1st pull starting chainsaws,how?

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4pwr

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I guess I have had a garage full of 2 cycle engines of one sort or another. Most of them were not very easy to start. Any one have any tips on how to best increase my chances of starting one on the first pull?
 
Tell us what you want to start easily...there are some (usually older) engines out there that just refuse to start easily and quickly. Many can be improved, however. Including spraying a bit of fuel into the carb first!

You need to have good compression, good ignition and the carb must have fuel waiting at the venturi. Modern small engines use pretty much foolproof elect. ign systems and primer bulbs to achieve this. If you have to pull several times to pump the fuel up to the carb, better not get your expectations too high.
 
All of my saws start up on the first pull when warmed up, none of them start on the first pull cold. Nothing special done to them except the carb is set for best power/ RPM and I keep the filters clean and good plugs in them. Irregardless of what the individual starting instructions say all of the saws I own (and have ever owned) start best cold the same way. Set choke and high idle, pull until it pops (usualy one pop) Then unset choke and pull untill they start. Aside from the quirk 1 pull and 20 pull starts now and then this is about 3-4 choked pulls and 2-3 unchoked with the Stihls and my (real) Macs were about the same. The boys saws with primer bulbs start a little quicker cold. Since the fuel has to go through the crankcase to get to the cylinder it's hard to imagine a saw that starts on the first pull cold as a rule. If I could find a way to reel up and pull 20 feet of starter cord most of mine would be 1 pull starters, LOL.
 
I recall my old PM610 would start on one pull sometimes, including choke, but those times werent every single time. how it did that, I'll never know, cause I was NOT about to screw with it and screw it up.
 
Never had a saw that would start one pull cold. Everyone I had (and have) were the same unless something needed attention.

Set choke/fast - 4 pulls, 1 pop
Choke off- fast idle - 1 to 2 pulls

Warm they would all start on one pull.


Harry K
 
I had one saw that would routinely start one pull cold. It was a Sachs-Dolmar 133. All I can figure is that it didn't let the fuel run out of the carb after it was shut off. Most of my saws take from 3 to 6 pulls to start cold.
 
I have 2 of the top of my head, HVA 77, Jonsereds 601.
Starts with choke one pull plenty of time to put the choke lever back in.
 
Ps6000 Dolmar with the tilotson HS injection carb would usually start on the first pull, I've seen a 10-10 Mac do it regulary cold, and my 380 Mac with the primer carb will usually start the first pull.
If the metering lever is set a shade high it helps, say what you want but points&condenser and reed valves seem to start better than some new ones EVEN A NEW STIHL (for you lemmings)
 
New Stihl 361, cold start 3 pulls on choke to pop, 2 to start on high idle, blip to kick down. Every time. Hot start 1 pull on low idle. Every time. But I would not be happy with less for the money I paid.

Now the 31cc crapsman string trimmer, (not that I think all craftsman stuff is bad, but this one is!) that is a different story. There has always been something funny with that one.
 
The old Farmboss was close, it would start on the second pull if I was fast enough to pop open the choke. Cold. With the exception of the tiny echo, they all start 1-2 pulls hot. In the antique catagory, cold starts sucked, and warm sometimes required a ice bath to get 'em going. We used to have a Mac here that worked fairly well with a shot of gas sloshed on the breather.
 

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