064 rebuild/factory cylinder

[TommyWalton1974]

Ive got my factory 064 cylinder all cleaned up. The rings we're stuck causing compression loss. I removed all aluminum deposits, which we're minor, from cylinder with mild acid with q-tip.

My question is the plating is all intact except for a circular spot the size of a pencil lead. Maybe 1/64" will this small spot likely begin to spread?its locatated directly above the exhaust port.

 

[pioneerguy600]

I would say run it, I have seen many Stihl cylinders with small pock marks in the plating that came that way from the factory. They did not hinder operation at all and none have spread or gotten bigger.

 

[andydodgegeek]

Either run it or pay the $330 for a new Stihl 064 p/c. I would run it.

 

[Tobystihl]

My Stihl 020t has a similar pock mark on the intake side of cylinder (visible from the exhaust port) This has not caused a problem in the last couple of years use, I think you will be good to go!

 

[TommyWalton1974]

Thats what i wanted to know! And hear. Any recomendations on piston/rings/bearings?

 

[pioneerguy600]

Thats what i wanted to know! And hear. Any recomendations on piston/rings/bearings?

Only pistons I will use anymore is either OEM,first choice or Meteor that come with good Caber rings. For bearings a generic one from any bearing house with C3 designation will work fine but you will have to use the clutch side bearing only available from Stihl as that one has proprietary rights to it. Use OEM Stihl seals if you can get them, they are not overly expensive.

 

[TommyWalton1974]

Only pistons I will use anymore is either OEM,first choice or Meteor that come with good Caber rings. For bearings a generic one from any bearing house with C3 designation will work fine but you will have to use the clutch side bearing only available from Stihl as that one has proprietary rights to it. Use OEM Stihl seals if you can get them, they are not overly expensive.

I was only going to do the top end. At this point thoughaybe i should go ahead and pur crank and a new rod bearing too. That way i know what i have. I plan to keep the saw forever so i think thats what I'll do. Im hoping it will handle a 36" 3/8 with full skip. I am in excavating worl so the saw will be used much less than say an arborist.

Thank you for the advise!

 

[pioneerguy600]

I was only going to do the top end. At this point thoughaybe i should go ahead and pur crank and a new rod bearing too. That way i know what i have. I plan to keep the saw forever so i think thats what I'll do. Im hoping it will handle a 36" 3/8 with full skip. I am in excavating worl so the saw will be used much less than say an arborist.

Thank you for the advise!

Most times the crank radial bearings are good for the life of the saw, if there is no up or down play in them at all they would last a good long time if just left as is. The big end rod bearings are not easily replaced on these saws, it can be done but would cost more than what a new crank would be worth if you had to pay to have it done. The seals are easily done without splitting the case or removing the crank, just pull them and install the new ones. The top end is easy and straight forward along with checking out all the rubber pieces,either check them closely or just replace them all for piece of mind. God luck and let us know how it all works out for you.

 

[TommyWalton1974]

I just checked it and the bearing is tight on the journal. There is lateral movement though all the way across the journal. I guess that's normal. Once the cylinder is installed that will locate it in the correct spot i suppose. Im going to clean it up and go with it! Thank you

 

[redunshee]

I just checked it and the bearing is tight on the journal. There is lateral movement though all the way across the journal. I guess that's normal. Once the cylinder is installed that will locate it in the correct spot i suppose. Im going to clean it up and go with it! Thank you

Typically a little lateral play is fine. Its the radial play you don't want.
Bob