16:1 32:1 40:1 50:1 fuel mix

[dsell]

I've been reading some posts and replies this morning on roached pistons, ethanol, and fuel mixes. If the same person, (me), tunes the same saw with 16:1, 32:1, 40:1, or 50:1 mixture, is there really any difference? I was taught buy a Homelite mechanic in the 80's to rev the saw to full rpms and lean the high screw until it's screaming smooth, then open the screw back up until it glugs. I have a pile of saws, mower, hedge trimmer, weed wacker that are all 2 cycle engines. I use the same can of gas for the whole mess, 32:1. There is a Husqvarna 50 in the family that was purchased in 87, cut many cords of wood, still running today on the same piston, tuned at 32:1.

I don't like the ethanol in fuel due to the effects on the fuel lines. It also seems to go bad extremely quick. However, where am I suppose to find fuel without alcohol? It will be a very cold day when I buy canned gas premixed for $24 a gallon. We have 87 and 89 octane at the pumps in this town, and I'm not sure of the 3rd rating at some stations because I've never bought it. Other than the fuel line problem and the shelf life, is the ethanol really a problem for homeowners like myself that cuts 3 cords of wood a year? I drain my saws and run them dry at the end of the season. I leave the fuel caps off for a week to let the rest evaporate.

 

[o8f150]

i put marine stabil in with the mix, it does help the shelf life

 

[MS460WOODCHUCK]

I have all of my saws tuned to run at 40:1 and use nothing but synthetic mixed into 89 octane. I won't run fuel that has set much more than about 6 weeks. JMO

 

[FATGUY]

The oil mix ratio is not determined so much by the manufacturer of the OPE but the manufacturer of the oil. I find temperature has more of an effect on tune than mix ratio. As far as ethanol goes, you have 2 things to worry about. Rotting fuel lines and diaphragms are one and the second is fuel degredation. Degredation can be lethal to your OPE because the water seperation will literally wash the oil off components. This can be avoided by never using mix older than 6 weeks . Fuel lines and diaphragms will rot quicker regardless of mix age. That ethanol is always in there eating away.

 

[tbone75]

I've been reading some posts and replies this morning on roached pistons, ethanol, and fuel mixes. If the same person, (me), tunes the same saw with 16:1, 32:1, 40:1, or 50:1 mixture, is there really any difference? I was taught buy a Homelite mechanic in the 80's to rev the saw to full rpms and lean the high screw until it's screaming smooth, then open the screw back up until it glugs. I have a pile of saws, mower, hedge trimmer, weed wacker that are all 2 cycle engines. I use the same can of gas for the whole mess, 32:1. There is a Husqvarna 50 in the family that was purchased in 87, cut many cords of wood, still running today on the same piston, tuned at 32:1.

I don't like the ethanol in fuel due to the effects on the fuel lines. It also seems to go bad extremely quick. However, where am I suppose to find fuel without alcohol? It will be a very cold day when I buy canned gas premixed for $24 a gallon. We have 87 and 89 octane at the pumps in this town, and I'm not sure of the 3rd rating at some stations because I've never bought it. Other than the fuel line problem and the shelf life, is the ethanol really a problem for homeowners like myself that cuts 3 cords of wood a year? I drain my saws and run them dry at the end of the season. I leave the fuel caps off for a week to let the rest evaporate.

Sure sounds like your doing just fine!I just use fresh mix and do just as you running them dry if I don't plan on using them for a while.I never keep the mixed gas more then a month.I just put it in the mower and use it up after that.I don't think the ethanol is that big of problem.Other than what you already stated.The only real problem with new saws I have seen is they are set way to lean from the factory due to epa crap.I think thats why the box store saws never last long.

 

[Slamm]

Find a little local airport and buy their 100LL aviation gas and worry no more. I run it and leave it in everything weedeaters, saws I don't use much or often (084/036), they all start and run fine with no loss of use or repairs needing to be made in years with regards to bad gas or ethanol eating up the rubber lines and gaskets .................. read that again............ zero problems, and I leave it in everything never have to drain it or wonder what mix is where. Everything gets the bluish 100LL with bluish Amsoil Saber (have run it at 80:1 and now at 50:1 and between depending on whats left in the bottle, LOL), and it goes into Blue Kerosine jugs. My wife and I are the only people allowed to mix the gas in those tanks, no kids or employees or newbies.

I only use car gas if there are several cutters running saws per day and we are burning up 5-15 gallons per day, and I know its going to get used quickly (93 octane).

That is what I do.

Sam

 

[2dogs]

I run Opti 2 at 100:1 in everything from the hedgers to the cursed 090. No problems even with California gas with Obamathol. I only mix what I need for a week, never more than 10 gallons at a time, and like Sam I do the mixing. (On ocassion I mix Blenzol but since it is clear I am prohibited from using on company jobs.)

In my opinion corn should be used to make tortillas, corn on the cob, and chicken feed. Corn is a great food source but a lousy fuel source. But, I live in Cali and I don't want to buy race gas so instead I use only Chevron Supreme.

 

[gallegosmike]

Buy a few cans of 40fuel or 50fuel and use it flush out the carb on your saws. During the firewood season. I fill up the night before I go cutting. Normally the day after or so. I clean up my saws and flush out my premix with 40fuel. I've using "Marvel Mystery Oil" & stabil in my premix and it seems to be helping out with the ethanol.

I use only 91 octane because it has the lowest amount of ethanol @ 5% vs. 86 or 88 octane @ 10% ethanol. That is local to me, I am not sure about any where else.

I live at high altitude, so the weasels short us on octane ratings because engines can get by with lower octane amounts! On N/A engines at high altitude, less effective compression ratio you have(other then turbo or super charged) so lower octane fuel is okay use.

My .02

Mike

 

[dswensen]

Probably a dumb question, but here goes.

I read all the time about ethanol killing fuel system components. Is this only if you leave the fuel in the system? I mean, I drain my fuel tanks and then run the carbs dry before I put them away (I don't get to cut as much as I'd like). When they have been drained, run dry, and put away, is the ethanol residue still eating the parts? Or is the danger only there if you store the saw with fuel in it?

 

[FATGUY]

I read all the time about ethanol killing fuel system components. Is this only if you leave the fuel in the system? I mean, I drain my fuel tanks and then run the carbs dry before I put them away (I don't get to cut as much as I'd like). When they have been drained, run dry, and put away, is the ethanol residue still eating the parts? Or is the danger only there if you store the saw with fuel in it?

I think as long as there is ethanol in the gas it's doing damage. If your tank and lines are dry/empty I doubt the residual ethanol would do any harm.

 

[CTYank]

I read all the time about ethanol killing fuel system components. Is this only if you leave the fuel in the system? I mean, I drain my fuel tanks and then run the carbs dry before I put them away (I don't get to cut as much as I'd like). When they have been drained, run dry, and put away, is the ethanol residue still eating the parts? Or is the danger only there if you store the saw with fuel in it?

From what I can see, it's paranoia.

Undoubtedly there are retailers who let water collect in their tanks, possibly dissolving partly in the ethanol. Low turnover would be an indicator. WTF is "ethanol residue"? Some sort of whiskey memory?

Most all 50:1 synthetic mix oils contain fuel-stabilizer, so the paranoia there should dissipate.

Not a bad idea to store fuel/mix in sealed containers, and avoid high humidity same as with saws.

 

[WoodChuck'r]

I actually said this in another thread:

As far as fuel mix goes, use whatever you normally use. S'gonna be drinking that it's whole life so might as well start it on the cocktail you plan on using for the life of the saw.....

As far as break in, I personally like to make sure the cylinder is hot to the touch the first half a dozen starts or so, but that's just me and honestly it's not all that necessary. As far as how to run it - run it like hell. No need to baby the snot out of it, it'll be fine. A lot of people get paranoid with "breaking in" a new saw. I have no clue why. Everyone does something different - from a heavy oil mix and not letting it cut at over 5,000rpm for the first two tanks, all the way to guys filling them up with 50:1 dino oil and not even waiting for it to warm up on the first fire as they start to take down a huge oak tree.....

Hate to say this but there's really no right or wrong answer here. Saws aren't 100% ********** proof, but I'm pretty sure the engineers who get paid an ungodly large amount of money to design this stuff take in to consideration that there will be much douche baggery going on when no one chooses to follow the manufacturers suggestion of what oil to use and how it should be mixed or how the saw should be run, ect. Most dealers usually tune the H out a bit just to keep it rich so the saw is pretty idiot proof and after a few tanks you go back in and they turn the H in a half a turn then your saw runs for a long time (generally with no issues with the P&C due to improper break in techniques being prevented by the dealer). I have yet to see a thread about someone's cylinder blowing up because their fuel ratio was wrong on the first tank, or because they didn't let it idle long enough during the first tank before using it to cut with, or because they didn't baby it enough.....

You'll hear lots of arguments of what to do and what not to do. Just know that your saw will be fine no matter what you end up doing, unless of course you put to test the woods I just said and mix up a fuel ratio of 200:1 - which is something I would advise against doing by the by.

Boy oh boy am I ever gonna get some **** thrown in my face for making this post. The hounds will certainly be let loose on me for this one.

 

[gallegosmike]

From what I can see, it's paranoia.

Undoubtedly there are retailers who let water collect in their tanks, possibly dissolving partly in the ethanol. Low turnover would be an indicator. WTF is "ethanol residue"? Some sort of whiskey memory?

Most all 50:1 synthetic mix oils contain fuel-stabilizer, so the paranoia there should dissipate.

Not a bad idea to store fuel/mix in sealed containers, and avoid high humidity same as with saws.

Do not quote me on it, but I am of the frame of mind to think that most 50 to 1 synthetic mix oils containing fuel-stabilizer where formulated for non-ethanol fuels. It is one thing to have a stabilizer and another thing to have something strong enough to remove all the water that goes with ethanol laced fuels. Ethanol is super hygroscopic and even in so called sealed cans. You will get water contamination if you keep the stuff long enough.

That is local to me, you mileage will very...

My .02

Mike

 

[tallguys]

I run Opti 2 at 100:1 in everything from the hedgers to the cursed 090. No problems...

You run the 100:1 Opti 2even with older 32: or 25:1 2-strokes without any problems or issues? Just wondering as to how that works, is all.

 

[jcl]

I work for a rental company that sells and repairs chain saws. this year have had about a dozen of saws melt down. we got a e-mail from Dolmar that if gas in your area has more then 10% ethanol customers need to mix 50/1 synthetic 25/1 non

 

[MacLaren]

I work for a rental company that sells and repairs chain saws. this year have had about a dozen of saws melt down. we got a e-mail from Dolmar that if gas in your area has more then 10% ethanol customers need to mix 50/1 synthetic 25/1 non

It's hard to tell just how much Ethanol is in the gas though. I believe they passed a law in NC that as long as the tank/gas station says it has ethanol in the gas, then it dosent have to specify what %. However, for me, I've never ran gas with ethanol in my saws. I'm lucky enough to have access to a couple non-ethanol gas stations. I also use the VP94 No-Ethanol gas as well.

 

[Chris-PA]

I'm running Pennzoil Premium Plus Marine Synthetic and E10 pump gas. I use 40:1 for the Poulan, Sears and MAC, and 50:1 for the Husky and Stihl. I was running 32:1 on the Mac, but my third can cracked and I hate these new cans and their stupid spouts, and I refuse to buy another so it will have to get by on 40:1!

 

[Andyshine77]

I'm running Pennzoil Premium Plus Marine Synthetic and E10 pump gas. I use 40:1 for the Poulan, Sears and MAC, and 50:1 for the Husky and Stihl. I was running 32:1 on the Mac, but my third can cracked and I hate these new cans and their stupid spouts, and I refuse to buy another so it will have to get by on 40:1!

Pennzoil Premium Plus Marine Synthetic is a TC-W3 oil. TC-W3 oil is not made to run in air cooled engines, it will eventually cause carbon issues.

As far as I know Opti-2 is not recommended to be mixed at anything over 80:1 and to me that's pushing the limits of any oil let alone a semi synthetic oil like Opti-2

 

[Chris-PA]

Pennzoil Premium Plus Marine Synthetic is a TC-W3 oil. TC-W3 oil is not made to run in air cooled engines, it will eventually cause carbon issues.

Thanks - I'll change it.

 

[Chris-PA]

I dumped the fuel in all the saws and mixed up fresh with premium E10 (at least as far as I know it's E10) and Husqvarna XP oil. I pulled the plugs too and cleaned them where needed. The 3 saws I ran today ran great. I doubt I'll stick with the Husqvarna oil long term, but for this batch it works well.