050 051 075 076 Info Thread

[PogoInTheWoods]

There are several options for the 1.2L tank. The chop saws are probably your best bet for finding something used..., like a whole chop saw.

Think I'd pretty much look for a one-piece tank just because.

Other 'Fan Housing' numbers will include the entire assembly. Your main consideration may be which recoil assembly is involved. You would ideally want the pawl starter if it's currently a friction shoe type. That also involves a different flywheel if I'm not mistaken.

 

[Goinwheelin]

Finally after 5 years I got this thing back to life. Monumental day today!

 

[Goinwheelin]

Runs good but not oiling. Manual or auto. Hopefully something simple, I know the sprocket is correct etc. just hope I didn’t get the check valve wrong when I put the manual oiler back together.

 

[89HD]

Just starting to put an 075 together, hope I don’t miss anything.

 

[Goinwheelin]

Think I figured out the oiler issue. I forgot the snap ring in the case, after that I started it up without the oil cap on and wouldn’t you know it started oiling

 

[Bigjimmythunder]

Hey guys

Just bought two 076 supers on the weekend , along with an 051 and 07s. Was only going to buy one but as the other wouldn't start he offered it half price and who could resist.

One of the 076s runs and the other fires with a bit of "start ya bas#ard" so guessing something with the carby for that one

My main issue is the one that runs revs up when tilting to the left and when tilting upwards
Dies when tilting to the right and tilting down
Am I right in assuming bad crank seals or could it be something to do with the fuel or impulse lines?
It seems to have a fair bit of compression but not as much as the one that won't start. No decomp on either.

I dont have the mean (yet) to do a compression test, is there some other way I can test to see if its the seals?

Thanks on advance

 

[Goinwheelin]

I would say crank seals. There’s also a seal inside the worm gear for the oiler so don’t miss that one. Also check the big rubber seal on the oiler it can suck bar oil through there or air if there’s no bar oil in the tank. Probably look at the piston as well you’ll have to pull the handle to get the muffler off but it’s not too bad

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I dont have the mean (yet) to do a compression test, is there some other way I can test to see if its the seals?

You need a vacuum/pressure tester for the seals (and crankcase integrity in general including oil pump considerations in this case).

The poor man's way is to spray carb or brake cleaner around the crank under the clutch and flywheel to see if it stalls out. Never could figure out how someone could effectively do that without pulling the recoil assembly after the engine was running. Clutch side would be hit or miss at best depending on access to the crank area under the clutch.

That said, your symptoms from one side to the other could also be something as simple as how much fuel is in the tank and/or the condition of the fuel line and filter.

A compression tester is for testing ring wear and the relative effect on cylinder compression.

 

[Bigjimmythunder]

You need a vacuum/pressure tester for the seals (and crankcase integrity in general including oil pump considerations in this case).

The poor man's way is to spray carb or brake cleaner around the crank under the clutch and flywheel to see if it stalls out. Never could figure out how someone could effectively do that without pulling the recoil assembly after the engine was running. Clutch side would be hit or miss at best depending on access to the crank area under the clutch.

That said, your symptoms from one side to the other could also be something as simple as how much fuel is in the tank and/or the condition of the fuel line and filter.

A compression tester is for testing ring wear and the relative effect on cylinder compression.

Thanks guys, i will do some more testing

Got some parts coming from Saegenspezi and have included their pressure tester

The one that runs seems to have less compression than the one i cant get running (carby kit on the way)
Would love to get them both running they are a beast of a saw

Off topic but the 07s is in great condition and runs like a dream, shout out to the engineers from the 60s.
The 051 starts but needs a bit of love to get back to prime condition
Was a great score on the weekend, his fathers collection that he is slowly selling off. He had a 1950s BLK like new condition which just blew me away
Says he wont part with it but i might be able to talk him around

 

[89HD]

A few pictures of my present project the elusive 050 prototype.
I picked it up as NOS parts, for the conversion then had to find a good 050. I installed new bearings and seals in case. The kit has the removable cylinder head, new cylinder studs that fit the 050, single ring piston, modified air filter cover and a header pipe for the exhaust.

 

[mojo jojo]

80+ pages and not much talk about mufflers (mods and repair)

I have bought 075AVE, nice condition, but has 2 problems. First was sorted out (decomp valve loosened and blew out half threads in the jug) plugged the decomp hole.
She now runs nice, but still got a problem with muffler. On the outside doesnt look bad, but inside has some broken off part. I would like to cut open to clean its guts, but dont know where and how to cut, not to ruin the whole muffler as it is N/A here.
Did anyone opened 075/076 or even 050/051 muffler? Any pictures? I would like to see how is built inside before I start cutting.

 

[bulletpruf]

I've never opened one up, but it can't be too complicated. It either has a baffle inside or it doesn't. You should be able to just slice it in half and then weld or braze it back together.

I think Saegenspezi makes reproductions.

 

[mojo jojo]

Saegenspezi is out of 075 mufflers. You can get only 050/051
One guy here mentioned he opened it up and make some mods inside. I was thinking he would have taken some photos of it. I think member WidowMaker_1.
Or maybe if anybody has one completely rusted muffler, that is junk, he would make a sacrifice and cut it in half and take a pictures for the sake of sience.

 

[bulletpruf]

Saegenspezi is out of 075 mufflers. You can get only 050/051
One guy here mentioned he opened it up and make some mods inside. I was thinking he would have taken some photos of it. I think member WidowMaker_1.
Or maybe if anybody has one completely rusted muffler, that is junk, he would make a sacrifice and cut it in half and take a pictures for the sake of sience.

Can’t imagine what it would have internally except for a baffle that you can remove or enlarge the holes on.

 

[mojo jojo]

This is the only pic that I could find that shows some internals. Looks like baffle on the end of an exhaust pipe, but there is still a wall in the middle of mufller chamber. You can see it thru the muffler exit side.
I wonder, is that pipe baffle broken off, or is there another mesh wall inside that broke off in my muffler.
I want to cut muffler in a way you can not see it was welded back when installed on a saw, but the hole must be big enough I can take out that broken part. And the cut must be in place where you can do your best welding.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

The baffle in that pic looks more than adequate to flow effectively -- provided other internal restrictions don't exist. If your existing muffler is the same style you would probably realize the most gains by opening the exit slats a bit for less restriction there, if any are to even be realized in the first place. If you want to gut it, just cut it open and do it. If you're that worried about the look afterward, just leave it alone and go cut..., or put it on a shelf..., whatever.

Those saws were designed for power and flowed quite well stock. Same with the 1115 series, (though the 056 did go the extra mile with the added exhaust port later in production).

There's a reason the aren't many threads about about 1111 series muffler mods.

 

[mojo jojo]

I am not trying to mod it, but save the engine. There is a broken piece rattleing inside the muffler that I want to take it out. I know these mufflers are pretty good stock.

Looks like that baffel end is welded to outter wall of the muffler. So if you cut all around the muffler you could still have a problem to take it apart. (see the attachment photo)

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Ahhh, I see.

Maybe get into it from the rear to remove what's loose inside and then button it back up by whatever means?

I've also seen one cut open from the normal exit down to the lower left corner as a 'mod' then another cover screwed in place as a deflector (and to cover the opening).

Yeah, you gotta get that piece out of there one way or another short of replacing the muffler.

 

[Bigjimmythunder]

I have 2 x 076s and a 051
They look the same but have different mounting holes so don't ever make the mistake of buying an 051 muffler if they say it also fits an 076. You could probably drill it out and make it fit if that's all you can get your hands on though. There is two types one with the exhaust vents at the top (old type) and then a newer one which has an exhaust shroud, it blows out lower down so it doesn't burn the cover

Both of mine had holes in them which I had to braze to fix, one of them had been cut it half along the lip/seam and has a big bolt in the centre of it now through to a nut they have welded to the inside.
Took a bit of work to make it seal properly again so if you do cut it in half might be best not to go down this route, just braze it back together if you can.

They don't look the pretiest but they both work again

Away from home for the next two days but will open it up and take some pics when I get back


I agree with PogoInTheWoods as I also have 2 x 056 magnums. Almost impossible to find anywhere for both series. Had to braze holes in those ones too

 

[mojo jojo]

Away from home for the next two days but will open it up and take some pics when I get back

That would be much appreciated!