24" Bar comparison - stihl cannon tsumura sugihara

[cary911]

light weight

 

[redbull660]

Since re-reading this thread i have a few questions.
1) Did Red Bull ever test the 36" tsumura LW vs the 36 Cannon narrow nose?
2) can you put a feeler gauge in the bar grooves with a chain, I'd sure like to know clearance on the Stihl, and Tsumura. I saw someone said earlier that the cannon had 0.002-0.003" clearance and Oregon bars had 0.005-0.006" clearance on the sides.

I did. time wise they are basically identical. I think the tsumura oils slightly better.

I don't have one.

 

[CoreyB]

After a year of use on my 20" tsumara I didn't hesitate to get another and if opportunity arises I would pick up another in a heart beat. I would like to try a cannon and sugi though. for .325 bars I am liking the new Oregon speedcut. just got a new 20" in today at the shop.

 

[MustangMike]

I just found my #s. A 20" Sugi is 2 lb 3.1 oz. A 20" Stihl Rollomatic E bar is 2 lb 4.6 oz. The difference is only 1.5 oz! The Stihl ES bar is MUCH heavier. (Note: all Stihl mount, 3/8 .050)

At half the price of the Sugi, the Stihl is a steal! I have also found them to have very good durability.

 

[Ryan'smilling]

I just found my #s. A 20" Sugi is 2 lb 3.1 oz. A 20" Stihl Rollomatic E bar is 2 lb 4.6 oz. The difference is only 1.5 oz! The Stihl ES bar is MUCH heavier. (Note: all Stihl mount, 3/8 .050)

At half the price of the Sugi, the Stihl is a steal! I have also found them to have very good durability.

Good to know. I wonder what a Total light and tough is. I agree about the price on the E bars. For a lightweight bar, they're very inexpensive. I suppose the problem would be if you pinch or bend the tip. Then you wrecked the bar, whereas a Sugi or ES is repairable.

 

[redbull660]

http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...omparison-tests-measurements-pictures.293794/

 

[SawTroll]

So does my stock sprocket work with either .050 or .063? Essentially would all I need be a new bar and chains? because I am getting ready to buy a bunch of that stuff.

Yes, drive sprockets, either rim or spur will run any of the common gauges. Who knows, now that i say that there's probably some exception that I don't know about, but in general anyway, that's the case.

True, as long as 3/8" Picco/lo-pro isn't involved, and the sprockets are in reasonably good shape.

People tend to use the sprockets longer than they are designed for though, so it is advisable to take a close look at them before using them with a new bar and/or chains, regardless of gauge. Sprocket rims usually are cheap compared to the other stuff.

 

[MustangMike]

Good info there Redbull, but there are no 20" Stihl E bars in your test. The ES bars are a lot heavier. Your results indicate the premium bars are much lighter than Stihl bars, when in fact only the Sugi bar seems to be lighter than an E bar, and that by only 1.5 oz. (Note my 20" bars are .050, most of yours are .063).

Ryan, the Still E bars have held up very well for me, and after you factor the cost of a new tip, you could likely get at least 2 Stihl E bars for the same money. Much easier to change a bar than replace a riveted tip. Also, I don't think a replaceable tip is necessary on a 20" bar.

The only time I ruined a tip is when I ran used motor oil instead of real bar oil, and I don't do that any more.

 

[MustangMike]

Redbull's data shows the weight of a Stihl 20" ES .050 bar at 2 lb 13.5 oz. My Stihl 20" E bar .050 is 2 lbs 4.3 oz. That is a 9.2 oz difference, more than 1/2 lb right off the front of your saw.

In the local saw shop I hefted both a 362 Ver I and a Ver II, both with 20" ES B&C, and they were both a LOT more front heavy than my saw, I would not enjoy limbing with them. The lighter E bar makes a big difference.

 

[Unionvillecountryboy]

Yea, but laminated bars aren't as cool

 

[MustangMike]

Yea, but laminated bars aren't as cool

I've done a lot of work with them in 20" and 24" w/o any problems at all, even some milling. Disappointed they don't seem to be selling the 24" any more, it was a "yellow bar", but all my 20s are "green".

 

[Unionvillecountryboy]

I've got a brand new 24" E bar I was thinking about posting.

 

[MustangMike]

If I didn't have 2 already, I'd be interested, but with 2 E bars and a ES wide nose, I think I got 24" covered for a while.

 

[Andyshine77]

When it comes to bars 20" or less, lightweight pro bars are really not worth the added cost. I also prefer the good quality laminated bars in those lengths.

All my 50cc saws have laminated bars, the big heavy replaceable tip bars can kill a saws balance. I have a 20" Sugi on my 562 and it balances ok, but I think a nice laminated bar might be the ticket.

Those replaceable sprockets are big and heavy, they add weight in just the wrong place.

 

[SawTroll]

I've done a lot of work with them in 20" and 24" w/o any problems at all, even some milling. Disappointed they don't seem to be selling the 24" any more, it was a "yellow bar", but all my 20s are "green".

As it has looked to me, the availability (or just the listing/advertising) of the 24/25" one "always" have been spotty - so I wouldn't be surprised if they are available at some level in the distribution chain.

There wouldn't be anything unique with that.

 

[SawTroll]

When it comes to bars 20" or less, lightweight pro bars are really not worth the added cost. I also prefer the good quality laminated bars in those lengths.

All my 50cc saws have laminated bars, the big heavy replaceable tip bars can kill a saws balance. I have a 20" Sugi on my 562 and it balances ok, but I think a nice laminated bar might be the ticket.

Those replaceable sprockets are big and heavy, they add weight in just the wrong place.

I agree with most of that - and as most of my bars are shorter than 20", most of them are laminated.