050 051 075 076 Info Thread

[Definitive Dave]

way wayyy back when I joined here I had just bought out a defunct dealership and had a big yardsale where I sold tons of stuff I couldn't identify for whatever somebody would offer, in looking back at a few pics I think there was an 051, am I right?
I think I remember who bought it

 

[Rockfarmer]

Just picked up my second 076 Super. Going for a complete tear down and powdercoat even though it runs mint!

 

[scallywag]

It's a good job you guys are doing keeping this thread going and the info flowing!....I've got a 076 Super that needs a rebuild and this thread is a first rate source of reference material.....Thanks!

 

[Definitive Dave]

can somebody clarify for me?
I was sure that the 050/51/75 had side oil caps and the 076 had a top oil cap am I right or messed up?
Dave

 

[Rockfarmer]

The way I understand it is the 1111 series oil caps on top were the older models and the side caps are the newer models. Oh absolutely stole an 090 in mint shape, all oringinal unmolested running saw. My new mantlepiece

 

[Rockfarmer]

Anybody ever throw a 3/8 pitch b&c
On an 076 or 076 super? Just wondering how fast it would cut with full chisel chain. With unlimited coil, un governed carb And ported muffler I can get this saw to spin 2000 over stock ( a little over 10,000) You think a 3/8 chain would bog it down? It's all I can do to hang onto it with the .404 full chisel. Just wondering,... Oh running a 25" Stihl rollermatic bar and rim sprocket.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Seems like the slightly narrower kerf would cut quite nicely with all that power and those extra rpms. Put an 8 pin sprocket on it with that 25" bar for even a little more zip and hold on to yer hat!

 

[Definitive Dave]

Brutus is going to be running 3/8 .050 on a 30" ES Light
Engraver called to say the template arrived so I can drop off the bar as soon as it arrives.
Dave

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Is the engraver doing a copy of the vintage etched Stihl bar on the ES Light?

 

[Definitive Dave]

Is the engraver doing a copy of the vintage etched Stihl bar on the ES Light?

oh yeah
DD

 

[raumati01]

When I mentioned I scored an 051 for about $20 Pogo mentioned I would be struck down, I got bored today so chucked some gas into it and it started......

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

 

[symamania]

gday guys

hopefully i can get some handy hints im in dire need of a new carby for my Stihl 076. Ive been searching high and low and turning up nothing i can find parts for 051 and ts 760 ive read else where that some parts are interchangeable but im not sure on the carb`s if i can just bolt on one and go for it.

Also im wondering if converting the chainsaw air filter supply to that of the concrete saw would be worth while for better filtration when milling? Because when i take the filter off it seems to get a bit of sawdust under the filter.

cheers

 

[Rockfarmer]

The ts760 carb and 076 carb are not interchangeable. The ts 760 vent for the gas tank goes through the case and carb so it doesnt leak gas when operating in other than normal positions. if you look at the carb there are more than two nipples. The 076 carbs should be readily available here in US ebay for around 25$. Your carb is probably fine it just needs that tiny screen cleaned where the gas goes in. Be careful not to loose it if blowing with compressed air. I run my carbs through the ultrasonic cleaner and put new kits in them and they work great. I know when milling, it creates tons of tiny particle dust that finds its way into everything. Yes, lots of maintenance when milling but thats part of the fun! Keep that flocked air filter clean and the cover tight and tiny dust underneath should be minimal and not hurt the saw. Wouldnt hurt to carry a couple spare filters on hand for a day milling. Some have converted to the ts760 filter. I really dont know how it works. I would be hesitant myself because that saw needs a lot of air all day running wide open. The triple filter on the ts760 reduces air flow and is designed to keep silica dust out of the engine (very abrasive) for short amounts of cutting time. You see a lot more blown up chopsaws than chainsaws and the reason is not cleaning/replacing the triple filter system when dry cutting. IMHO. Happy milling! If you still cant find a carb I'll fix you up with a good one, problem is shipping is probably more than the carb to go to Aussie! RF

 

[Rockfarmer]

Handle woes. It seems like evey third saw I buy comes in with a broken handle. it seems like Fed Ex is the worst. I had one that was packed pretty well and still came in with an obviously fresh clean break!! The handles are becoming so rare and pricey on ebay as well. Anybody else find this? Anybody else have a good fix method. Im trying a marine jb weld in all the nooks and crannys after scraping the paint and cleaning. Then maybe drill though the piece, tap it and run a long screw though it. Got to make it look nice though. Nobody likes to buy Frankensaws!! (except me ).

 

[symamania]

Thanks for replying mate. The reason for the need for a new carb is as follows,

I had my chainsaw into the Stihl dealer for a tune up and service as it wasn't running very well all of a sudden it will make two full cuts in the mill. Then after that the saw bogs down and barely turns the chain. the first time it was in the dealer they fitted a decomp button as it was missing new spark plug and a tune up.

I picked it up and tried running in the mill same story as before still bogs down. except this time it will only make it through one cut. So I took it back again and the mechanic said it was probably an issue with the gas cap as it leaked so put a new one in. Picked it up and yet same story only will do one cut on its side in the mill. Also this time i used it out of the mill just as a chainsaw put 3 tanks of fuel through the big girl and it was pretty much fine, The saw coughed and farted a bit but no where near as bad as when its on it`s side in the mill.

So i took the saw back and told the dealer of my findings and said maybe should put a carby kit through it and see if that helps as, The kit was fitted had a few worn parts so they replaced those and i took it home to try This time it wont even make it through a single cut in the mill. Every time it goes to the shop it is getting worse. The mechanic told me the piston and bore may need replacing as there were some slight marks on the piston or the other option was try a new carby if I could get hold of one

They basically told me it was too hard and they were chasing there tails on the saw. So I may need a new carb or so on but has any one got any other ideas i should check first? The saw has heaps of compression starts easy and did run really well until all this started

I am cutting hard wood but i would assume a big saw like the 076 would cut it no drama

 

[Rockfarmer]

wow, that stinks. Carbs really dont wear out. They get dirty and that screen gets clogged. If he cleaned it and did the right job that should eliminate that. I always have a spare carb to swap out to see if thats the problem with the saw and it never is. If the piston has scores, thats not good. Hes looking at the intake side, the exhaust side is usually 5 times worse. It may have great compression when cold but how about when its hot. Compression can "feel" good at 125 but its not. If you really want to see what the piston looks like you have to pull the muffler. I wont send a saw out with less than 150 psi. 170 is real good. It may be a seal problem. There are 3. Clutch side (2), and mag side. Total parts cost is 25$. I would read up on the saw and stop going to the dealer (he's not helping you obviously). The money youve spent with him you could invest in the tools you need to fix it yourself (clutch wrench, mag puller, compression tester). If your going to mill alot you will become a saw mechanic out of nessecity. Thats how we all got here!! Welcome to AS! Everything you need to know to make that saw like new is right here on this site!

 

[symamania]

well it was funny because he told me the piston scoring wasnt bad when he first sighted it and said it shouldnt be an issue. but since they couldnt figure out what was wrong with it, It`s now become an excuse

 

[symamania]

Just seems funny that the saw has gotten considerably worse each time it went to the shop, But hey could be coincidence

 

[Rockfarmer]

That could be simple tuning of the high, low jets and idle screw. Him rushing to get it done. Not letting the saw warm up to tune, ect. If the diaphram post isnt slid into the metering lever slot, clogged intake screen ect. my suggestion is to start buying the tools you need to repair yourself. Nothing like the satisfaction of fixing something yourself and then pushing her to see what she'll do!! Start with a compression tester. Keep in mind you feel excellent compression if theres any liquid in the cylinder and it will give you a false reading. You got to pull the plug and pull her over 5 times fast, choke and kill switch off and see if any vapors blow out the spark plug hole. Then when you know its fairly blown out comp tester in, throttle lock wide open, decomp out (pull it) and then 5 good pulls and see what your reading is. Anything under 150 and I'd consider a complete tear down. Could be a silly seal, I replace them just because heck the saws 30 years old, routine maintenance!