260 Suspension Question

[Bigbob]

Hi folks! I'm still fiddling wiht getting my ebay 260 up and running. I have a parts question.

Does the front tank suspenision (just under the muffler) take a rubber buffer on one side and a metal spring on the other? If so, what is the correct name and part number for the spring. Can I buy a similiar size spring from my local Ace hardware store? If so, what is the size?

I have the annular buffer number 1121 790 9903 but it looks like teh saw needs a metal spring on the oppostie side.


Thanks,

Robert

 

[bcorradi]

No it just uses a rubber buffer on the barside. There is also a small pinlike piece that is cast into the crankcase on the recoil side for the front/tail of the gas tank handle to go into.

The whole suspension/av system of the 026/MS260 consists of only the two rubber buffers on the bar side along with the upper tank av mount located on the recoil side.

 

[Bigbob]

Photo?

Can somebody please post an image of the suspension system of the 260. I fear my tank/handle is damage and the suspesion is floating on just 2 buffers and one top mount.

Thanks

Robert

 

[bcorradi]

Here is a description of the pics.

1) Top Mount - Shows the top AV mount that fastens the top of the gas tank to the crankcase on the flywheel side. In order to get access to this you will need to remove the top cover/shroud. This mount rarely goes bad.
2) Bottom of crankcase - Shows the two rubber buffers
3) Bottom Pin - Shows the pin where the tail of the gas tank rests on the flywheel side.
4) Clutch side - Shows where you access the two rubber buffers. In order to get access to the buffers themselves you will need to pop off the plastic plug on the left mount and remove the chain catcher and plug on the right mount. The innerguide plate will also have to be removed before removing the chain catcher & plug.

In my experience the mount that goes bad most often is the front mount that is located under the chain catcher. If you detect a mount is bad. you will need to push the mount back up towards the bar side of the saw to remove it.

 

[Bigbob]

Clarify?

So the cast pin does not actually touch the platic gas tank, right?

 

[Lakeside53]

right!

 

[Bigbob]

right!

I can't tell you how much I appreciate this site and all the expert advise. My little project is coming together.

One more (im sure many more to follow) question: Is there a nifty trick for getting the chain brake main spring back on besides hiring a thug?

I've tried pulling it wiht pliers, leveraging with a screw driver and no avail.

thanks,

Robert (Bigbob)

 

[bcorradi]

LOL...you will be able to position a flatblade screwdriver in the last coil and than position it on the mounting pin while pulling the spring back. Move the chainbrake so the lever (that the right side of the spring mounts to) is in the furthest back position.

 

[Bigbob]

LOL...you will be able to position a flatblade screwdriver in the last coil and than position it on the mounting pin while pulling the spring back. Move the chainbrake so the lever (that the right side of the spring mounts to) is in the furthest back position.

Are you "Laughing out Loud" or calling me a "loser on line"???

He he, I feel like a loser having to ask the question. But, I know you folks have done this thousands of times and your so quick at responding. Why should I frustrate myself when I can just ask, wait a few minutes and do it the right way.

Thanks again.

Robert

 

[bcorradi]

Just laughing at your thug comment. Hopefully your able to get the spring on.

 

[Bigbob]

Suspension Help

Ok, got the spring on. I had the linkage on backwards which added an extra 1/2 to the spring length. Duh!

The saw is back together now. I'm trying to adjust the carb by feel. The L is backed out 1 1/8 turn and the Idle is adjusted so the chain doesn't spin. It idles rough and sometimes stalls. Any ideas?

Also, the front suspension rubber bushing keeps pulling all the way through the hole. Its missing the white cap. Is that all I need to keep the bushing from pulling through the hole?

Thanks in advance,
Robert

 

[Bigbob]

Got it

Ok, I see from the photos above taht the bushing is missing the white cap and the chain catch and nut.

Can somebody please post the part names and numbers so I can order them?

thanks a million.

Robert

 

[bcorradi]

I do not have the part #'s off hand, but even without the plastic plug and chain catcher it should be able to come out very easily. It is firmly friction fit if the bushing is properly seated. When you get the pieces (plastic plug/anchor and chain catchor) make sure the rubber bushing is countersunk about an 1/8" below the crankcase so the plastic plug/anchor ends up being flush with the crankcase.

 

[Bigbob]

I do not have the part #'s off hand, but even without the plastic plug and chain catcher it should be able to come out very easily. It is firmly friction fit if the bushing is properly seated. When you get the pieces (plastic plug/anchor and chain catchor) make sure the rubber bushing is countersunk about an 1/8" below the crankcase so the plastic plug/anchor ends up being flush with the crankcase.

Heres a photo. You can see the bushing has pulled through and the tank/handle is racked all the way over to the side. The bushing is brand new.

Also the new compression level with new rings and a hand honed cylinder is 146psi. Will that increase once the seat and are broken in?

Any thoughts?

Robert

 

[beelsr]

Also the new compression level with new rings and a hand honed cylinder is 146psi. Will that increase once the seat and are broken in?

Yes. Check it again after 5-6 tanks. Some people idle a tank (some with 40:1 as well) through the engine after redoing the top end.