.063 .325

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Just to make thinking folks crazy . . .

Most STIHL chain is .063 gauge. The drive links are the same width at the top (which is why we use the same pre-sets when making up chain loops), but swaged or ground down on the lower half for .058 or .050 gauge chain. It actually takes them more work to make the 'thinner gauge' chains.

Most Oregon .063 drive links are straight gauge.063 on top and bottom, but most .058 and .050 chains are .058 at the top. Check it out with your micrometer.

Swaged Drive Link.png

If they were not consistent at the top of the drive links, the width of the kerf would change, and they might need different thickness guide bars, etc.

Exceptions include narrow kerf chains, and smaller pitch chains (3/8 low profile, 1/4 pitch, etc.).

Philbert
 
If you think there is not a reason behind it try some 3/8 full chisel chain on a ms 250 . I would as soon have a sharp axe

I assume you arent replying to me. Because my measurements prove a full 3/8 would be detrimental to smaller CC saws. Especially homeowner saws.

I'd use one of Stihls performance kits on a 261 converting it to Picco. I enjoy a fast cutting speed.
 
Just to make thinking folks crazy . . .

Most STIHL chain is .063 gauge. The drive links are the same width at the top (which is why we use the same pre-sets when making up chain loops), but swaged or ground down on the lower half for .058 or .050 gauge chain. It actually takes them more work to make the 'thinner gauge' chains.

Most Oregon .063 drive links are straight gauge.063 on top and bottom, but most .058 and .050 chains are .058 at the top. Check it out with your micrometer.

View attachment 667982

If they were not consistent at the top of the drive links, the width of the kerf would changes, and they might need different thickness guide bars, etc.

Exceptions include narrow kerf chains, and smaller pitch chains (3/8 low profile, 1/4 pitch, etc.).

Philbert

I just put the chains away. I will measure that for you later today. I have an Oregon EXL and Stihl RS in 3/8" .050", Stihl PM and PS in 3/8 LoPro, and a RS in .325 here I can check for ya.
 
How do you not understand that shorter links move the cutters closer together? That in turn means more cutters in the wood at any given time. A 325 chain has 11 cutters per 12", a 3/8 has 9. Do you get it now?
Absolutely, and my .325 7 pin rim moves less chain per revolution than a 7 pin 3/8.
 
Absolutely, and my .325 7 pin rim moves less chain per revolution than a 7 pin 3/8.

I wasnt arguing speed, you said it had less cutters when it doesnt.

325 with 7 pin
82 feet per second
3/8 with 7 pin
94 feet per second
 
Just to make thinking folks crazy . . .

Most STIHL chain is .063 gauge. The drive links are the same width at the top (which is why we use the same pre-sets when making up chain loops), but swaged or ground down on the lower half for .058 or .050 gauge chain. It actually takes them more work to make the 'thinner gauge' chains.

Most Oregon .063 drive links are straight gauge.063 on top and bottom, but most .058 and .050 chains are .058 at the top. Check it out with your micrometer.

View attachment 667993

If they were not consistent at the top of the drive links, the width of the kerf would changes, and they might need different thickness guide bars, etc.

Exceptions include narrow kerf chains, and smaller pitch chains (3/8 low profile, 1/4 pitch, etc.).

Philbert
Would make sense to save the extra process if most of their chain starts as .063. I'm surprised it isn't all .063, to save on cost.
 
I wasnt arguing speed, you said it had less cutters when it doesnt.

325 with 7 pin
82 feet per second
3/8 with 7 pin
94 feet per second
I thought in your previous reply, you were talking the whole loop. I know it has more cutters, but is the drive sprocket difference enough to make up for it? .325 903 cutters per second vs. 853 for the 3/8 using your chain speed #'s looks like 13000 rpm?
 
325 chains have MORE cutters, not less than 3/8 per any given bar length.

Also, narrow kerf 325 is considered to be the 325 .050 that Husky runs.

Gauge has NOTHING to do with kerf.

Yes, 0.325 has more SMALLER cutters. The 7T or 8T 0.325 sprocket gives less chain speed than a 3/8 7T or 8T sprocket. So those SMALL cutters are slower/cutter.
 
Interesting thread.I had a person that ordered a chain from Baileys at my suggestion. His saw was a Husky 51, same as mine. Anyway he brought the saw over with the new chain installed and bitched up a storm. Never gonna use that crap again.Well it turns out he has a .058 bar with a .050 chain. I always have a couple .058 ArborPro 325 16 inch new in box. Anyway his saw never cut better.Told him to read the numbers on the bar. He's a happy camper. I have an Echo that has a .050 and 325 16 BC. Everyone is happy. Yes I did charge him for the chain.
 
I thought in your previous reply, you were talking the whole loop. I know it has more cutters, but is the drive sprocket difference enough to make up for it? .325 903 cutters per second vs. 853 for the 3/8 using your chain speed #'s looks like 13000 rpm?

I always use 13k as a base for chain speed. Seems like an average top #
 
Gauge has NOTHING to do with kerf.

Yes, 0.325 has more SMALLER cutters. The 7T or 8T 0.325 sprocket gives less chain speed than a 3/8 7T or 8T sprocket. So those SMALL cutters are slower/cutter.

Dude FFS I wasnt even discussing that. I just noted that 325 chains called narrow kerf are generally associated with Husky and are .050 gauge. I know all about chains, I'm not stupid enough to think the driver thickness effects the size of the actual cut.

Why do people always start arguments with themselves. I did not come in this topic to argue anything. I just took actual measurements, with a quality caliper, and added them in.
 
By the way, the easiest (more accurate) way to measure kerf, is to snug the chain in a vice capturing two cutters from each side. Just tight enough to keep it from falling out.

Measuring the cut in a 2x4 is redundant, because wood splinters and gives inaccurate measurements.
 

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