Hmm, I used that based on info from others here but I will keep this in mind, thanks.
066 clone wont run after carb replacement
- Thread starter lloyyd
- Start date
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I sure as heck don't need any more compression in my ns892 chinese junk. It runs like a raped ape with wicked throttle response and seemingly unstoppable power. And burns mix like a mofo....
All true, it sucks to yank on the rope for more than a few pulls for sure.
Until you do a vacuum and pressure test ( or spray test with brake clean), you are wasting your time and stand a good chance of a fried piston.
Magic wand available. $100/hour. No guarantees.
Magic wand available. $100/hour. No guarantees.
If you take that carb off some of the diaphrams had the hook type diapram some just had the button, in their great care about quality - not ----its worth looking at or your so called rubber gaslline could be collapsing in the tank, just 2 other ideas but i have heard there not bad saws for the money
Update, tried richening up the new carb, never could get it to idle. Did a quick clean/ run through on the old carb and installed it, changed the fuel line since one came in the kit and swapped the plug for another just like it, even though the old one looked new.
Started on the 4th pull. Let it idle for 5 mins, revved up and came back down nicely. Probably shouldn't have done all those at once since now I don't know which was the remedy. I'll just tell myself it was a combination of all 3. Hey, at least it's running.
I did to the brake cleaner around the flywheel, a few quick sprays did kill it. Not abruptly, just kinda petered out so I do have a leaky crank seal I suppose. I've never torn one down past the cylinder so not sure what I'm gonna do at this point. But the fact that it starts and runs is a small moral victory until I get motivated to mess with it again. Thanks everyone for the help, this forum is great
Started on the 4th pull. Let it idle for 5 mins, revved up and came back down nicely. Probably shouldn't have done all those at once since now I don't know which was the remedy. I'll just tell myself it was a combination of all 3. Hey, at least it's running.
I did to the brake cleaner around the flywheel, a few quick sprays did kill it. Not abruptly, just kinda petered out so I do have a leaky crank seal I suppose. I've never torn one down past the cylinder so not sure what I'm gonna do at this point. But the fact that it starts and runs is a small moral victory until I get motivated to mess with it again. Thanks everyone for the help, this forum is great
Lloyd the crank seals aren't bad to do, just buy 2 sets because everyone messes up with the first time.Update, tried richening up the new carb, never could get it to idle. Did a quick clean/ run through on the old carb and installed it, changed the fuel line since one came in the kit and swapped the plug for another just like it, even though the old one looked new.
Started on the 4th pull. Let it idle for 5 mins, revved up and came back down nicely. Probably shouldn't have done all those at once since now I don't know which was the remedy. I'll just tell myself it was a combination of all 3. Hey, at least it's running.
I did to the brake cleaner around the flywheel, a few quick sprays did kill it. Not abruptly, just kinda petered out so I do have a leaky crank seal I suppose. I've never torn one down past the cylinder so not sure what I'm gonna do at this point. But the fact that it starts and runs is a small moral victory until I get motivated to mess with it again. Thanks everyone for the help, this forum is great
I just watched a video, you're right, doesn't look too bad. Thanks for the tip on buying 2 sets.
SteveSr
Addicted to ArboristSite
Could also be the cylinder gasket or lack thereof. Without testing you're just guessing! Block off the intake and exhaust ports and pressurize the crankcase with about 5psi and dunk it in a bucket of water and look for bubbles. Although it is possible it is unlikely for new crank seals to fail so early in life.Update, tried richening up the new carb, never could get it to idle. Did a quick clean/ run through on the old carb and installed it, changed the fuel line since one came in the kit and swapped the plug for another just like it, even though the old one looked new.
Started on the 4th pull. Let it idle for 5 mins, revved up and came back down nicely. Probably shouldn't have done all those at once since now I don't know which was the remedy. I'll just tell myself it was a combination of all 3. Hey, at least it's running.
I did to the brake cleaner around the flywheel, a few quick sprays did kill it. Not abruptly, just kinda petered out so I do have a leaky crank seal I suppose. I've never torn one down past the cylinder so not sure what I'm gonna do at this point. But the fact that it starts and runs is a small moral victory until I get motivated to mess with it again. Thanks everyone for the help, this forum is great
What's the best way to block off the ports?
SteveSr
Addicted to ArboristSite
You can buy 1/8" rubber sheet at the local plumbing/hardware store. You can also use suitable size bike inner-tubes behind the muffler or carb. LOTS of info on this site about pressure and vacuum testing try the Search function and start reading. The bubbles will tell you if the ports are correctly sealed and where any other leaks are.
