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I have an overheated 2152 and purchased a 346 piston/cylinder for it. Other than obviously readjusting the carb, what other differences set them apart. Would I be wise to replace crank seals as a matter of course or just leave them be. I have no reason to think it was leaking, it was run exterior dull and not properly cleaned for too long. (Not mine until it started acting up)
 
I would want to know why the other topend melted down.

Was it the old plastic intake clamp that was updated to metal one? Known issue and comes loose to make a air leak.
But if plastic intake clamp still on there replace that crap.

Was air leak somewhere else? Set up and test.

Was it just bad tune or old mix problem.
 

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I would want to know why the other topend melted down.

Was it the old plastic intake clamp that was updated to metal one? Known issue and comes loose to make a air leak.
But if plastic intake clamp still on there replace that crap.

Was air leak someone else? Set up and test.

Was it just bad tune or old mix problem.
Old gas is a possibility, it was run extremely dull for quite a long time, one of those people who doesn’t own a file but takes the chain in every couple years for a sharpening. The cylinder is just caked with sawdust and it has low compression, maybe 115, it belonged to an older friend of mine, I was repairing his wood splitter for the 15th time and he asked me about it. I suggested he take to to the local shop, after a quick peek into the exhaust port he (the dealer) advised it was probably not worth fixing. My friend bought a new 450? Rancher and I inherited the Jonsered.
I saw a video of him, taken by his daughter, cutting a tree in his yard, it was pretty painful to watch I could feel the poor little saw begging for mercy. The video was taken just before it started “losing power”
 
You are playing the guessing game of assumption.
Could be one of many things or a combination of things took the top end out.
If the shop saw the scoring on the piston via the exhaust port- probably more air leak than heat related- heat often takes out the piston just to the right (as viewed from the rear of the saw) of the port.
You need to verify 100% what went on, correct it and fit the other top end, by testing what you have- or run the very real chance of doing it all over again in a tank or two of fuel.
2152 is the Jonsered equivalent of a 353XP. Same 353 cylinder (bolt on transfer covers) was used in the last of the Husqvarna 350 plastic cased saws with a dished piston to lower performance. One of those cylinders with a new flat top piston gets you back to 353/2152.
 
To add to Bob's comments, the 346XP cylinder is a bolt on replacement for the 350/351/353 cylinder (& their Jonsered counterparts). Assuming your 346 cylinder is OEM it has the best porting of the lot & a NE cylinder (being 50cc rather than the original 45cc) will make the most power of any of them.
Doing a pressure & vac test is really a must after a cylinder replacement
 
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