2100 fuel tank mess

[scotiansaw]

Hello everyone.

Recently picked up a husq 2100 cd from the early 80s for $100. It has been sitting for over ten years. I cleaned the carb and poured fuel in it and it worked well. After some use. The saw would bog and eventually stall. After taking apart the carb, I noticed it was full of black thick oil. I never cleaned the fuel tank before use, just emptied out the old fuel.

Well when I poured it out, a fair amount of thick black oil came with it. Upon inspection the tank is absolutely disgusting and is caked in sticky black oil. I’ve tried flushing with gas and scrubbing best I can with no luck.

Could it be possible bar oil is leaking from the oil tank into the fuel tank? These saws have the casted body for both tanks, there is no fuel in the oil tank.

How should I go about cleaning this?

I appreciate it

 

[hotshot]

That black goo was likely the old fuel line that melted over time with bad gas.

May try some aggressive Berryman’s B12 Chemtool carb dip or spray cleaner & a handful of 1/4”-20 or M10 nuts to help shake it up.

Don’t leave that cleaner in the tank for long…maximum 15-20 minutes. The old gallon can formula I use can eat up aluminum & plastic. The newer non-chlorinated dip may be safer.

 

[scotiansaw]

That black goo was likely the old fuel line that melted over time with bad gas.

May try some aggressive Berryman’s B12 Chemtool carb dip or spray cleaner & a handful of 1/4”-20 or M10 nuts to help shake it up.

Don’t leave that cleaner in the tank for long…maximum 15-20 minutes. The old gallon can formula I use can eat up aluminum & plastic. The newer non-chlorinated dip may be safer.

Thanks for the tip hotshot. It doesn’t appear that product is available as I’m in Canada but I will have a look around. It is the aerosol carb cleaner?

 

[snobdds]

Here is what the inside of the tank looks like for informational purposes.

 

[Okie]

Just couple hints to get a good cleaning and not strain yourself.
To make it easy on myself and give tanks a good cleaning, including chainsaws I use my tractor's rear rim, jack up the tractor rear tire then tie the tank to the rear tire/rim using a pad such as piece of old carpet or throw rug, fill the tank with nuts/bolts little bit of gas or even just water.
For a chainsaw I remove the bar, plug the tank vent, if the vent is in the cap just use thin plastic under the cap, tie/strap the tank so as it can be drained/flushed and refilled in place. Start the tractor and let the slow rotating wheel do the tumbling while I go do other things.
Works really good for nasty sticky and rusty tanks.
If a old NLA tank has pin hones I do the same then use the Red Kote gas tank liner after the tank is clean.

 

[scotiansaw]

Here is what the inside of the tank looks like for informational purposes.

View attachment 1231757

How difficult is it to a split the cases? I feel mine is leaking between the two tanks. A good 70ml of thick black oil came out when I drained the tank, and wondering if the manual oiler is presurizing the oil tank causing it to flow into the fuel tank. Thanks

 

[Agrarian]

fill the tank with nuts/bolts little bit of gas or even just water.

I've also heard that aquarium gravel works well. You might try isopropyl alcohol - HD has it by the gallon and oddly call it Fuel.

 

[Okie]

How difficult is it to a split the cases? I feel mine is leaking between the two tanks. A good 70ml of thick black oil came out when I drained the tank, and wondering if the manual oiler is presurizing the oil tank causing it to flow into the fuel tank. Thanks

Just my thoughts about your question. Parts for some saws are like trying to find good hens teeth. (very rare)
I'm not that familiar with your saw about splitting the tanks that you asked about, but I would probably try to do a pressure test between the tanks BEFORE doing a split. With some thought you should be able to rig a pressure test of not over 5 lbs between each tank and watch for air bubbles if one tank is full of water and the other has air pressure. and then vice versa.
Oil most generally does not flow one way and gas would also be going into the oil tank. Also before doing such I would see if gaskets are readily available for resealing the tanks.
Also normally a manually oiler pumps oil towards the bar and does not pressurize the tank.

 

[snobdds]

How difficult is it to a split the cases? I feel mine is leaking between the two tanks. A good 70ml of thick black oil came out when I drained the tank, and wondering if the manual oiler is presurizing the oil tank causing it to flow into the fuel tank. Thanks

I'm not sure. That is a picture that I found while rebuilding my 2100. My manual oiler was not working and I believe it was the hose in the tank that ran from the manual pump to the barb supplying the oil pump. I was considering splitting it open, but there was no consensus on how to seal it back up. Husky did not use a gasket and bolts to seal it, it was some sort of welding process.

I don't think anyone has successfully open and resealed a 2100 tank.

 

[Gord404]

on the end of your hand pump in the tank there should be a flat sided O ring, so pull your hand pump and see if it's rotted or missing- it is what keeps your oil and gas separate

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

How difficult is it to a split the cases? I feel mine is leaking between the two tanks. A good 70ml of thick black oil came out when I drained the tank, and wondering if the manual oiler is presurizing the oil tank causing it to flow into the fuel tank. Thanks

Forget ANY notion of trying to split this era Husqvarna tank- IF you manage to get it apart in two perfect halves without damage and attempt to get it back together- you will very likely fail. Most everything has been tried before- and failed.
You have one very good experienced reply from Gord404- manual pump is where you want to start investigating.