Why shouldn't I "air start" my chainsaw???

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I have witnessed older men stepping on the airfilter cover and pulling up the recoil cord and the kneeling on the cover doing the same pull up on the recoil, they just could not get the speed up to start the newer module fired saws. These same fellows were too afraid to try drop start so they now either need someone else to start their saws or go without running them. Maybe it is for the best as if they are too weak to start the saw they may be too weak to run a saw safely.Each and every case is an individual one so no one size fits all. I can confidently start all my saws ,even the most high compression ones and feel lucky to do so. I still remember my 84 year old dad starting his 116 Sachs Dolmar and ripping into the big hardwood in the wood yard, he like me could only start a saw using the drop start method.
 
I drop start every time; however, the largest saw I have is a 480CD. Unless I have managed to flood a saw, then I'll ground start with boot on plate and try to start wide open throttle. IMHO, if you are not physically capable of drop starting a saw of the size you are using, you should probably ask yourself, "am I safe using this?" Just my two pence (cent) worth.
 
You do what feels right for you. I always drop started all my saws, especially my 2100 Husqvarna - (no decompression button). Never had a problem with it.

The guys that made the rules about always starting a saw on the ground have never climbed trees. As one of the fellows in our course said: “My arms aren’t that long!”
 
In school we were taught to put a stick through the handle and step on it, easier than big steel toes in places too small. Alternatively held between your knees was acceptable, I grew up with a Jonsereds 930 Super, which caught and kicked about 1 in 4 pulls, so for me, between the knees was out. I am well accustomed to 80+cc saws with 28” bars and have never felt uncomfortable drop starting them. That said, use of chain brake is quick, easy and negates almost all of the danger associated with starting. I find no need to hold the throttle wide open to start any of my saws. Honestly the biggest concern with starting a saw these days is that my newest dog seems to appear at the least opportune moment in the wrong place when you are sure she’s far away, and she is my constant shadow.
 
The reason is that you start a dangerous cutting maschine without a fixed position. It might move in any direction.

The problem with air starting is not that it kills every single time, but that is not safe every single time.

If you don't want to start your saw on the ground, you can hold the back handle between your thighs, one hand on the handle, one hand on the starter. Much safer and works very well.
I also use this method and have had guys comment about it. It seems to me that some perceive it as a "sissified" way to it, and therefore challenges one's manhood :) Best way to shut em up is pull out the old Husky 2100 CD and ask them to demonstrate their method. :)
 
I rarely drop start a saw. I do the “three point method” majority of the time. Between the legs, left hand on handle, right on the recoil. I start 3120 and 880/881 this way without decomp. Last “big” saw I ran was a 881 with 42” bar. Prior to that was 3120 with 44” bar. Everyone has their own way of doing things.
have you ever had the pull cord hit you in the ****?

Legit this would scare me
 
I also use this method and have had guys comment about it. It seems to me that some perceive it as a "sissified" way to it, and therefore challenges one's manhood :) Best way to shut em up is pull out the old Husky 2100 CD and ask them to demonstrate their method. :)
Nothing to do with manhood. It’s just more difficult having the saw fixed between your knees. You lose the ability to push the powerhead away with your left hand while you start it with your right. Larger heavy saws with longer bars are easier started on the ground usually
 
You wouldn`t want to start my flat top 066 then, that saw is a beast to start and coming from me that is a rare term. I built that flat top back many years ago when machining down cylinders was the ,in, thing to do, compression is over 220 lbs. and the timing advanced too far for starting, the old module no longer retards timing for startup so it will rip yer fingers right off the cord handle if ya don`t have a vicegrip hand hold on it, the saw has often bloodied the back of my hand when it has rolled up on its side when pulling.It laughs at Elastostart handles and recoil cord, has gone through 4 new ones to date. I could easily change out the module and return the saw to a mild starting state but it is just one of those love hate relationships between me and that saw, my other 066`s and MS660`s are a kitten to start compared to that ole flattop. No one else ever wants to run it wherever we go together, its noisy/loud brash and will punish you but I love the way it runs and cuts.
1/8” aircraft cable rather than rope? The Reed Prentice I sent to Mark has that. Insane compression.
 
I rarely drop start a saw. I do the “three point method” majority of the time. Between the legs, left hand on handle, right on the recoil. I start 3120 and 880/881 this way without decomp. Last “big” saw I ran was a 881 with 42” bar. Prior to that was 3120 with 44” bar. Everyone has their own way of doing things.
U bench 300#? 🤪
 
Nothing to do with manhood. It’s just more difficult having the saw fixed between your knees. You lose the ability to push the powerhead away with your left hand while you start it with your right. Larger heavy saws with longer bars are easier started on the ground usually
For me, anything over 28” gets started with the bar resting on the log. I used to be able to safely drop with a 36”…not anymore
 
I would never start them pinched to the ground.

1st its uncomfortable, 2nd the boot scratches and scuffs the area of the tank with all its grit, also the underside of the saw gets scratches especially if you do that technique on tarmac, thaths when saws look horrible with chipped paint and abraded off mag cases.

If i would be unsure i would just apply the brake and start it. i dont do that as well and never had any issues, also not on my 7910 Dolmars etc which can be harder to start.
 
I never even considered not pulling with my right, I am not sure I could even pull start my saws with my left lol.
You really should try to hold the saw with your dominant hand. Try it, you might like it.
Take a loose grip on the saw with your left and slow pull the starter and see how the bar travels.
I can't remember How the "instructors" teach it, but holding the saw with dominant hand and using gravity to assist the "push" away, affords better control of the saw.

It's not a lawnmower.

YMMV
 
You really should try to hold the saw with your dominant hand. Try it, you might like it.
Take a loose grip on the saw with your left and slow pull the starter and see how the bar travels.
I can't remember How the "instructors" teach it, but holding the saw with dominant hand and using gravity to assist the "push" away, affords better control of the saw.

It's not a lawnmower.

YMMV
I’ve seen some guys hold the saw with their right and start it with their left. It puts the bar and the dogs too close to my right leg for my comfort
 
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