
 
Hence why I run the WoodlandPro set up on my 2511t, it's one of the few non-safety narrow-kerf setups I could find. I only run the narrow-kerf on the 2511, my 201tcm just runs .050 gauge chisel chain...both saws have 16" bars, which is kind of a standard size for the local trees.

The sturdier setup of the .050 is partly why I still run it on the 201. The other reason is that my particular 201 does just fine with standard 3/8lp chain...I've done minor port and machine work to it and it pulls the 16" well, even in hardwoods. The 2511t is running in a much higher state of tune to run the 16", but it does it pretty well now. The bar on that is a lightweight laminate bar, that is a bit more flexy than stock, so I do remain cognizant of avoiding derailments.
I wish stihl would give us a Picco version of the normal rs chain. I run the .043 pmm3 on the 192tc. I have stihl and oregon .050 bars for it, but it seems to work best with the .043 on it. Gutless thing it is.
 
I wish stihl would give us a Picco version of the normal rs chain. I run the .043 pmm3 on the 192tc. I have stihl and oregon .050 bars for it, but it seems to work best with the .043 on it. Gutless thing it is.
My 192t became my back up saw when I got my 201. Once I got the 2511t, I sent the 192 down the road...it's hard to believe, but even my 2511 when it was stock beat up pretty hard on the 192.
 
Ok so as i understand it the "gauge" refers to the thickness of the metal that make up the links and cutter sections.
.043 being thinner
Also the .050 takes out a bigger chip than the .043
The chip the .043 takes out is also often shallower than the .050
The .043 chains make a thinner cut and ( theoretically) require less power to run.
omitted line.
Is this understanding correct?
What chain do you want to discuss?

In 1/4 pitch there is the Stihl 71 class which has 0.043 thick drive links and the 13 class with 0.050 drive links, brand x makes 0.050 stuff as well ie Oregon 25ap.

In 0.325 pitch there is a mini chain used by Husqvarna on some battery products. 0.043 gauge. Oregon makes some, it seems there are bar and chain and sprocket combinations and chain loops but no sprockets or reels of chain available.

In 3/8lp, the only one where the drive sprocket is supposed to be the same for both 0.043 and 0.050 gauge chain. Generally the cutters are smaller and tie straps are lighter on the 0.043 stuff but some lesser recognized players essentially use the same chain with different drive links.
 
My 192t became my back up saw when I got my 201. Once I got the 2511t, I sent the 192 down the road...it's hard to believe, but even my 2511 when it was stock beat up pretty hard on the 192.
I have most of a 200t laying here to put together, got it off a forum member here. Whenever thays back together the 192tc is history.
 
Ok so as i understand it the "gauge" refers to the thickness of the metal that make up the links and cutter sections.
.043 being thinner
Also the .050 takes out a bigger chip than the .043
The chip the .043 takes out is also often shallower than the .050
The .043 chains make a thinner cut and ( theoretically) require less power to run.
The .050 endures impacts better because of the thicker metal and remains sharper longer for the same reason.
Is this understanding correct?

Hey JSOD!

You're spot on on almost every point! The last one though I would have to say this:
1. The thicker material makes the chain body (i.e. the tie straps and rivets) more resistant to stretching, not so much at "impact resistance", since both chains are equally "hard", metallurgically speaking.

2. Sharpness is not really a function of mass (or thickness) of the cutters, especially in full-chisel chain. Once the working corner (the front "tip") of the chain is dulled, it won't cut properly, regardless of how "wide" or "thick" it is....

Hope this helps,

Mike
 
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