192T update and questions

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bytehoven

Pixel Wrangler
Joined
Dec 13, 2006
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Location
The First State
Greetings everyone...

I am coming up 1 gallon of java through the 192T, roughly 14 tanks. The saw definietly feels stronger now as it takes quite a bit more pressure in the cut to bog it down.

While out cleaning up some fallen limbs for firewood, a neighbor approached me about a fallen tree in his yard. He had a 20' pear tree with a 20" base and I like pear for firewood. So, I put the 14" bar on the 192T and a tank & half later, I had a nice pile of 12" sections to load in my Durango. I filled up the back of the D. :)

I had several occassions to bury the 14" bar while cleaning up the lower trunk section and stump, and it cut away no problems. This is with the 3/8 63PM1-50 chain. The neighbor offered to buy me a new chain if I dug down and got the stump trimmed below ground. I used his spade shovel to trench around the stump, and I was able trim and cover the root base. This was the only time I started to feel the saw struggle, when the chain started to dull from the dirt contact.

So I made $15 to cover a new chain, help an elderly neighbor in the civic association, and added a nice stack of pear to my firewood collection. :)

I have a couple of questions:

1) I assume at roughly 14 tanks, I am ready to visit my Stihl dealer for a break-in tune up? Should I ask him if he could tune it "in the cut" to get he max torque out of the saw?

2) Once I get it tuned, if I wanted to pop a modded muffler on the saw, what kind of tweak would I need to make to the fuel mixture?

I think the 192T could definitely handle a 16" bar with the Picco Micro .043 chain, but rather than invest in that setup for the 192T, I'll put that $$ toward a new mid-range saw.
 
The story would have been better if you had used a good tow rope to pull the stump completely out with the mighty Durango. Then we could have heard about the stump "self loading" into the back seat, after smashing through the back window.:rock:
As for your two questions, number one would suggest you don't think the dealer does a good job unless specifically asked, so maybe you should just let him tune it up. Think of it like insulting a waiter before he brings your food.
Question number two is about modding a muffler, and there are over a million posts about that, but to save you some searching time, you need to re-tune your high speed jet richer (out) after opening most mufflers. You either need an experienced ear or a good tachometer to do this. You also need the limiter caps removed from the high speed jet adjuster screw, and most importantly, you need an adjustable high speed jet.
You'll also need a good set of headphones AND earplugs (worn at the same time) to reduce the decibel levels the saw will now produce. It may also be important to get a bigger gas tank to carry spare fuel, the saw will eat more.
The upside is you will save money on winter clothing as you will be contributing plenty of VOCs, which help with global warming.:popcorn:
 
I wanted to pull the D around back for loading up, but the neighbor had overgrown hedges all the way around, and no way to get back there.

When I cleared the lot where I built my home, I used my old Jeep Cherokee to pull up many root balls of smaller trees. I left the larger trees stumps for the bulldozer which excavated the lot to finish grades. I also used the Jeep to pull down one very tall tree to get it to fall right on a dime. It was leaning such that I could never gotten it to fall where I needed.

The only real action this D has seen is blizzard driving/hunting in mountains of West Virginia, where we had to have chains on all 4 wheel to get into the national forest. :)

Regarding VOCs, don't worry. As soon as the SUN starts to decline from this peak output period, things will start to cool down. :hmm3grin2orange:

I hear you loud and clear regarding the dealer.
 
To add to Mike's wonderful advice, if you like the pretty plastic on the 192, don't do a muffler mod!!!! Do a search, I have listed how to do the mod on here.
Andy
 
I didn't notice any carb tuning advice in that thread.
What happens in real life is the carb tends to put out about the same amount of fuel, with or without a muffler, but without a muffler, it is moving a lot more air. If you don't adjust the carb, the saw is running lean and hot. The aluminum piston starts to melt, and the saw is done.
I have seen at least a couple threads started about a muffler mods going bad. You must understand carb adjustability, and wide open throttle adjustment.
 
Mike Maas said:
I didn't notice any carb tuning advice in that thread.
What happens in real life is the carb tends to put out about the same amount of fuel, with or without a muffler, but without a muffler, it is moving a lot more air. If you don't adjust the carb, the saw is running lean and hot. The aluminum piston starts to melt, and the saw is done.
I have seen at least a couple threads started about a muffler mods going bad. You must understand carb adjustability, and wide open throttle adjustment.


And you are absolutly right Mike!! The carb work was left out of that thread because, well, it went wrong! The limiters are not easily removable, the screw trick WILL NOT WORK!! You might, if you hold youre tounge right, get in there with a razor knife, I could not. I used a small chiesel, and bent the H screw. I have been asked a few times about this, and purposeley left it out hoping Lake or someone MUCH smarter than I would have a bette suggestion.
I promise, I am not trying to hide anything, I just hoped someone would help with a more correct way than I have?
Andy
 
Mike Maas said:
Thanks Andy, that's all I want, say adjust the carb on each and every muffler modification thread!:chainsaw:
It's not like handing out tree felling advise, or handling explosives... we're talking about a chainsaw's life here!


And you make another fine point Mike, again, many apoligies :hmm3grin2orange:
 
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