076 for anyone looking

[tomsteve]

Stihl chain saw


heres a couple more to get on her next trip!

 

[NuggyBuggy]

The muffler cover and area under the trigger handle looks way too clean in comparison to the rest of the saw.
I can't tell from the photos if these frsh looking bits have been replaced or just repainted - the muffler cover looks like a slightly different color so that could have been repainted. Based on the cosmetic damage on the rest of the saw it looks like the saw has been what I call "tumbled", that's put in a vehicle and allowed to roll around and over. That's one sign a previous owner has not been too careful with it. But these are tough saws and can take a fair bit of beating.

Wow Bob, those are some eagle eyes on you !

I took another quick look at it, the muffler cover is definitely a replacement part, looks almost new. It's not repainted. Underneath, the muffler looks new, but somehow doesn't "look" like stock - even though I've never seen another 076 in my life. It had a weird black coating on it, some of which came off when I touched it. It was almost like fresh paint, but paint couldn't be wet after 3 days, could it ? I couldn't figure out how to pull the muffler after I removed two retaining bolts, so wasn't able to look at the piston.

Hows the other side look, also how does under the clutch cover look?

Things look good there to me. Not brand new, but clean and not damaged.

Flywheel:

The 25% saw robbing power is a bit far fetched. I still have my 42" hardnose bar and provided the chain is adjusted correctly it works fine without any noticeable difference from a sprocket/roller nose bar. The only issue I found with hard nosed bars is the chain tension needs to be more carefully monitored since if it is over tightened it can rob HP. It's the same with any saw but the point to watch out for is that chain warms up quicker than bar so if you have been cutting for only a short period and the chain tension needs adjusting, since the chain has already slightly expanded due to it being hot but the bar has not, if you now tighten the chain, when the bar warms up and expands it will put an even greater tension on the chain. On a sprocket/roller nose bar this is less of an issue than for hard nose bars. Remember a chain does need some small amount of slack to cut properly. On long bars it can find that slack by just stretching the chain.

You will need more than one loop of chain so I'd suggest going to 3/8 chain for you other loops.

So Bob, if you were me, would you go replace the hard-nose with a sprocket nose ?

And, why do you suggest going to 3/8 ? Cost ? Other ? If I do go to 3/8 chain, will I need to replace the drive sprocket ? The sprocket is a 7T right now. I did just order two loops of .404 ripping chain (one Granberg, one Oregon), but the company hasn't confirmed the order with me so I could probably change.

Thanks Bob. I've learned so much from you, and the other fine people here, and I've only been here a short time.

terry

 

[NuggyBuggy]

Stihl chain saw


heres a couple more to get on her next trip!

LOL. I think she will not want to cross the border again for a long time !!

 

[BobL]

I took another quick look at it, the muffler cover is definitely a replacement part, looks almost new. It's not repainted. Underneath, the muffler looks new, but somehow doesn't "look" like stock - even though I've never seen another 076 in my life. It had a weird black coating on it, some of which came off when I touched it. It was almost like fresh paint, but paint couldn't be wet after 3 days, could it ?

My guess is the muffler was rusty (they all go that way). It could be some kind of pot belly or muffler type heat resistant paint which actually needs to be heated to set. Just run the saw - if it stinks like burnt paint and chars to black then the wrong paint has been used. If it is heat resistant paint it will go dull and the one I use goes a little duller.

Inside the clutch cover looks good as does the fan and inside the starter sprocket - better than the outside even, which supports my theory that it has been a tumbler.

So Bob, if you were me, would you go replace the hard-nose with a sprocket nose ?

No - I'd buy two loops of 3/8 and use it with the hard nose. This will be the quickest way for to get milling and give you an idea of how it performs.

And, why do you suggest going to 3/8 ? Cost ? Other ? If I do go to 3/8 chain, will I need to replace the drive sprocket ?

Yes

The sprocket is a 7T right now. I did just order two loops of .404 ripping chain (one Granberg, one Oregon), but the company hasn't confirmed the order with me so I could probably change.

You should consider replacing the sprocket when getting new chains anyway if it is even slightly worn.
I'd consider getting two 3/8 sprockets; a 7T and an 8T. The 8T 3/8 gives a 4% increase in chainspeed over a 7T 404 sprocket. The 7T 3/8 sprocket is 10% slower than the 404 but will chew really gnarly wood.thru

Thanks Bob. I've learned so much from you, and the other fine people here, and I've only been here a short time.

And I have done likewise from those before me.

 

[NuggyBuggy]

You should consider replacing the sprocket when getting new chains anyway if it is even slightly worn.
I'd consider getting two 3/8 sprockets; a 7T and an 8T. The 8T 3/8 gives a 4% increase in chainspeed over a 7T 404 sprocket. The 7T 3/8 sprocket is 10% slower than the 404 but will chew really gnarly wood.thru

OK, I will get new sprockets.

The packaging that the bar came in says I need 114 drive links and an 8T sprocket for 3/8" pitch. No indication of # of drive links for a 7t sprocket. Does this imply that the same (114 DL) chain will NOT work with a 7t sprocket ?

 

[NuggyBuggy]

Oh, my saw had a service tag on it, which read "NBW oil pump and gear". What would that likely signify? Rim sprocket was brand new.

Wanted to run the saw today but stupidly left my chain at home. I had expected to pick up ripping chain at my dealer - on the phone I was sure he said he kept some - only to find out he didn't have any and didn't know if he could get it in that length.

The saw started really easy. I wanted to have my dealer give it a tune up but he said he won't touch it: afraid of something happening while inside and not being able to source parts. Is that usual?

 

[BlueRider]

If the guy dosent want to get paid to work on your saw I wouldn't push him, but if he is a stihl dealer I wouldn't take my other stihl saws there either. There is nothing difficult about these saws and in some ways they are easier since the carbs are fully adjustable. A lot of parts are still available from stihl and there is a good supply of used parts on ebay.

You can find a really good pdf maual for the carb over on the tillotson web site. the carbs are easy to adjust.

If you are lucky nbw oil pump and gear means it has a new pump and pump drive gear, this is a $100 worth of parts if you can find them.

Sometimes you have to keep in mind that BobL isn't milling wood with his saw. I know they call that aussie stuff wood, but it's closer to stone. A 36" bar will get you a 30" maximum cut once it is mounted in a mill. I wouldn't waste money on a 3/8 7 pin, and would even think about picking up a 9 pin. I run a 8 pin with .404 on a 42" bar with my 075 so you should have no problem pulling a 3/8" 9 pin on a 36" bar.

For cost comparison I paid $300 for a mint condition 051 and another $160 for a new 075 piston and cylinder to convert it to an 076. and I consider the $460 I have invested in my saw so be a smoking deal.

 

[Rookie1]

Nice story. Youve got a saw with a special story to go with it.:msp_wink:

 

[NuggyBuggy]

If you are lucky nbw oil pump and gear means it has a new pump and pump drive gear, this is a $100 worth of parts if you can find them.
...
I wouldn't waste money on a 3/8 7 pin, and would even think about picking up a 9 pin. I run a 8 pin with .404 on a 42" bar with my 075 so you should have no problem pulling a 3/8" 9 pin on a 36" bar.

For cost comparison I paid $300 for a mint condition 051 and another $160 for a new 075 piston and cylinder to convert it to an 076. and I consider the $460 I have invested in my saw so be a smoking deal.

Thanks BlueRider. I wonder what nbw stands for... I assumed it was standard shop-talk.

On my dealer's recommendation, I ended up having him change out the drive sprocket to 3/8" 8 pins. If I wanted to go to 9 pins or 7 pins later, would that change the number of drive links needed ?

I'm pretty happy with the deals I got. In another thread I mentioned I picked up another 076 that weekend for even less - $300 Canadian. From the pictures I thought it had a chain brake, but when I saw it in person it did not, just a hand guard. But the guy had driven 30 minutes to meet me, so I felt I had to buy it:biggrin:. I also figured having a parts saw couldn't hurt. The second saw seems to run great.

 

[NuggyBuggy]

You should consider replacing the sprocket when getting new chains anyway if it is even slightly worn.
I'd consider getting two 3/8 sprockets; a 7T and an 8T. The 8T 3/8 gives a 4% increase in chainspeed over a 7T 404 sprocket. The 7T 3/8 sprocket is 10% slower than the 404 but will chew really gnarly wood.thru

Bob, my dealer told me than an 8T would yield SLOWER chainspeeds but more torque than a comparable 7T. He likened it to bicycle gearing, more teeth on bigger gear= lower speed at the other end. Is he wrong ?

Nice story. Youve got a saw with a special story to go with it.:msp_wink:

It's definitely a good story on my end when I'm with the boys. Not so funny for her. Thankfully, she is past crying about it. Until I bring it up again.

 

[betterbuilt]

Bob, my dealer told me than an 8T would yield SLOWER chainspeeds but more torque than a comparable 7T. He likened it to bicycle gearing, more teeth on bigger gear= lower speed at the other end. Is he wrong ?

Congrats on the new saw!

BobL is right. The larger rim will yeild a faster speed with less torque. When milling you want the fastest chain speed that your saw can handle. If your saw is stopping in the cut you should drop the rim down a size. The opposite is true also. One thing I have to stress is the torque on the clutch. You want to use a torque wrench and get it right. I don't use the expensive chain brake on mine, I use the oldest beat up cover I have. The chain cover will get ruined at some point.

Make sure you have a good air filter on that saw. Any screws you take out you'll need to use blue loctite on them. It wouldn't hurt to have a few spares. Be careful not to strip them out, the magnesum is pretty soft.

 

[Talltom]

Your dealer's looking at the wrong end of the bike! At the pedal (drive) end, more teeth = faster chain speed per revolution. Highest speed is achieved with large sprocket at the pedal and smallest at the wheel. Changing sprockets should not require a different chain length unless you're already at the limit of the adjuster. Difference in overall length is half the difference in the circumference, which comes out to 3/8 inch per tooth.