222/252 vermeer cutter wheel adjustment

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

lbj

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2008
Messages
68
Reaction score
6
Location
woodbine,md
i have a 222 with a 252 cutter wheel whith a 25 hp motor just did the v-belt conversion no more polychain when the dealer tightens my belt has a tape measure i have adjusted my own belt before but i do want to do it right not sure if i do it wrong it could cause bearings to go out faster not sure what the tape is for. thanks for any info
 
Can't respond to tightening a vbelt for the cutter wheel belt. Not sure why you converted. I've got over 3000 hours on my 252 with factory setup. Last cutter wheel belt got over 800 hours. Belts are about $35 bucks, what's not to like???

The only time I started going through belts is when the upper sheave, the smaller one, was worn real bad, that was about at 1800 hours. The problem is that the inner ribs get worn down and don't grip the belt. So you have to check to see if they are the same height as the two outer (thicker) edges of the sheave, or pulley. Just place a straightedge and check. If they're much below the outer ones replace it, about $75 if I remember right.

Important thing about tensioning the belt is alignment of upper and lower sheaves, or pulleys. Place a long straightedge, I use the belt cover plate along the sides of the two sheaves and see if they are flat against the straightedge, if not adjust their position on the shaft(s) to line them up. Also make sure the jackshaft is parallel to the cutter shaft. I just make sure the jackshaft is square to the boom it's mounted on, or check the space in the slot for the mounting bolts, make sure each side has same gap.

Belt tension I do by hand. Tighten so that you feel some resistance when turning the wheel by hand. Take it out and grind. If belt squeals at all adjust perhaps a 1/2 turn, that's all. You'll find the best tension for the belt is just beyond the slipping/squealing point. Easiest on the bearings too. Adjusting the belt is so simple that it can be done in less than 5 minutes. Don't bother taking off the cover and such, just loosen the jackshaft bearing bolts, one side is all that's needed, turn 1/2 turn on adjustment bolt, tighten back up. Once a new belt is installed and broken in I adjust belt about every 50 hours, that's it, so simple.

Same principle could be followed with the vbelts you installed. Have fun!

Stumper63
 
When you tighten the cutter belt it brings the other bearings out of alignment. Could someone please explain how to adjust everything correctly? I just got mine and need a new cutter belt. It seems that you open a can of worms when you adjust the tension on the cutter belt. I am considering doing this myself because the vermeer dealership is 1-2 hours away including traffic. Or is it worth driving to the dealer?
 
It's not a problem for the bearings, they are mounted in pillow blocks that pivot a little as you adjust the tension of the belts. My post above says just about everything about tensioning the cutter belt. One little trick that I do to address your specific question is that I bring the jackshaft just a little out of parallel with the cutter wheel shaft, so the end of the jackshaft that you adjust the cutter wheel tension with is a little closer to the cutter wheel, maybe an 1/8" or so out of parallel. Then as you adjust the cutter wheel belt over time it gets to parallel then a little past by time belt is cooked.
So make sure you always adjust the cutter wheel belt first, making sure the pulleys are aligned, then tension jackshaft belt by sliding engine.

The difference in bearing alignment as you adjust the cutter wheel belt over time never has caused any undue belt misalignment for me as long as you start out close to parallel you'll be fine for the life of the belts.

Hope this helps a little,

Stumper63
 
... Adjusting the belt is so simple that it can be done in less than 5 minutes. Don't bother taking off the cover and such, just loosen the jackshaft bearing bolts, one side is all that's needed, turn 1/2 turn on adjustment bolt, tighten back up. Once a new belt is installed and broken in I adjust belt about every 50 hours, that's it, so simple...


Stumper63


I just have to revive this interesting thread, as I'm sure others are interested in this too.

First I want to thank Stumper63 for all the great information he spreaded in this wonderful Forum.

Just this one Question:

Stumper63, I'm regarding the little trick you do and the half turn of the adjusting screw.

So when doing that quick adjustment for the cutter wheel belt, you don't readjust the the other belt from engine to the jackshaft?
Or is the half turn procedure always followed by readjusting the jackshaft belt?

Sorry for my poor english.

Many thanks and regards
Marne
 
Correct, no need to adjust the belt from engine to jackshaft, unless of course it is really loose. My experience is that belt rarely needs tightening compared to the cutter wheel belt.
Anyway, when you tighten the cutter wheel belt as described above you are actually tightening the jackshaft belt a little too since the jackshaft is actually pivoting on the bearing you did not loosen, so it's moving that sheave a little farther away from the engine, thus tightening jackshaft belt a little.

Have fun,

Stumper63
 
Back
Top