066 chain brake handle pivot pin!!!!!

[RiverRat2]

My Bro steve's 066 has the main pin that the chain brake handle pivots on broken off flush with the inside of the brake linkage compartment,, above the clutch,,,, any body ever changed one out with any luck?????

He is on vacation for the next 10 days and I was going to try and fix it for him while he is gone,,, I dont even see a part # for it in the IPL :monkey:

 

[Lakeside53]

How in gods name did he break that off??????

Just punch it out from the back - it's splined.

 

[RiverRat2]

Well Steve is the one with the big grapple truck,,,

Just punch it out from the back - it's splined.

He carrys an 066 and an MS440 in a tool box just under the passenger side of the dump bed for when he has to cut stuff up thats too big and stops him from getting a full load,,, its been broken for quite a while,,,Im sure he either dropped something on it while picking up a load or by cramming it in the tool box,,,, Who knows :monkey: :monkey: sometimes he hauls for the city and some of the inspectors will shut you down if you are caught running a saw without a chain brake on city property if you look close in the top picture you can see the 066 on the butt of that oak we had just cut the root ball off

 

[Lakeside53]

I dont even see a part # for it in the IPL :monkey:

It's either 1121 162 5200, or, 1121 162 5205, or, 1120 162 5200.... hard to tell exactly from the IPl, but they only cost 70-80 cents each so buy all three.

If you can't figure it out, I can make a call...

 

[RiverRat2]

I got it !!!!

It's either 1121 162 5200, or, 1121 162 5205, or, 1120 162 5200.... hard to tell exactly from the IPl, but they only cost 70-80 cents each so buy all three.

If you can't figure it out, I can make a call...

Thanks Andy I really appreciate it

actually I have an old case that one of Jody's employees had run over a couple of years ago right after the Hurricane and Ive been robbing parts off of it I just put the hurt on that one,,,, the pin acually was broken slightly beneath the surface on one side and it made a perfect guide for my drift,,, I couldn't get lined up on it very well from the cylinder side,,, IT actually came out quite nicely, over all it went pretty good but I found more stuff broken So I orderd a complete buffer kit and a carb kit,,,, his diaphram is getting weak the saw is an 01 model and has had the Cr@p beat out of it,,, It Stihl had the original spark plug in it ,,,,and just before he left he told me it as getting hard to start :monkey: He's hard headed,,, still running dino and regular gas and he wont Listen otherwise either!!!!

Well you can lead a horse to water but,,, you can't make him drink!!!!

Andy do you know the correct part # for The carb on my 056 Mag II????

Looks like WJ-4 M4 ????? the check valves on mine arent holding,:bang: :bang:
1115 120 0600 . 1 - 31 1 Carburetor HS-118B or 1115 120 0602 1 Carburetor WJ-4B
. 2 - 30

 

[Lakeside53]

WY-4 is ONE option for the Mag 2, but hard to find (I have one ). The Tillotson 118B is much easier to get (I have several).


Just replace the check valve (there is only one - part of the outlet valve)... 1115 121 5401. $4.00

 

[RiverRat2]

how do you get to it???

WY-4 is ONE option for the Mag 2, but hard to find (I have one ). The Tillotson 118B is much easier to get (I have several).


Just replace the check valve (there is only one - part of the outlet valve)... 1115 121 5401. $4.00

Ive never replaced one,,, can you guide me through it???? is that it behind the welch plug????? part # 9 in the IPL I see,,,, the "Valve Jet",,,, I suppose it takes some of those specialized walbro tools, Ehhh????

 

[Lakeside53]

Yes, Number 9... Not behind the welch plug. Brass - Punch it though to the center, insert new valve, drive flush. Elapsed time, 12 seconds. Value? priceless.

 

[RiverRat2]

Cool,,,,,, so if I cant get this one fixed,,, you can hook me up with a good one????? Ehhhh???

 

[Lakeside53]

Cool,,,,,, so if I cant get this one fixed,,, you can hook me up with a good one????? Ehhhh???

If you can't fix it you're worthless, but if your money is good, maybe...

 

[RiverRat2]

LOL,,, I'm gonna give it my best shot,,,,

If you can't fix it you're worthless, but if your money is good, maybe...

Besides, I can see you wont cut me any slack,,,or let me live it down :monkey: and I'd rather fix it myself for $4.00 than pay you a kings ransome for one,,,


and thanks to this place,,,, I have learned a bunch of good Small engine stuff since I've been hanging out here,,,,, My pocket books alot thinner, but it keeps me off the streets and out of trouble,,,,,err sort of :help: :help:

Back on Topic: I suppose I'd better change out the impusle hose and the carb boot on Steven's 066 while I have the handle off changing out all the A/V buffer's?????

 

[Lakeside53]

Back on Topic: I suppose I'd better change out the impusle hose and the carb boot on Steven's 066 while I have the handle off changing out all the A/V buffer's?????

I wouldn't bother if they look o.k. It's only 6 years old. If it was 12-15, Maybe... Boots aren't cheap.

 

[RiverRat2]

Well ,,,

I wouldn't bother if they look o.k. It's only 6 years old. If it was 12-15, Maybe... Boots aren't cheap.

Ill look at it real close look when I pull the handle tank assembly,,, the upper buffer on the clutchside rear has been torn in two for quite a while so every other buffer is really sloppy,,, it is hard to start initially but once its warmed up it idles good, restarts well,,& runs out fine and has good power but he AV is toast

 

[RiverRat2]

Bump,,, Hey lakeside,,,, On The 056 Mag II

did a leak test on the carb body itself with the covers off and the big check valve is not leaking,,,, ????? got to looking and the gas appears to be running out around the front of the carb when you try to start it??? I lookd on the IPL and it shows a straight gas line and an elbow?????? that looks toward the "Carb Box" is there a port in the front of the carb body for the fuel inlet?????? the carb only has the impulse hose connection on the bottom cover,,,,,, how is it plummed from the elbow... is there an internal conduit in the carb box?????? then the fuel is introduced through the gasketed surface junction of carb and carb box do I have to pull the tank to see whats going on???????

Feeling more worthless by the minute!!!!!!!

 

[Lakeside53]

More like by the second


There's a nipple (don't stall - keep reading..) inside the tank that goes to an internal bore in the casting. If it's leaking from the front of the carb it's the boot <> carb seal. Pull of the carb you'll see it.

Hook out the fuel line, take off the filter, connect a pressure pump to the fuel line and test the carb/boot seal that way. Don't over pressure it.. you'll blow the fuel hose off the nipple and it's a b-i-t-c-h to get back on.

If it passes the pressure test for junction leaks, but still leaks though the carb, look at you carb - did you hook the metering arm to the metering diaphragm?

 

[RiverRat2]

More like by the second


There's a nipple (don't stall - keep reading..) inside the tank that goes to an internal bore in the casting. If it's leaking from the front of the carb it's the boot <> carb seal. Pull of the carb you'll see it.

Hook out the fuel line, take off the filter, connect a pressure pump to the fuel line and test the carb/boot seal that way. Don't over pressure it.. you'll blow the fuel hose off the nipple and it's a b-i-t-c-h to get back on.

If it passes the pressure test for junction leaks, but still leaks though the carb, look at you carb - did you hook the metering arm to the metering diaphragm?

I looked @ that seal it appeared ok but at the time I DID NOT UNDERSTAND,,, how it worked in conjuntion with the fuel supply,,,So,,,,It is the same as the carb boot on any saw and not only must seal in pressure and vacumn service,,,, but has a hole that has to align with the orifice that supplies fuel mix and could be compromsed by improper alignment with the end of the carb boot and could be causing the fuel to miss the fuel inlet bore in the face of the carb and go everywhere in the carb box ecept in the carb eh????

Yes I hooked the new metering diaphram on the end of the inlet control lever,,,ya know what,,, there's no hole in the end of the fuel jet (check valve),, or outlet valve!!!!!
The air is barely bubbling from a tiny hole that is surrounded by all aluminum,,, not Brass???:monkey: :monkey:

 

[Lakeside53]

,,ya know what,,, there's no hole in the end of the fuel jet (check valve),, or outlet valve!!!!!
The air is barely bubbling from a tiny hole that is surrounded by all aluminum,,, not Brass???:monkey: :monkey:

I think you are confused... The WJ-4 outlet valve protrudes into the venturi - it is most certainly brass and it most certainly has a hole in the VENTURI end. The fuel is fed via the H needle to the valve INSIDE the body.


As for your air bubbling... you'll need to be more specific... which of the zillion holes are you talking about. Pic?

Next question?

 

[RiverRat2]

OK Smarty

I think you are confused... The WJ-4 outlet valve protrudes into the venturi - it is most certainly brass and it most certainly has a hole in the VENTURI end. The fuel is fed via the H needle to the valve INSIDE the body.


As for your air bubbling... you'll need to be more specific... which of the zillion holes are you talking about. Pic?

Next question?

I am aware of what you are saying and as for me being confused,,,, well,,, :monkey: there may be some truth to what you say.....
I'm using the homebrewed barclamp pressure tester that you remove both covers on the carb,,, clamp the carb body in the middle of the plastic jaws intake face to airfilter face blocked, then put soapy water in the cavity where the fuel inlet lever resides and the out board end of the fuel outlet valve,,, the clamp has a hose bib with tygon tubing where you hook the pressure tester and apply gentle pressure or vac.!!!!

will have to break out the camera when I get back home,,, Down south through Friday

 

[Lakeside53]

Hmmm... that test won't work on an old carb - you don't have an L check valve so all you are doing is pushing air back though the L transistion ports to the metering chamber.

 

[RiverRat2]

OK then,,,,

Hmmm... that test won't work on an old carb - you don't have an L check valve so all you are doing is pushing air back though the L transistion ports to the metering chamber.

well thats a relief maybe the carb is still good,,,,It must be misalignment of the boot/fuel orifice or a problem with the fuel line/elbow fitting or something,,, once I get that fixed shouldnt I be able to remove the filter and pressure up to the needle valve in the carb??????