266 refurb, questions in general

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Gotta really thank y'all.

I ran the 266 the other day. Ran a full tank through her in one shot, the most she has been run since I put her back together. Anyway, this saw runs better each time I run it. The saw is a great size for general firework and cutting. I used her the other day for slashing saplings and fallen trees to clear a section of woods. It is a pleasure to drive this saw. Throttle response is nice. I finally got the muffler put back with a little homemade scoop on the outside. Saw is of course loud, but I like that. Great power for it's size.

@ballisticdoughnut
@Woodslasher
@Squareground3691
@HumBurner
@president
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@Lightning Performance

Saw is now also a movie star...featured on my website.
There great saws,
 
Got the muffler scooped a bit, I actually think it runs better with the scoop than before when it was wide open. At least I got the exhaust going more frontward than sideward. Scoop is a little rough, but it works. I intended to braze something, but could not justify the torch and gas costs.
 

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Few more shots of her.

I have no need of any newer saws with this baby around.

Balances nice with the 20" total super.
Full wrap sits a little further forward on the saw. Nice balance that way.

She sports a couple of new aftermarket decals. They help spruce her up.
 

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Got the muffler scooped a bit, I actually think it runs better with the scoop than before when it was wide open. At least I got the exhaust going more frontward than sideward. Scoop is a little rough, but it works. I intended to braze something, but could not justify the torch and gas costs.
You don’t want a huge opening, you lose back pressure, that’s not good , you want some deflection of air beforehand of existing,
 
You don’t want a huge opening, you lose back pressure, that’s not good , you want some deflection of air beforehand of existing,

Yes, the scoop reduced the size of the opening a tad bit. I am sure back pressure was increased slightly. I like how it works.

Muffler previously looked like the pic below, except screws shown were also removed so the OEM scoop was also removed. Hole was huge and right out the side. Wow it was loud.
 

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Few more shots of her.

I have no need of any newer saws with this baby around.

Balances nice with the 20" total super.
Full wrap sits a little further forward on the saw. Nice balance that way.

She sports a couple of new aftermarket decals. They help spruce her up.
I own a 266xp Husqvarna from Slavaina assembled by Tomos scooter factory! 1986 and I would put that saw up against any new saw in its size cadagory. I put a carburetor off of a 272K demo saw on it and drilled a few holes in the exaust pipe and that was the ticket! I'm happier than a ****** in a candy store with this chainsaw! I have a 61 300th anniversary edition on my bench right now and putting the 272 piston and cylinder on it. I've heard good things about the bigger cylinder and piston on that saw! And I tell guys all the time that you need to go back about 25 years if you're going to find a saw that makes you happy with the power and the price. 😋
 
One of the photos shows my serial number. I think it is 1989 or 1988. Yes, I am pleasantly surprised with this era of saw. 1983 maybe even.
I believe that your saw is a 1983 from the numbers on your tag! And you have the metal chain break guard which was made of plastic after 1985 if memory serves me right? Mine is a 1986 and it has the plastic guard.
 
I believe that your saw is a 1983 from the numbers on your tag! And you have the metal chain break guard which was made of plastic after 1985 if memory serves me right? Mine is a 1986 and it has the plastic guard.
Believe your correct, 86 they switched to fine thread crank as well.
 
Sounds like you got everything you need. One thing about pistons and cylinders though. You’ll notice on the piston there’s a “A” stamped on top. The cylinder that came off the saw should also have a “A” stamped on the raised portion (top of cylinder) near the spark plug. Those are grade markings. The piston and cylinder must match. In other words, you don’t want to run a “A” piston in a “B” cylinder. This is how they set the clearance (piston to cylinder) from the factory. Reason I bring this up is your gonna want to check that spare cylinder for grade. If it’s A your good. If it’s B or C I’d be looking for a B or C piston to go with it.
One random question answered millions more to find lol.
 
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