064 won't start

[Griggs55]

Picked up an 064 off marketplace that was in need of some tlc. Replaced the carb. Did a quick cleanup( gas tank, oil tank,etc..) . Had it running & cut a few cookies off a 30+" black walnut when it started getting really hot then shut down. When I tried re-cranking I wasn't getting any fire and the compression was intense ( to the point that I could barely get it pulled) .
So far all I've done is pull the spark plug to see if that relieves the compression, it does. Where do I go from here..

 

[muddy42]

Was the compression still extreme after the saw cooled? Was the carb at standard settings or too lean? Personally I would remove the muffler and look through the exhaust port for scoring or ring damage and through the spark plug hole. Id also check for a spark with a new spark plug. Before spending any money on a saw, you should always pressure and vac test - this is not the same as a compression test.

 

[lone wolf]

Was the compression still extreme after the saw cooled? Was the carb at standard settings or too lean? Personally I would remove the muffler and look through the exhaust port for scoring or ring damage and through the spark plug hole. Id also check for a spark with a new spark plug. Before spending any money on a saw, you should always pressure and vac test - this is not the same as a compression test.

THIS!

 

[Gord404]

a saw that old if it hasn't had new seals you might have an aiir leak but first as said remove the muffler and look a your piston

 

[Mad Professor]

Check yer piston. Don't run it until you do......

 

[Griggs55]

Thanks for all the advice guys...

Was the compression still extreme after the saw cooled?

Yes..checked it a few days later & it was still hard as he'll to pull.

Was the carb at standard settings or too lean?

I don't believe so..I put on a new carb as the diaphragm in the old one looked wonky..And I set it according to the stihl manual.
I'll check the piston/rings & check for spark..As for checking comp before buying...well, seller claimed it had been running ( and it was when I got it) and I got it for $250 so I figured that was a decent deal for a project saw...

 

[2StrokeFondler]

Thanks for all the advice guys...


Yes..checked it a few days later & it was still hard as he'll to pull.

I don't believe so..I put on a new carb as the diaphragm in the old one looked wonky..And I set it according to the stihl manual.
I'll check the piston/rings & check for spark..As for checking comp before buying...well, seller claimed it had been running ( and it was when I got it) and I got it for $250 so I figured that was a decent deal for a project saw...

Did you replace your carb with an OEM or aftermarket one?
Did you properly tune the carb after setting it to the manual's baseline?

 

[Gord404]

got a 390xp in the other night and it still had ok compreion but didnit sound right when I pulled it over so pulled the muffler and piston was scored seizing a ring or both in one spot- bad mix he used

 

[muddy42]

Thanks for all the advice guys...


Yes..checked it a few days later & it was still hard as he'll to pull.

I don't believe so..I put on a new carb as the diaphragm in the old one looked wonky..And I set it according to the stihl manual.
I'll check the piston/rings & check for spark..As for checking comp before buying...well, seller claimed it had been running ( and it was when I got it) and I got it for $250 so I figured that was a decent deal for a project saw...

Please also vac and pressure test. This is not the same as (and I'd argue more important than) a compression test. For example poor compression can be fixed with a new cylinder, piston and rings, but if you have a major bearing seal leak, you have just wasted your money. P&V testing is the bedrock of diagnosing two stroke issues and saves a huge amount of guesswork. As a rule don't spend serious money before this is confirmed. A mityvac is worth the cost and once you have it you can find masses of uses for it.