262XP Day

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Did you time the ports or are these just visual observations? It would be interesting to know the results.

I've only ported maybe 10 262. Moobs would know more.

As for the intake port, I'd say it's tough for it to be wider because the threaded holes for the carb mounts are in the same place. Easy to grind through for sure. I've measured the intake port and found that's there is no need to widen it at all, I just drop the floor a bit. There is already more area to the inner port opening than the outer port opening or the 87 Venturi. The floor always winds up around 73-74 after the machine work on every jug I've done. Stock, all have been 71, no gasket.

Exhaust port, I've never noticed a difference. The piston has skirts a mile long. I can't remember if the piston crown drops below the exhaust port at BDC right now. I'm pretty sure it doesn't, because one could lower the floor if it did and I never was tempted to do so.

Everyone says that the KS transfers are wider and bigger than the Mahle. I'm not so sure if it's actually true or not. The KS jugs I've been around (all model including Stihl) are a harder and brighter/less staining aluminum alloy. Many times it looks like the ports are bigger, but the brightness of the alloy created an illusion for me. They were the same. The KS just stain less.

The only 262 I've been around that has very wide external transfer tunnels was the Mahle Decomp that I used in the Christmas saw. It needed to be clearanced externally to miss the flywheel.

Wish I had more for you guys. Pretty sure I have a Mahle decomp and a KS here that I can take pics of.

I've only seen a couple of 262XP jugs that were really different. I can't recall the real differences though Al.
 
just read this whole post from page 1 awesome , i have a 1991 262 with original KS jug /piston and HDA 87 and a 1993 original Mahle with decomp and HDA 120 . i spent a fair bit of time rebuilding the 1991 saw , inlet block, new gaskets / carb kit /crank seals /new ring/ fuel line / rubber mounts and little scotchbrite on the cyl although it was almost like new , runs really well but seems to be a tad off kilter now and again, so it might be the carb kit issue as was posted about the diaphragm kit , i,ll pull it apart and see what i did . would like to do a bit of porting on it too but i dont think i,ll do all the timing wheel stuff ,MMWS would be nice to just get measurements of the ports i dont think i,ll attempt the finger port mods tho but how much thou raised / lowered or lowered on transfers/exhaust ?and it has the 25 though gasket i think on it so might do a squish test on it and see what it is , then maybe do a base gasket delete and 3 bond it if its still above 20 thou squish , even side by side its not much slower that my 562 , but would be fun to have a play with it
 
just read this whole post from page 1 awesome , i have a 1991 262 with original KS jug /piston and HDA 87 and a 1994 original Mahle with decomp and HDA 120 . i spent a fair bit of time rebuilding the 1991 saw , inlet block, new gaskets / carb kit /crank seals /new ring/ fuel line / rubber mounts and little scotchbrite on the cyl although it was almost like new , runs really well but seems to be a tad off kilter now and again, so it might be the carb kit issue as was posted about the diaphragm kit , i,ll pull it apart and see what i did . would like to do a bit of porting on it too but i dont think i,ll do all the timing wheel stuff ,MMWS would be nice to just get measurements of the ports i dont think i,ll attempt the finger port mods tho but how much thou raised / lowered or lowered on transfers/exhaust ?and it has the 25 though gasket i think on it so might do a squish test on it and see what it is , then maybe do a base gasket delete and 3 bond it if its still above 20 thou squish , even side by side its not much slower that my 562 , but would be fun to have a play with it

Hi Roy,
First off I have yet to see one not too tight with a base gasket delete. These saws tend to be about .08-.012 when deleted. If you have an old piston you can glue some sand paper on and get it back to as safe number. Or make your own gasket that is thinner than stock. Roof flashing was perfect on one I did.
As far as porting, if you don't want to degree Wheel it, if you can measure accurately there is software that can tell you your numbers and how much to grind to reach your goals.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hi Roy,
First off I have yet to see one not too tight with a base gasket delete. These saws tend to be about .08-.012 when deleted. If you have an old piston you can glue some sand paper on and get it back to as safe number. Or make your own gasket that is thinner than stock. Roof flashing was perfect on one I did.
As far as porting, if you don't want to degree Wheel it, if you can measure accurately there is software that can tell you your numbers and how much to grind to reach your goals.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
thanks for that , i have an old 48m piston somewhere , thats a good idea if its a bit tight , i probably could do the degree wheel as i used to do valve timing on engines with them back in the day but seems complicated to figure it out , but i might try it but if i overdo it by mistake it might be not good , say i remove 1 mm of material , the timing might be way off or something thats whats worrying me , ive ported my 395 , going by measurements s i got somewhere and was much easier , pushed a ring in there , measured with my vernier , marked it with pen , then i had the dimensions , lowered the lower transfer 3mm did a little on the top transfers , removed the base gasket , widened the exhaust 1mm each side , raised it 20 thou and was all so easy compared to degree wheels but i'll see what numbers i get which are probably what MMWS posted way back , , do you know which software is easiest totry for it ?
 
If you use sandpaper just make sure you check where the walls meet the roof. It's easy to leave a bit in the corner. Al's trick with a wood chisel to scrape it out works well.
The software is here http://torqsoft.net/piston-position.html
You need to know stroke and rod length. Your measurements are from top of piston crown to each port. So you need to subtract your squish when measuring from the top of the chamber, or place something the thickness of your squish in the bore to measure off of.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
If you're using a meteor vs oem, I've seen as much as .008 difference in crown height, with the meteor being the taller of the two. This may account for some of the differences in squish. I've found that mine with Meteor are usually what Dan said. .009-.011.
 
If you use sandpaper just make sure you check where the walls meet the roof. It's easy to leave a bit in the corner. Al's trick with a wood chisel to scrape it out works well.
The software is here http://torqsoft.net/piston-position.html
You need to know stroke and rod length. Your measurements are from top of piston crown to each port. So you need to subtract your squish when measuring from the top of the chamber, or place something the thickness of your squish in the bore to measure off of.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
ok thanks , i,ll do some measurements when i'm on it again , doin a couple of things to the 266 first as its apart now
 
Old thread. I know. But I stumbled on this one today for $300 Canadian...which is about $14 USD right now. Ouch.

1990 262XP. Not quite a “you suck” price. But I think I did good!

Came with 18” 3/8”. I can still see the machining marks on the piston! Stock form. Not muffler mod or porting...yet
 

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I was looking at that same saw. With shipping it was going to cost more than I would spend, but I figured it would be a good score for someone local to Thunder Bay.

Congrats! :cheers:

Thank you!

The seller mentioned someone in Sudbury. Must have been you? Trust me, this saw is going to a good home.
 
I been hooked on these series of saws from the 162, 262, 372, 266, 268. I figure to port a 162 and keep it for a small saw.
 
Thank you!

The seller mentioned someone in Sudbury. Must have been you? Trust me, this saw is going to a good home.
Actually I am in Belleville, so there must have been guys looking at it. It's nice to see someone get it that actually knows what he has. According to the serial number, that's a pretty early production saw!
 
I try and keep an assortment of parts for these saws around, one of my all time favorite saws, I had as many as 6x HDA 87, sold one yesterday to fund another project so I am down to 4 now I think, these saws make nice gains with a few simple mods or send for porting and they really come to life, I have 3 ported counting the one my dad runs and they are just a pleasure to run and work on, just a shame saws can't still be built this simple any more.
 
Actually I am in Belleville, so there must have been guys looking at it. It's nice to see someone get it that actually knows what he has. According to the serial number, that's a pretty early production saw!

The seller said his phone was ringing off the hook! I showed him the 87 carb and explained it is a VERY sought after saw.

7th week of 1990 makes it one of the earliest saws. I've only ever heard of a 26th week 1989 from @SawTroll
 
I try and keep an assortment of parts for these saws around, one of my all time favorite saws, I had as many as 6x HDA 87, sold one yesterday to fund another project so I am down to 4 now I think, these saws make nice gains with a few simple mods or send for porting and they really come to life, I have 3 ported counting the one my dad runs and they are just a pleasure to run and work on, just a shame saws can't still be built this simple any more.

You don't happen to have a starter decal? Or a starter with a decal? I'll trade ;)
 

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