stihlatit
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Thx Lake will also add the pressure test through the fuel hose to my list.
066 stalls when hot
- Thread starter Adkpk
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THALL10326
The Champ
Lakeside53 said:yes... but that's the easy part.
lol,good job Lake, every word you wrote is exactly what they taught us at Va Beach. You good ole boy, damn good. You should be teaching instead of working on them dirty ole saws................
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
stihlatit said:
And vac.. that's equally important as it checks that the tank can equalize pressure as the gas is drawn down. Some bad vents are real slow, and if the saw can get ahead of the tank, it gets leaner, then recovers at the end of the cut so it's real hard to detect.
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
THALL10326 said:
If I had Cuda, they wouldn't be dirty!
Couple more things...
Carb rebuilds are quick and easy, but are often not required. How many of you have rebuilt the carb and found the saw didn't run any better? I have... but I still do it as once I'm inside, a $4 kits may as well go in. The rebuild is Useful to eliminate a stiff diaphragm, leaking needle seat or whatever, but the problems often lie elsewhere.
When the seals are suspected but don't show up initially on a vac test, rotate the crank slowly.. often they will leak only in one small spot.
If the carb inlet screen has crud in it, don't just fix it and replace the fuel filter - Flush out the fuel hose - it's often full of crud.
THALL10326
The Champ
Speaking of lean burnt pistons
Down at Va Beach they told this story of a dealer who turned in 3 piston/jug combo's in less than two weeks for the same saw, a 066. On the 3rd set they balked on the dealer and starting asking questions , like what the hell is going on. Come to find out the customer who was burning up this saw over and over was using a 16inch bar and chain and was clearing brush with it in his fence line. Needless to say the dealer got no more free piston/jugs from Stihl.
They made it very clear a saw is made to cut, not scream. Dull chains they claim has killed more pistons/cylinders than anything. Some gotta make it cut those last 4 blocks on that dull chain. Reving high is a killer, cutting where its suppose to safely run makes for a long life...........
Down at Va Beach they told this story of a dealer who turned in 3 piston/jug combo's in less than two weeks for the same saw, a 066. On the 3rd set they balked on the dealer and starting asking questions , like what the hell is going on. Come to find out the customer who was burning up this saw over and over was using a 16inch bar and chain and was clearing brush with it in his fence line. Needless to say the dealer got no more free piston/jugs from Stihl.
They made it very clear a saw is made to cut, not scream. Dull chains they claim has killed more pistons/cylinders than anything. Some gotta make it cut those last 4 blocks on that dull chain. Reving high is a killer, cutting where its suppose to safely run makes for a long life...........
THALL10326
The Champ
Lakeside53 said:
Your more than welcome to da Cuda Lake, send me them saws...
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
THALL10326 said:
I got a very nice but destroyed 088 becasue it was screaming while cutting a big stump... Yes, control your RPM to less than 9 to 10k in the cut, and get off the gas when out!
THALL10326 said:
Did a real fine job on my saw..Other one still in transit.. :rockn: :rockn:
THALL10326
The Champ
Lakeside53 said:
I know you got a 088, boy do I, grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. One of these days there will be a 880 upon the throne, the shelf over the bed,lol, why, because you got a 088, grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
THALL10326 said:
And I know how much you'll have to pay!:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:
Madsaw
Addicted to ArboristSite
I had a very similar problem with a 920 jonny. I rebuilt the carb changed out all the electrical. Still run a few mins died out. Turned out to be the impulse line was cracked and old. As it would heat up the hose would get soft and lose its hold on the barb on the cylinder causing the carb not to pump. Also the heat caused a crack to open up in it too that was near the cylinder too. Replaced the hose and no more problem.
Bob
Bob
Adkpk
Addicted to ArboristSite
After doing all the things Thall suggested the other day, I started the saw. It idled at first but when it got warm it wouldn't. But it reved up good. I turned the L and H screws but they didn't help it idle. I tried to turn the idle screw all the way up and all the down but nothing there either. And I would like to add, I am not a mechanic but I am mechanically inclined. I put new heads on my dump truck last summer and it's running pretty good. I've been running and fixing my landscape equipment for 20 years. Just so you know I'm getting what your talking about. I don't think I want to go into this saw thought. It's going to have to go back to the same guy. What are your thoughts about that. As dumb as he may or may not seem, I don't think he is as bad a mechanic as it may seem because of my problem. It's a tough call because you guys do state things that he hasn't told me. For instance, I didn't realize the importance of high revving. I thought saws were made ot rev high all the time. Granted I know when any machine is reving too high. You can hear it over bearing itself. It has happened with this saw, especially when I scorched it the first time. I was confident he leaned it out and I was going like hell with it and loving that flying through that wood. But when it isn't in a log or while slabbing it will rev higher than it should but I know to get off the gas. Any way I will keep posting about this as it unfolds. Thanks, Thall, Lakeside and the rest of you guys. If you ever get up this way PM for my # I take you all for a beer. And give you some travel guide advise for the big city. ( and that's for Thall and Lakeside not the entire arborist site) Oh, and of course don't forget your tools. http://www.arboristsite.com/images/smilies/laughing.gif
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
If I "fix" a saw and it does the same thing shortly after wards, I eat the cost and fix it again. Generally a major fix has a 30 day warranty. Luckily I haven't has a major fix to eat as I go though everything to make sure it won't repeat. I get a the occasional saw thing back, usually were I couldn't duplicate the original complaint or a "runability issue" (like "runs bad when hot", "hard to start" etc).
I'm not sure of the time period involved - will you store do that... ? approach the issue carefully because just as you are suspicious of the store mechanic, they will be so of you... so have your ducks in row.
Did your guy pressure test the saw, tank and carb after the piston was replaced? I assume he used a Stihl piston, and not aftermarket?
I'm not sure of the time period involved - will you store do that... ? approach the issue carefully because just as you are suspicious of the store mechanic, they will be so of you... so have your ducks in row.
Did your guy pressure test the saw, tank and carb after the piston was replaced? I assume he used a Stihl piston, and not aftermarket?
Adkpk
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yes he uses stilh parts. I don't know for sure about the rest. The guy is on the up and up but he dosen't do anything for free. I would say he did all that checking but I wasn't going to go into what he did or didn't do. Oh, ya the new piston, jug was done last year. So knowing this guy I don't think he will give me a break. For instinst, After I bought all this stuff form this guy, (the saw, granberg mill, bars, chains, cant hook, pry bar, helmet,oil, ect...) I needed a raker gauge. He offered the plastic one for free but he wouldn't let that metal one go without some charge. I thought that was cheap. I even asked. I don't know how I am going to be able to face this guy. I should call him on the phone first. I am a very calm person but I can lose it. I would love to tell you all the story but I don't like to type that much.
Adkpk
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'm thinking about going in myself. What's the odds of me getting this thing apart and back together again? Stilh probably has bolts you need a special tool to get them off. Anybody on that? I took my ms192 apart to look for a bar oil leak. I couldn't get it back together. The handle is like a jigsaw puzzle.
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
Changing a piston and refurbishing the cylinder is easy. The problem you'll have is that you won't have the tools (and maybe the experience) to figure out why it happened the first and second time, and your cylinder won't survive a third pistons... if it's even o.k.this time.
If you want to do this... I'm sure we can help, but...
As for tools - you just need a long 27 torx.
If you want to do this... I'm sure we can help, but...
As for tools - you just need a long 27 torx.
stihlatit
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Lakeside53 said:
and a chainsaw ring compressor.
Hack
ArboristSite Member
I've followed this thread from the beginning and it's been highly educational. Thanks to all of you who have contributed.
But I still gotta ask....
What are you guys doing with a freakin' 90cc chainsaw???
I'm doing a quick look, and quite a few of you have a 660/066 in your arsenal.
Or is this simply an AS chainsaw forum thing?
Is there really timber 'round you guys that demands a saw this big, or is this just an overzealous hobbiest thing?
Me being purely a hobbiest, is a 90cc class saw something I should even consider? What I mean is is it really that much fun over let's say a 79cc saw?
But I still gotta ask....
What are you guys doing with a freakin' 90cc chainsaw???
I'm doing a quick look, and quite a few of you have a 660/066 in your arsenal.
Or is this simply an AS chainsaw forum thing?
Is there really timber 'round you guys that demands a saw this big, or is this just an overzealous hobbiest thing?
Me being purely a hobbiest, is a 90cc class saw something I should even consider? What I mean is is it really that much fun over let's say a 79cc saw?
