192t timing advance
- Thread starter bayard
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KenJax Tree
Terraphobic
It really is simple to do, i was way over thinking it and it took me about 10 minutes start to finish. I used a square jewlers file and filed a step about .020-.025 or 1/3 of the key and it worked great, the throttle response went through the roof.
This helped.....thanks again Vince
This helped.....thanks again Vince
CoreyB
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yep this is going to make me take my saw apart. Lol that is some great info thank you for sharingand thanks to the guy who did the video.
KenJax Tree
Terraphobic
No problem it really helped me.....the member is VinceGU05 in Australia.
Magnum783
ArboristSite Guru
Don't go too far I have one I fear I may have done this with. I just bought a bunch of parts from a guy so I am going to try to swap it back to the original setup.
Will a flat file for rakers work just fine? Plan on doing this to a new cs 271t i have coming in the mail so I haven't seen the flywheel yet and don't know exactly what to do , just want to make sure I have the tools to do it though, I don't have a dremel
Hello,
I had similar issue. the molded in key on my 192t flywheel sheered sort of an allowed timing to move. long story short, I marked where the original "key" was. I ground a slot in the flywheel there with my dremmel. I got a woodruff key 1/8×1/4 I believe. I had to cut the length so it was same length as slot in the crankshaft. and then cut width of the key down so I didn't have to grind such a deep slot in the flywheel. If you grind to much out the old stick jb weld putty epoxy fills it in nicely and you can grind it back out if need be. if you want the actual key size I used let me know and I will dig it up. hope this helps
I had similar issue. the molded in key on my 192t flywheel sheered sort of an allowed timing to move. long story short, I marked where the original "key" was. I ground a slot in the flywheel there with my dremmel. I got a woodruff key 1/8×1/4 I believe. I had to cut the length so it was same length as slot in the crankshaft. and then cut width of the key down so I didn't have to grind such a deep slot in the flywheel. If you grind to much out the old stick jb weld putty epoxy fills it in nicely and you can grind it back out if need be. if you want the actual key size I used let me know and I will dig it up. hope this helps
The key is just there for alignment. It dies nothing to keep the flywheel from rotating once the flywheel nut is secured. The flywheel and crank have a tapered fit and this is what keeps the flywheel from moving. If it did move, either the flywheel is cracked or the nut was not properly torqued. There are a few extenuating circumstances, but they are far and few between.
Got to pick your brains on this 192t. New piston, caber rings (right side up lol), crank bearings and seals, new carb, ignition coil, plug, fuel lines, muffler mod, intake and exhaust ports polished. New flywheel (keyway was fubared on old one and I couldn't get it timed). Still can't get the dang thing to start. it will cough like it's going too. but won't start. I have adjusted and readjusted carb, double checked fuel lines, spark, etc. All started because bearings went and seals went. I'm about ready to power spike this thing in the driveway. Help lol
Back to basics... pressure and vac test the saw. Make sure you don't have any air leaks. I ended up doing seals in my 192tc twice from screwing up the install on one trying to do it with the case together.
Thanks, I will try that. I noticed when reinstalling piston and crank assembly, even at TDC I had some slop left in the crank and for it to set in the seals I had to push the counter weight to one side or the other. Is it possible I chose the wrong one and have it basically out of stroke?
The seals can only go in so far, they shouldn't hit the crank at all. There shouldn't be a lot a play side to side in the crank. Very, very little. The bearings and seals should sit in the case and locate themselves. The seals have a bit of wiggle room till the case bottom is tightened up. Nothing should be hitting the counterweight on the crank.
nothing is hitting. when installing piston and it is at TDC, i had to pick which side the counter weights went to set bearings in if that makes sense. it wasn't straight fully extended so I had to rotate counter weight to one side or other to set the bearings in proper location. is it possible I went the wrong way and that's why I can get it to start?
Ok, I was a bit confused what you were getting at with hitting the crank. No I don't think that would be your issue.
okay, well I'm at a loss then. between shop, parts, I could have bought 2 new ones lmao
