056 renewal

[kyle1!]

I purchased a "runs good" ebay special. The saw sure runs good if you can get it started and it leaves a puddle of oil on the bench :bang: With the numerous post about hard starting/leaky oilers I tore into the 056. This will be my stump saw and the ms280 is the limber. The 056 came in handy on my first stump, a 40" thorny locust stump. It had all kinds of cuts in it from the 280's attempt at removal.

With quick twists of the flat blade screwdriver and allen wrench I'm down to the cylinder. Keeping my fingers crossed I pull the muffler and look at both the intake/exhaust sides of the pistion.

The exhaust looks great but the intake (poor pic)has some scuffing/very very light ridges. The original flock air filter had some holes in it. The saw has good compression, only drops one notch very slowly being held up by the rope. Should I be concerned about this or should I just leave it alone? New piston/rings?

My plan for the saw is to replace the seals/rubber items, carb kit, fix leaky oiler and clean it up. It won't be used much but I would like to have it in good running condition when I do need it.

thanks for your help

Brian

 

[Big feller]

Hard to see from your picture what the scuffing looks like, but if the saw just drops one notch when lifted by the staring rope it isn't too bad. I have one that drops to the floor in less then 10 seconds and it starts within about 3 pulls and cuts pretty well.

I guess it depends how often it is going to be used and how deep your pockets are. If you plan plenty of use and the saw is apart then it is probably worth a new piston. It seems there are some pretty good after market pistons available now.

 

[Justsaws]

Pull the jug and clean out the carbon. Check the area around the rings and the rings themselves. If the lines go up through the rings then replace them. If the lines are deep in piston around the rings then replace the piston and check the cylinder for damage above the intake and exhaust. Clean the muffler out as well since the cylinder exhaust port is thick with the carbon. Check the rings for wear and for being stuck.

The rope drop can be a good indicator for compression but can be misleading on older well used saws.

Nice saws, a lot of them around. Wish I had a never ending supply of inexpensive flywheels and coils. Good luck.

 

[Big feller]

Wish I had a never ending supply of inexpensive flywheels and coils. Good luck.

I'm convinced several of these saws get junked due to repairable ignition faults. I just got one with no spark. Close inspection shows kill switch wire had shorted to ignition plate:

A few minutes work with a dremel:

and a bit of sleeving, ideally heat shrink, and some epoxy:

and we are back in business.

It is vital that all traces of aluminium powder are brushed away. At each stage I check DC resistance between end of wire and plate. In this instance it is in the order of 30 ohms.

I now tend to fit heat shrink along the whole length of this wire to protect against further damage.

The reason for relieving the plate around the wire is so that the sleeving can fully cover the break in insulation and strain relive the area.

 

[Lakeside53]

Inlet scuffing is just bad air filter - replace it. As for rings, seals and carbon etc... I wouldn't do any unless it fails the pressure test.

Rebuild the carb... and replace the fuel filter.. Do NOT disconnect the fuel line inside the tank (unless you have to..).. It can be a PITA to get on again..

 

[Lakeside53]

I'm convinced several of these saws get junked due to repairable ignition faults. I just got one with no spark. Close inspection shows kill switch wire had shorted to ignition plate:

A few minutes work with a dremel:

and a bit of sleeving, ideally heat shrink, and some epoxy:

and we are back in business.

It is vital that all traces of aluminium powder are brushed away. At each stage I check DC resistance between end of wire and plate. In this instance it is in the order of 30 ohms.

I now tend to fit heat shrink along the whole length of this wire to protect against further damage.

The reason for relieving the plate around the wire is so that the sleeving can fully cover the break in insulation and strain relive the area.

Good post... I did several like this a couple of years ago - TS350/360 - same module as the 056. The early SEM has the potted wire - the later you can get to it on top of the module. I usually cut the wire close to the module and solder a new marine wire (plated wires) with gas resistent insulation and heat shrink the two togther.

 

[kyle1!]

I have looked it over

As I go forward I have some questions about the saw. Lake you mentioned the fuel line is a PITA. I pulled it out of the tank to check the fuel filter. It was extremely soft and just collapsed around the blunt pick as I pulled the filter out. Just like most of the other rubber bits (crack in boot) I think it should be replaced or is this the way the line is? Would a long forcep reach the other end of the line? Tricks?

The saw has a leaky oiler. From the parts list there is a couple of orings. I assume replacing these will stop the oiler from leaking. I will also change the site glass seal.

Next step is to take the block to the dealer to have it pressure tested before I decide on the cylinder. I can have them replace the seals for piece of mind also

Thanks Brian

 

[Lakeside53]

Hard to tell if it's too soft.. but if you are doing a bunch of work, then you may as well do it. If you use a long pair off curved forceps it's not too bad.. just real hard to see... Might take you a few tries.. Put a little oil on htre tube end. If you have a cheap pair of forceps, heat and bend the ends to the shape you need!


Yes, the o-rings are a good start, but also the gasket beneath.

 

[russ61]

Good to see another 056 fixer!My fuel line wasn't soft , but the previous owner cut off the soft part!So I had to split the tank to replace it,dealer can still get the gasket.I still haven't got mine running yet ,I'm overlooking something.I ordered a manual of of E-bay, waiting for it.The post about the resistance gave me something to check.
Russ

 

[kyle1!]

That answered a question I forgot to ask

Russ, I thought about splitting the gas tank but the parts list made it unclear whether the tank was isolated or 2 pieces made up the tank. On the fuel line I'm comparing it to auto fuel line which is quite rigid compared to the balloon like feel of the 056 line. My fuel line is hard on ends and soft in the middle.

I'm a :newbie: about this saw stuff but before I started I made sure I had a manual/parts list. My saws maybe get used once every 2 months if I"m lucky. But I want them to be in top shape when I do need them. Seems like a tree falls at my place every 2-3 months. This is unlike the relatives, when I need to borrow their pickup I'm not always sure it is going to start.

AS is my favorite site just can't get enough of windthrown's soft chainsaw ????.

Brian

 

[Big feller]

I would change fuel line and filter. Stihl changed the fuel filter part way through production as they found more modern fuels were eating the screen. No bad idea to change rubber parts on machinery after about 25 years. Carefully check intake boot and impulse line.

 

[kyle1!]

Getting the parts ordered

I have paid a visit to Cheap Stihl parts, Curt Bailey and the now really close Stihl Ace hardware for parts for the 056. The Ace hardware told me the clutch drum needle bearing, 95129333760, was NLA. Is this true? Couldn't find it in the either one of the ebay stores above. I will check other dealers but not sure if they will have it

Brian

 

[huskydave]

I am currently restoring a 056 magII. I am just wondering where you purchased your parts from? chaepstihlparts or anywhere else? Mine needs a new ignition module and a carb rebuild. I may put on a new clutch, sprocket air filter fuel filter but I don't have the time right now to do the work as I am a busy man lately. I was also wondering, I noticed baileys sells the grey stihl paint does anyone know if they sell the orange as well or is there another source for a good match I think I am going to give her a new paint job while it is all apart.

 

[kyle1!]

For parts...

I have used both cheap stihl parts and Baileys on this site. No problems from either. They stock the most common parts for stihl saws. I'm after little seals, odd gaskets and the like. The Ace hardware just put up a stihl sign on the outside of their building. It is only 5 minutes from work I faxed them my order and hopefully they get it right. You should be able to find the paint from either site above or your local stihl dealer.

What about that bearing?

Brian

 

[huskydave]

If you can't find that part try looking on the side of the bearing for a number
and if you live near a bearing supplyer bring it in and they can match it up for you.