2 Questions on Fliplines

[9th year rookie]

Q1
I've only used a steel core for a flip line. All my gear went missing recently (soon after moving equipment to new yard - arrrhh!). I've been trying out other gear from friends - most of the guys I climb w/use 1/2" 16 strand flip lines and I like the flexible/workability. I just ordered a 1/2" and a 5/8" flip line (double braid). Any comments on the double braid good or bad.

Q2
I've been using the CMI ropewalker for a flipline adjuster and recently discoved that some fibers from the flipline are showing up in the thin wire rope on the adjuster - anyone have issues w/that in the past?

 

[Tree Machine]

The thin wire rope is not needed. It's purpose is when you're up in the air and you seperate the cam from the shell, the cam won't fall to the ground. That's all. We, as arborists, would only need that if we're pulling the rope grab apart, say in using it for an SRT backup, in which case you're needing to take it off and put it on, midline. With your flipline, that is not the case. The adjuster never comes off, except when changing fliplines. There should be a pivot BOLT through the ascender, terminated with a nylon-threaded lock nut.

As far as a replacement flipline, man, if you're comfy and secure with a steelcore, I'd keep running steelcore. Don't spare expense when it's your safety. I know that's easy to say, because I didn't just get my gear ripped off, and I'm really sorry about that. But your flipline is life itself up in a tree.

I went over to 11 mm 'rope' line (Blaze, currently). I like the handling characteristics of the 11 mm, but I trade a certain level of full-on, bombproof security.

Then on the plus side, if you go 11 or 13 mm, you can idealize the length. For most normal dudes in normal trees this would be a flipline that goes around your waist exactly two times and you can clip it up, belly, upper hips area, out of the way of the rest of your saddle and saws. For a 165 lb dude that I happen to know personally, that length (eye-to-eye) is 7'9-1/2 inches (2.38 M). Add 2" for a Maillon Rapide to permanently connect to the right side D and that length will gor around the said 165# climbers midsection twice, and terminate on your left hip.

I know you know your rig, 9yr, this is some stuff for the general readership.

What do YOU need?

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

The wire is the spring to close the cam. If it snags your rope it might need replacing.

 

[JonnyHart]

Depending on what kind of double braid rope your new flipline is made out of, it may handle a bit similar to your steelcore. If it's a good coated double braid, like stable braid or double esterlon, it will be stiffer than 16 strand.

 

[Tree Machine]

Ooops, my bad.

I was comparing apples to oranges, wasn't I?

All that detail and I'm talking about micrograbs/microcenders and here this conversation we're having is about a CMI ropewalker.

Boy, do I feel silly.

As long we're off-topic already, let's stay with the cable part. Now, on a microCENDER, a springed-pin secures the thru-bolt and with the microGRAB a threaded axel bolt is the thru-bolt and a nylon-threaded lock nut secures it. CENDER is removable by hand. GRAB is removable by use of tools only.


Let's look at the other side of the CMI ropewalker

 

[9th year rookie]

Thanks

Thanks for the response!

I recieved some of the new gear today.
The 2 flip lines 1/2" and 5/8" double braid seem cool.
They feel nice to work with, not as stiff as I thought.

And I bought a new Gibbs for an adjuster/

Got some new steel wrap pads on the new sppikes, etc,,.

I can't wait to climb tomorrow, even though I'll look like a guy out of a catalogue.