200T Leaking Fuel AGAIN!!!!

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JTinaTree

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This is a question for you full time saw technicians or you saw hobby mechanics. This is the second time my 200t is leaking, becoming very frustrated now. I have had it for a year now after 1-2 months of use the vent on the tank split see (first picture.) After the dealer gave me a new one. I slid it in, However always seemed to leak some after that too. So now the collar surrounding the vent has now cracked. (second picture) The dealer tryed to help me but it falls under the 90 day rule now because of buisness use. So got to looking at a new 200t and seems they decided to remove the crappy sponge vent. Did I get a lemon maybe???

They redisigned it with a hose good idea, So the dealer calls up Stihl and they don't see why it would not bolt up to mine. He ordered me a new design tank $106.00. I am going to install myself ,I am a auto mechanic by trade so how hard can it be right????

Maybe some of you can give me some input on this, and if you have seen this problem before on the 200t. Thanks
 
You don't need a new tank.. The vent has been updated (about two + years ago) with a new vent kit (the old collar become irrelevant) 1129 350 5850 - about $10 or so. You use the supplied brass tool to bang in a nipple, then a short section of hose with a vent connects to to that. Secure the loose vent top with a tiny cable tie or a blob of RTV (bathroom sealer).
 
You don't need a new tank.. The vent has been updated (about two + years ago) with a new vent kit (the old collar become irrelevant) 1129 350 5850 - about $10 or so. You use the supplied brass tool to bang in a nipple, then a short section of hose with a vent connects to to that. Secure the loose vent top with a tiny cable tie or a blob of RTV (bathroom sealer).

The kit sounds like it would do, but I am concerned about the crack in the collar. See second picture, Im afraid it will get bigger with the added abuse in the trees, and spread to the top of the tank... So you are saying they got rid of the sponge vent and added a hose to where its going into the tank?? Sounds pretty ingenius to me, wonder why Stihl used the crappy vent in the first place..
 
The sponge-like vent was used since the begining with the 20T, and only changed a couple of years ago (EPA). The dual hose is for the latest tank only and really requires a new handle moulding to hold the vent end in place.

The old collar was just to hold the plastic cap over the sponge. The replacement kit doesn't have a cap so it doesn't matter if the collar is there or not. The new nipple mounts way down in the tank in the place where the sponge-like material was. Most of the collars get sheared off anyhow.

I sure wouldn't put the new tank on just to get the dual fuel/vent hose.


BTW, the part that seals the tank is not the sponge - it's the orange flapper valve inside the tank just beneath the vent.
 
That nipple replacement fuel vent for the sponge type is still not much better......Once you have tapped out the old style foam and replaced it with the nipple the vent that goes on there now is very easily snagged and damaged or lost!but it can be replaced with a pair of pliars easily,I would always have a couple just incase!.Your dealer should be aware that the kit to replace them is available,im supprised it was not fitted when you took it in and its a lot cheaper than a new tank!.

If you chose to do it your self and replace the tank or evan tap the foam out and use the replacement vent(thats what id go for).....A top tip is tape the throttle shut by wrapping some tape around the triger handle as it makes reconecting the carb linkage a breeze,other wise its a pig to reconect.

It was the only fault and most common with the older 200ts i would do one every 6 months or somtimes more!
 
It was the only fault and most common with the older 200ts i would do one every 6 months or somtimes more!

hmmmmm..OK

I must be reading this wrong.....are you stating that the only problems you have seen with the 200T is the vent?
 
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To hell with the 200T...I am not even sure how many 020t/200t's I have owned in the last ten years,but I have made my mind up that I am not going to buy another.I have had too many little things go wrong with those saws.I usually keep three running,and it just always seemed that one of em' always needed something...Last week I had one go out with bad crank sealy,yesterday I had another one start running dangeroulsy lean all of a sudden.I've had it,we can't keep getting up into the top of trees,then have trouble out of our fu?#ing saws.I am not sure what I am switching to yet.I have yet to try out one of those Husky arborist saws.Maybe it's part my fault,or maybe it's Stihl's fault,but whatever the case may be I've had too many little problems way too many times out of that saw.
 
That nipple replacement fuel vent for the sponge type is still not much better......Once you have tapped out the old style foam and replaced it with the nipple the vent that goes on there now is very easily snagged and damaged or lost!but it can be replaced with a pair of pliars easily,I would always have a couple just incase!.Your dealer should be aware that the kit to replace them is available,im supprised it was not fitted when you took it in and its a lot cheaper than a new tank!.

If you chose to do it your self and replace the tank or evan tap the foam out and use the replacement vent(thats what id go for).....A top tip is tape the throttle shut by wrapping some tape around the triger handle as it makes reconecting the carb linkage a breeze,other wise its a pig to reconect.

It was the only fault and most common with the older 200ts i would do one every 6 months or somtimes more!




You don't need to take the handle/carb assembly off to change the vent. Undo the lower handle mount, and the upper rear right mount. Pull of the impulse line, twist up the handle and you'll have a clear vertical shot to replace the sponge with the nipple. The secret to long life on the nipple kit is to secure it back to the carb box section of the handle with a small cable tie or blob of RTV.

The entire job is about 5 minutes.


The only problem I've had with the newer style vent is the 1 inch section of fuel line that connects the vent to the nipple can crack after a lot of use. Tying back the vent prevents this, and is what is done with the latest version of the vent line (the vent "plugs" into the handle molding).
 
You don't need to take the handle/carb assembly off to change the vent. Undo the lower handle mount, and the upper rear right mount. Pull of the impulse line, twist up the handle and you'll have a clear vertical shot to replace the sponge with the nipple. The secret to long life on the nipple kit is to secure it back to the carb box section of the handle with a small cable tie or blob of RTV.

The entire job is about 5 minutes.


The only problem I've had with the newer style vent is the 1 inch section of fuel line that connects the vent to the nipple can crack after a lot of use. Tying back the vent prevents this, and is what is done with the latest version of the vent line (the vent "plugs" into the handle molding).

Well, looks like im in for a new style tank replacment. I probably would have tryed the new vent kit. But I already told my dealer to order the new tank. After repeated leaking past the sponge even after replacing a year ago, I like the new style tank. Ya'll probably think I am dumb but I don't spare any cost when I wan't to fix a problem with my main saw. Even after a new sponge you could still see fuel seaping out from it with the saw hanging from the lanyard..

So how difficult is the tank reolacment on this saw?? How much time does it reqiure for the job?? Thanks for the input...:)
 
So how difficult is the tank reolacment on this saw?? How much time does it reqiure for the job?? Thanks for the input...:)

It's not too bad.The top handle has to come off,then there are two bolts on top and two bolts on the bottom that hold it on.Taking off that top handle was a pain in the but the first time I took one apart,but then once I figured out how to do it without taking apart the whole handle and linkage assembly,it made it a little better.It takes me about 30 minutes to swap the tank.
 
Remember, the sponge does little to nothing in stoping the tank leaking. Consider it an air cleaner to stop crud being sucked into the tank. The tank flapper valve is what stops the gas from leaking out.

It takes me about 20 minutes to change a tank, but an hour for the first one would be would be my guess.

The secret is DON'T disassemble the handle ... just remove it as a complete unit (detach wires at the front of the handle - they are just spade connectors).

Kit the vent and sell you old tank - or keep it for a spare.
 
It's not too bad.The top handle has to come off,then there are two bolts on top and two bolts on the bottom that hold it on.Taking off that top handle was a pain in the but the first time I took one apart,but then once I figured out how to do it without taking apart the whole handle and linkage assembly,it made it a little better.It takes me about 30 minutes to swap the tank.

I was wondering if the handle would come off without stripping it. I will see if I can get it off in one piece or so. Seems like once you remove the handle the rest is pretty easy. Thanks Timberhauler
 
It was the only fault and most common with the older 200ts i would do one every 6 months or somtimes more!

hmmmmm..OK

I must be reading this wrong.....are you stating that the only problems you have seen with the 200T is the vent?

The odd exhaust, the ally bar in the chain break and the not so tough chain brake hande breaking, the wires coming undone for the kill switch, rubber coller from the carb to cylinder splitting,the pin that lines up the side case falling out and the spacer for the side casing spinning so it blocks the chain adjuster, any thing else?
most of these didnt realy bother me as its just wear and tear any thing used like I use my 200t 's is not gona last but it was just that ?????ing vent causing the saw to run ????e that always got me.ill give my 200t six months from new before little probs start but when I tryed the husky offering it was six days and the problems far more serious.
 
On my 200's the hardest part was the spade wires. One broke . . . yep you don't want to take apart the handle if you don't have to.

Be careful with the rubber intake tube off the carb they can tear easy when old. There's a trick to puting it back on. Loop a string around it to pull it back in the handle hosing. Make sure the bottom is part is firmly connected to the engine. Also watch where the sparkplug wire goes.

If you're looking to get rid of the tank let me know.
PM me & let me know what you would want for it, I could use an old style tank.
 
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