24" bar for homemade electrical sawmill

[Czech_Made]

Seems like the first bar is used up and I need to replace it.

I got it as combo - ripping chain and husky 24" forester bar.

Now I have three ripping chains and looking for a bar.

Any recommendation? The mill holds the bar just like chainsaw, the end is stabilized by magnet.

Should I go solid steel, oregon, husqvarna? too many options out there.

 

[BobL]

What do you mean by used up? Insufficient groove left?

 

[Czech_Made]

The bar is digging in. I pull the head with a winch and at about 16 inches into the log the bar bends down enough to pop of the magnet holding the sprocket end. I tried different things - like pushing the head by hand, eleminating play between the head and the guide beam. The only thing that worked was to push it backwards, ie cutting on the other side of the bar. I always rotated the bar with everyfresh chain, but pushing it backwards uses the other rail side to be the top.

I believe that the rail face is worn out and the chain does not sit square and instead points down. I measured the bar, the center where most of the cutting is done was few tenth of mm thicker than the end of the bar. I closed it back as well as I could but it did not help.

Hard to explain I am afraid, thank you, Bob, for any ideas,

 

[kimosawboy]

Check that your bar plate is on good shape...
Also check that your chain is sharpened the same on each side, just a tad more or less on one side will get your bar diving...
When I was spacing many moons ago we had a stump height of 2"-3", needless to say everyone would rock their chain on the one side. By the time we had to replace the chain , one side would have 50% of the teeth left with the other side having virtually none... trying to use one of these chains to try to cut firewood was a lousy idea as the cut would never be perpendicular to the log..
Good luck
G Vavra

 

[Czech_Made]

Thank you. I measured the length of cutting teeth and it is within 0.1 mm.

 

[BobL]

The bar is digging in. I pull the head with a winch and at about 16 inches into the log the bar bends down enough to pop of the magnet holding the sprocket end. I tried different things - like pushing the head by hand, eleminating play between the head and the guide beam. The only thing that worked was to push it backwards, ie cutting on the other side of the bar. I always rotated the bar with everyfresh chain, but pushing it backwards uses the other rail side to be the top.

I believe that the rail face is worn out and the chain does not sit square and instead points down. I measured the bar, the center where most of the cutting is done was few tenth of mm thicker than the end of the bar. I closed it back as well as I could but it did not help.

Hard to explain I am afraid, thank you, Bob, for any ideas,

Yep sounds like the groove has opened up or worn on one side so the chain tilts over in the cut.
The bar groove just needs to be closed up and the tops of the rails dressed square a bit like this picture
BTW it should be closed before it is dressed aquaria.



The tool used is a bar rail closer like this - this is one I made a few years ago.

 

[Czech_Made]

Thank you for the pictures. I took a machinist square to it and sure enough, the side of the rail that was always on top cutting is protruding further than the "bottom" one. I could use a milling machine to square it or is it overkill and hand file will do?

I will safe some money by bringing this bar back to life - but back to the original question. What 24" bar should I buy for my mill? Just stick to the cheapest since there is not much difference?

 

[BobL]

Thank you for the pictures. I took a machinist square to it and sure enough, the side of the rail that was always on top cutting is protruding further than the "bottom" one. I could use a milling machine to square it or is it overkill and hand file will do?

There are many ways to do this. A metal mill may not be so easy because you will have to follow a complex curve along the bar.
One way I have done this is to fit a thick cutting wheel to a table saw and run the bar alongside the spinning wheel. The table holds the bar at 90º to the wheel which is handy.
A file (preferably a new one) will also do the job. Put the bar into a vice and use a draw filing technique. Hold both ends of the file with your hands pull the file towards you.
If you are careful you can hold it square enough.

I also made a tool to hold the file square.

 

[SeMoTony]

There are many ways to do this. A metal mill may not be so easy because you will have to follow a complex curve along the bar.
One way I have done this is to fit a thick cutting wheel to a table saw and run the bar alongside the spinning wheel. The table holds the bar at 90º to the wheel which is handy.
A file (preferably a new one) will also do the job. Put the bar into a vice and use a draw filing technique. Hold both ends of the file with your hands pull the file towards you.
If you are careful you can hold it square enough.

I also made a tool to hold the file square.
View attachment 555347

Bob you have advanced your inherent mechanical skills into art works which exemplify the mental acuity with which you have freely shared with us mere human beings. Oh yea just Thanks

 

[SeMoTony]

Thank you for the pictures. I took a machinist square to it and sure enough, the side of the rail that was always on top cutting is protruding further than the "bottom" one. I could use a milling machine to square it or is it overkill and hand file will do?

I will safe some money by bringing this bar back to life - but back to the original question. What 24" bar should I buy for my mill? Just stick to the cheapest since there is not much difference?

There is a noticeable difference between mass produced and hand made.A 59" ES Stihl bar is not as stiff as a Canon 60" IMHO and physical handling ofeach one. The Stihl is on an 880 ,the canon is in my avatar & has been used on an alaskan mill. I won't trust an ES (extra sloppy) of any length as I do canon .
A24" bar may seem as tough as any other ,I mill no shorter than 32" bars and stay with the name brands to avoid wasting my time and logs. That may just be me. Hopeyou stay safe and enjoy!

 

[Philbert]

Photos always help - of your bar and your mill!

There is no reason to go with a lightweight bar, since you are not holding the saw. I would go for durability first, and then consider cost (bars are a consumable item).

Philbert

 

[BobL]

Bob you have advanced your inherent mechanical skills into art works which exemplify the mental acuity with which you have freely shared with us mere human beings. Oh yea just Thanks

Sounds a bit philosophical for these forums . . . . nevertheless I will say thanks.
You'd laugh if you found out how I made the file holder.
All the Al was cut with a wood working table saw. The handle was shaped by drilling holes in Al plate with a Forstner bit in a drill press and the the holes were connected with a WW bandsaw and then it came down to a handful and a Dremel.

 

[Czech_Made]

Yesterday in a meeting I sketched file holder that worked pretty much the same except for the fancy handle Nice tool, btw. Anybody dreams about wood milling in his bill-paying-job?

Yes, Bob, you are correct, the bar has a curve, not worth it messing with it on a milling machine. I had to take it to a belt sander, the bar was pretty bad, I will make a file holder and keep the bar squared from now on.

I feel very lucky I am able to ask an expert. Thank you, Bob!

 

[Czech_Made]

Photos always help - of your bar and your mill!

There is no reason to go with a lightweight bar, since you are not holding the saw. I would go for durability first, and then consider cost (bars are a consumable item).

Philbert

Crappy picture, I need to take a better one.

 

[Czech_Made]

better pictures