That is a mighty good offer.
'15 Echo CS620PW Information
- Thread starter BGE541
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Friidayyy13
ArboristSite Member
I might do that Reed, give you something to toy around with 
CoreyB
Addicted to ArboristSite
You can't find a better offer unless you just want to do it yourself.Send it to me ill rebuild it for you, all your out is cost of parts and shipping!
Chris J.
Addicted to ArboristSite
I started a thread about this many years back, even included some photos, which were later lost in a site server crash.
I have a CS-440 (not a 4400, not an EVL) needing a good P&C and brake band. To answer the inevitable question, both the P&C are badly scored; no way to salvage the C. The cost of new OEM is very near what a clean used CS-440 sells for. If anyone has a good P&C (my understanding is 520 top end will work) for sale or trade, or is interested in the carcass, let me know.
I have a CS-440 (not a 4400, not an EVL) needing a good P&C and brake band. To answer the inevitable question, both the P&C are badly scored; no way to salvage the C. The cost of new OEM is very near what a clean used CS-440 sells for. If anyone has a good P&C (my understanding is 520 top end will work) for sale or trade, or is interested in the carcass, let me know.
Friidayyy13
ArboristSite Member
Yeah a complete "short block" even though it's cylinder piston rod crankcase etc. is $150ish on sawagain.com
Might just run it (still runs decent) and mod the muffler and wait to see if it explodes.
Might just run it (still runs decent) and mod the muffler and wait to see if it explodes.
I would at least pull it apart and see whats going on, you may be able to clean up the cyl now and throw in a new ring and clean the piston and have it be a great saw... but if you just more it and run it to the ground then its gonna be hardbroke...
Chris J.
Addicted to ArboristSite
I do have the CS-440 apart, and no, the p&c are heavily scored. When the photos were still up, the consensus here on AS was definitely need to replace both. I even checked around with a few shops, a couple are authorized Echo dealerships, but it was No Go on a used top end or a parts saw with a good top end.
Friidayyy13
ArboristSite Member
So I drilled a 3/8" hole threw my cat on the muffler (cs400) and cleaned up the exit and took off the extra "flap" of metal on the shroud. Boy does it feel like a different saw. I haven't even tuned it yet, need to take the limiter caps off if someone has a video or write up on how.
Then I have to learn how to tune these things.
So far I'm glad I modded my own muffler.
As for the 620 since its brand new and beautiful I'm probably going to have reed mod that saw. I don't want to mess up such a beauty.
I'll take pics of the muffler tomorrow. KEEP IN MIND ITS NOTHING PRETTY haha.
Then I have to learn how to tune these things.
So far I'm glad I modded my own muffler.
As for the 620 since its brand new and beautiful I'm probably going to have reed mod that saw. I don't want to mess up such a beauty.
I'll take pics of the muffler tomorrow. KEEP IN MIND ITS NOTHING PRETTY haha.
Friidayyy13
ArboristSite Member
Quick question, it's safe to power wash a chainsaw right? As long as the intake/exhaust don't get water in them. I always wipe them down but man would it be easier lol
Chris J.
Addicted to ArboristSite
Take care with the recoil spring, they just love to breed rust.
CoreyB
Addicted to ArboristSite
Power washing and even high air pressure have one large down fall you need to be aware of. The pressure can push dirt and debris into places you do not want it like bearings or throttle cables, even pushing dirt through air filters. Just be very careful.
I find cleaning the saws after ever use does not require any elbow grease and the saws stay clean.
I find cleaning the saws after ever use does not require any elbow grease and the saws stay clean.
Chris J.
Addicted to ArboristSite
For dirty parts where you can see where the dirt goes, and water won't hurt anything, PW is fine, and quick. I prefer spray bottles with a strong stream, one a cleaner mix (I use generic purple cleaner, but just about any of them will get the job done) and one with plain water for rinsing. That way I can direct the spray only where I want it to go. And I thoroughly blast the parts with an air gun hooked up to a compressor.
At one time I had posted photos of my Parts Washing Set-Up (several plastic 5 gallon buckets with strategically drilled holes, and a cone shaped sieve for bolts, screws, etc.). The posts were kind of humorous as well. Unfortunately the images got lost in an AS server crash.
At one time I had posted photos of my Parts Washing Set-Up (several plastic 5 gallon buckets with strategically drilled holes, and a cone shaped sieve for bolts, screws, etc.). The posts were kind of humorous as well. Unfortunately the images got lost in an AS server crash.
Big Block
WFO or I don't go
So the machine work on the jug is done as of last night. When I get back in the shop I'll take some pics.
Have a good day fellas
Have a good day fellas
D
Deleted member 83629
Guest
Put a loop of Stihl 63PS chain on that cs400
Big Block
WFO or I don't go
.018 squish
Be sure and check the piston support that it doesn't bottom out
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Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk
Big Block
WFO or I don't go
Big Block
WFO or I don't go
10-4 it checks out ok. .018 on my mititoyo calipers and full flush base to case. Thanks @rattler362. No time for a piss rev video to busy checking temp and tune. I'll torque the head tomorrow and do a vid. Lots more pop.
